Szczinator Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Ok, ok... This may seem Duh! But does it matter how the crush washer is placed on the barrel of the AR15. 1. Should it go on with taper toward the receiver and the concave toward the muzzle? 2. Should the concave go toward the receiver and the taper toward the muzzle? What is the best way to turn the muzzle brake to get it indexed correctly. I'm put a Surefire muzzle brake on. Don't laugh at me, you'll have an easy question someday the cramps your brain too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I think the washer will work either way, index the comp as you screw it on, don't back off as the "crush washer" isn't a spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I put the taper toward the receiver, to tighten just find something you can stick through one of the ports and gives you some leverage, wrap it in a rag or some tape so you don't ding up the comp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szczinator Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Thanks guys, hope I don't break this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 All of the Surefire brakes I've installed have come with shim packs and Rockset, not crush washers. Are you sure you're using the correct part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamiltonarmory Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Tapered side toward the receiver, concave side toward the muzzle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoganbillJ Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Allows for perfect alignment with the least amount of shim possible. A better alternative to peel or crush washers IMO. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrel-hardware/washers/ar-15-m16-ar-style-308-accu-washer-muzzle-device-alignment-system-prod54363.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Allows for perfect alignment with the least amount of shim possible. A better alternative to peel or crush washers IMO. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrel-hardware/washers/ar-15-m16-ar-style-308-accu-washer-muzzle-device-alignment-system-prod54363.aspx I use those extensively in my shop. They're kinda expensive if you're only going to use one though. Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoganbillJ Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 As do I. After using them I don't think the cost is bad even if you only use one considering the amount of headache you save over timing with a peel washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gale Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 The crush washer is fine with a Surefire muzzle device unless suppressor use/alignment is a factor. They also are self centering when you use them on barrel that has a relief cut before the shoulder. Shims and peel washer have a tendency to creep into the relief cut during installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 I feel it's bad practice to install a suppressor adapter with a crush washer even if the owner doesn't currently use it with a can. The owner may acquire a suppressor or sell the rifle. You have no control of this after it leaves your shop. Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Loctite on the break? Mine came loose at the last match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Loctite on the break? Mine came loose at the last match. Are you running a can? Loctite softens with heat, that's how you remove the red high strength stuff. Semi auto guns can get hot enough to soften the loctite. Rocksett resists the heat but that makes it a pain to remove. I wouldn't glue on a break unless I was screwing a can to it. Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoganbillJ Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Proper torque is all that is necessary. If you need locktight your comp is not timed correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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