Glock trigger pull question and problem

[dskinsler83]

Something else I think will show you if you are on the edge of to little sear engagement is putting in a Stainless steel trigger housing pin. It hold the housing much more secure and can show things like that. But it also provides a more solid trigger

[dskinsler83]

He's describing a potential doubling or auto fire. The drop leg of the striker does not have enough engagement of the cruciform kick up or sear

That's what I thought but wanted to clarify.

The #1 thing I do not like about the Glock design is that it can very easily double or multiple fire if the trigger is "worked". The slide returns to battery with the trigger to the rear and the trigger bar "up" so the bump has the striker safety plunger in the UP (fire) position. If the striker tab can slip off the trigger bar hook (some call a sear) when the slide impacts the frame, you have an automatic weapon.

Every other major design (Beretta, SIG, SW, Browning HP, HK, SA XD) uses a pivoting lever safety design so that when it fires and the slide moves out of battery, the lifting plunger is released and the slide returns to battery with the FP safety in the SAFE position. The trigger must be fully released and repulled to lift the firing pin block out of the way. There's a reason EVERYBODY uses that design. It makes multiple fire events almost impossible.

While I understand completely what you are saying you are also describing many different actions all together there. Also in the Glock design when you move the trigger pad forward to allow the nose to reset to ride the connector shelf when by its design and angles pushes the bar down releasing the striker, sorry long breath. Anyways when you have an unaltered or correctly altered trigger when you move the trigger to reset it moves the tab enough to release the striker safety. It stays fully disengaged with the trigger held to the rear simply because in a sense it is a dead trigger all be it the bar has snapped back up to catch the striker when the slide moves to the rear. The doubling IS caused by the end user when they (not directed towards anyone here just saying in general but including myself) are searching for the ultimate trigger. GLOCK shooters fail to realize that as bad as they want a single action 2lb GLOCK trigger that it is soooo very difficult to obtain and maintain first and foremost the 3 safeties of the Glock Safe Action and 2nd just as important to us gamers is Reliability.

Trigger jobs in my opinion to reduce weight in a GLOCK that is for carry/home defense is simply asking for trouble in the judicial system if said GLOCK were ever used in a defensive situation. Those should only have OEM parts unaltered to assure safety, reliability and so some crooked lawyer can't say "well this guy made his gun more deadly and gave it a hair trigger" kinda the same principle of not reloading your carry ammunition but that is another story for another thread in the reloading section lol

[Red Ryder]

Just to be clear, I am not searching for the "Ultimate Glock trigger". Glock triggers will always suck comparatively speaking. I have shot Glocks with very nice triggers, not perfect by any means. I am just trying to move my stock trigger in that direction. What I realize is that you can't just change one or two parts to make the trigger better. You have to address all the appropriate parts. AND I understand that the enemy of Good, is Better.

[bountyhunter]

The doubling IS caused by the end user when they (not directed towards anyone here just saying in general but including myself) are searching for the ultimate trigger. GLOCK shooters fail to realize that as bad as they want a single action 2lb GLOCK trigger that it is soooo very difficult to obtain and maintain first and foremost the 3 safeties of the Glock Safe Action and 2nd just as important to us gamers is Reliability

I agree that a glock with stock components is reasonably reliable. I just think they cheaped out the design too much by eliminating the sear and not including what is probably the most important safety on an autoloading pistol. Just my opinion, and I wanted people to understand it is not a trigger system for the newbie to experiment on because he can get into real trouble.

And the "drop in" trigger kit I bought way back when for my G35 did not turn out to be drop in at all......

Edited January 27, 2014 by bountyhunter

[enroute]

Just to be clear, I am not searching for the "Ultimate Glock trigger". Glock triggers will always suck comparatively speaking. I have shot Glocks with very nice triggers, not perfect by any means. I am just trying to move my stock trigger in that direction. What I realize is that you can't just change one or two parts to make the trigger better. You have to address all the appropriate parts. AND I understand that the enemy of Good, is Better.

Meh, I've only been shooting Glocks a few years on duty and in competition, like many here I've got my factory armorer's certificate. For duty I cannot change anything of the parts, out of the pistol, except for Glock parts.

All of mine get the .25 cent trigger job, and lots of dry-firing. That's it. Oil in the right places, dry in the right places, and voila.

Improving the trigger towards it being a 1911-like performance is a tail wagging the dog exercise, IMO. It can certainly seem to be done, but that state of tune then seems to cause other liabilities like empty wallet syndrome.

