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1911 Trigger Job Question


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I searched but didn't find this particular question.

I just did my first 1911 trigger job using the Bob Marvel Hammer and Sear Jig, following the included instructions. The trigger passes all safety checks (except the grip safety, which I've disabled) but it keeps getting lighter. The first 5 pulls averaged 3lb 13oz. The next 5 were down to 3lb 11oz and the next 5 were down to 3lb 7oz. Is it just settling down or did I do something wrong? Is this gun safe or is it going to become unsafe?

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Dryfire it a bunch and then measure it. Colt sear springs seem to be the standard, but whatever you have in it shouldn't be a source of inconsistency unless it is rubbing somewhere that it shouldn't be. It's just wearing in the rough spots.

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  • 4 months later...

O.P. (or anybody for that matter).

Would like to purchase tools & instructions so I can start doing my own trigger jobs also. Any advice (e.g., buy this tool, by that dvd, run away run away give up on the notion entirely, etc.) from your experience would be appreciated.

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Brownell's has a good selection of sear jigs, stones, etc. and is probably the biggest go-to place for gunsmithing supplies. Might be good to look at the instruction manuals for the different jigs and some of their videos. If you just want to do the occasional trigger job thier basic sear jig works well and is reasonably priced. IMO - Getting a couple good stones (and using/caring for them properly) is more important than spending big bucks on a sear fixture to the casual DIY gunsmith.

BTW - if you buy from Brownells if you click on the BE brownells banner here it is a good thing for all: http://www.brianenos.com/store/brownells.html

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O.P. (or anybody for that matter).

Would like to purchase tools & instructions so I can start doing my own trigger jobs also. Any advice (e.g., buy this tool, by that dvd, run away run away give up on the notion entirely, etc.) from your experience would be appreciated.

I got interested in doing my own 1911 trigger work last year, and probably like you I thought I could do it all, what with all the tools and advice that are available.

The short answer is that I couldn't, not reliably.

After destroying a couple of perfectly good sears and hammers with stones, I settled on what works for me: installing good trigger kits. I can reliably take a Cylinder & Slide Tactical ii kit (for example) (http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=CS0212) install it in a 1911, and get good results. This allows the experts to do the stoning and fitting, all I need to do is fit the thumb safety to the sear, adjust the sear spring, and I'm done.

So, if you just want good triggers, I can recommend good kits. If you want to be a craftsman, there are others who can help you. I was humbled by the experience, and now have more respect for those who can actually use the trigger tools with good results.

Chris

Edited by cohland
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I have used the Ed Brown jig for years and it does a fine job. Comes with very easy to understand instructions, as I recall. (Haven't seen the instructions that came with mine for 15 years)

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With the quality of replacement parts immensely better than in the "old days" unless you are going to do a lot of trigger jobs, you are - IMHO - better off buying a hammer and sear and just learn how to adjust the sear spring. Way back you could not buy any decent parts and people/gunsmiths had to do a lot of things that are a waste of time and money today.

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The true radius sear jig is what I use with a hard arkansas stone. It works great.

I did get a trigger track stone from brownells.

Its relatively simple to get a great 1911 trigger with these tools, some care and a bit of research.

I've also used a couple EGW sears and they are fantastic but you can get a good trigger with even, for example, RIA stock parts.

Edited by twowheels
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