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Installing crush washer


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Ok, ok... This may seem Duh! But does it matter how the crush washer is placed on the barrel of the AR15.

1. Should it go on with taper toward the receiver and the concave toward the muzzle?

2. Should the concave go toward the receiver and the taper toward the muzzle?

What is the best way to turn the muzzle brake to get it indexed correctly.

I'm put a Surefire muzzle brake on.

Don't laugh at me, you'll have an easy question someday the cramps your brain too.

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I put the taper toward the receiver, to tighten just find something you can stick through one of the ports and gives you some leverage, wrap it in a rag or some tape so you don't ding up the comp.

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Allows for perfect alignment with the least amount of shim possible. A better alternative to peel or crush washers IMO.

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrel-hardware/washers/ar-15-m16-ar-style-308-accu-washer-muzzle-device-alignment-system-prod54363.aspx

I use those extensively in my shop. They're kinda expensive if you're only going to use one though.

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The crush washer is fine with a Surefire muzzle device unless suppressor use/alignment is a factor. They also are self centering when you use them on barrel that has a relief cut before the shoulder. Shims and peel washer have a tendency to creep into the relief cut during installation.

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I feel it's bad practice to install a suppressor adapter with a crush washer even if the owner doesn't currently use it with a can. The owner may acquire a suppressor or sell the rifle. You have no control of this after it leaves your shop.

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Loctite on the break? Mine came loose at the last match.

Are you running a can? Loctite softens with heat, that's how you remove the red high strength stuff. Semi auto guns can get hot enough to soften the loctite. Rocksett resists the heat but that makes it a pain to remove. I wouldn't glue on a break unless I was screwing a can to it.

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