Nothing can replace muscle memory, and nothing affordably replicates that like dry fire presentations.

[Red Ryder]

Ok now I am having light strikes on CCI primers with the lightened extended striker, 4.5 and 5 lb striker spring. I got pissed and put it all back to stock striker and stock striker spring. This definitely made the trigger heavier but I don't care. I can't stand when it doesn't go bang. I need reliability. A gun that is unreliable may as well be a paper weight, or a Taurus.

Edited February 10, 2014 by Red Ryder

[dskinsler83]

Ok now I am having light strikes on CCI primers with the lightened extended striker, 4.5 and 5 lb striker spring. I got pissed and put it all back to stock striker and stock striker spring. This definitely made the trigger heavier but I don't care. I can't stand when it doesn't go bang. I need reliability. A gun that is unreliable may as well be a paper weight, or a Taurus.

Are you seating those primers deep and hard? Primers for any striker fired pistol HAVE to be seated as deep as you can push them. I can't stress that enough. Also be sure the safety plunger is not putting drag or catching the striker any. I have been hearing a lot about light strikes with CCI lately and it could be a QC issue where everyone was trying to get primers out in a hurry. I never had issues with CCI until lately BUT I DO STRESS ALSO THAT IF YOU WANT A LITE TRIGGER IN A GLOCK YOU BETTER STOCK UP ON FEDERAL. If you are in the game to win then don't skimp on primers they are only a few dollars more and well worth it.

[JBP55]

I put 52,000 rounds downrange with a Gen 4 Glock with a Jager firing pin and Vanek trigger using lightweight springs with zero issues shooting all factory ammunition.

[dskinsler83]

Should hope it sets off factory ammunition.

[Givo08]

I did a the $.25 polish and installed a jäger striker and 4.5# striker spring, and my trigger breaks around 4#'s and is very crisp (for a glock). I shot some 50 yd drills yesterday, shooting 5 rounds in 5 seconds from the holster at an open target and managing 3 and 4 A's with remaining shots C's on each run. I find the key to running a glock trigger is keeping your trigger finger moving, rolling through the break and then resetting and doing it again while the gun is still recoiling.

This is different from the mechanics needed to run a 1911 trigger in my opinion, where your trigger finger is not in constant motion out and back like the glock.

[bowenbuilt]

Red,

It seems you were bombarded by a lot of good information here. As to your original problem, I had the same thing happen to me and found that the Zev connector was out of spec. Replaced it, left all the light and heavy springs in place and had no more problems with the gun doubling. Try putting the replacement springs back in with a 13 lb. recoil spring and try a different connector and see if your problem does not go away.

[dskinsler83]

Like Bowen said I have seen more than one ZEV connector out of spec. They usually are good about fixing them.

[bowenbuilt]

I just visited the DK Trigger website because of what I saw on this post. That is a very professional well put together website for sure. I have one of the new Glock .45's on order so I may just have to spend a few more bucks to try one of those out. Because it is an "approved" trigger with pre and over travel adjustments I am sure these will do quite well on the market and I wish them all the best.

[dskinsler83]

cool deal Bowen thanks

[rooster]

I have tried quite a few of the after market trigger kits and a lightened lengthened striker. Here are my conclusions. Stick with the oem parts. The best connector by far is the glock. Get a trigger assy. With the over travel screw. Per travel is overrated, it only comes into play on the first shot. If you ride the trigger to reset per travel is non existent. A lot of triggers that take out per travel negate or compromise the drop safety. But the over travel affects the reset distance. Try running a 13 lb. recoil spring, a 4.5 lb. striker spring, and the 3.5 lb. connector and you should be in the 2.5 to 3 lb range after everything is polished. Stay away from the 6 lb trigger spring as it affects reset on some guns. I have been using this combo for awhile now and has been completely reliable with the big 3 primers, Cci fed, and win. I wish I would have done this from the get go and I would have saved a lot of cash. The aftermarket trigger kits are nice but most of them are oem parts that are polished and changed a little to try to improve the stock trigger.

[dskinsler83]

To each there own but I will say that not all pre travel adjustment style triggers negate the drop safety. And you can also argue reset and Overtravel are not that big of a deal when you are shooting period. But with some shooters and each individuals they want a better feeling trigger. And the trigger return spring is an issue in Gen4s they generally will not run an extra power return spring reliably

Bottom line trigger feel for everyone is personal and everyone is entitled to their own opinion