Givo08

Comments like this just show the lack of understanding some shooters have about how hit factor scoring works, and how you can still win a match with penalties and mistakes like these that are part of a shooters risk/reward strategy. Getting popper f*cked isn't really part of that risk/reward strategy.

I put a TTI kit in with a 5# striker spring and am pretty happy with the trigger. It's around 4.25# but smooth, and pops any primers I want to use.

I agree with this. I use VV N320 at 3.1gr, 1.135" OAL, 145gr round nose bayou bullet. Made 131 PF at the last major I shot. Soft, accurate and clean.

The gen5 definitely helps relieve issues with "Glock knuckle." The G19 sized guns were always the worst for this for me, but a gen5 19 doesn't cause the issue at all.

I prefer a slight wall over a rolling break. I have a TTI kit in my production gun right now and it's decent, but I haven't done a lot of experimentation with different connectors.

I use CCI primers in my reloads and Winchester primers in factory ammo. I use a 4.5# striker spring with a Jager lightened/extended tip striker and have never had a light primer hit. I experimented briefly with a 4.0# striker spring and the Jager striker was still good to go, but I had several light hits with the stock striker (approx one-two per 100 rounds). I ultimately settled on the setup mentioned above for the peace of mind over the 4.0# spring.

I think shooters get a false sense of confidence shooting 1911/2011 triggers slow fire with no time pressure, where it's much easier to shoot nice tight groups than stock Glock triggers. When you start to push things to max speed on drills like el pres, bill drills from 7-25 yds, accelerator drill, blake drills, etc I don't think the trigger makes a difference in the amount of A/C/D hits you get. That's why most people don't see an actual bump in match performance when they switch from Glocks to STI's.

That was the original specs, but they changed around 2011-2012 to the ramped Springfield barrel due to the nowlin barrels being prone to splitting. I've witnessed 3 pros with the old style barrel split like this and render the guns completely useless. I'm just curious why they would have changed back to to the original style.

Interesting, thanks for the pic. I'll upload one for comparison of the ramped barrel on mine which was finished approximately last winter (early 2015). This would be a major change, and I wonder if it coincides with the end of the FBI contract.

This is new from the factory or new to you from someone else? My last Pro was in the CRG45XX range of serial numbers and has the ramped barrel. The new production guns all have ramped barrels and have for quite some time. All of the new off the line pros i've handled in the last 2 years (~20ish) have had the ramped barrel. What is the serial # on yours?

I'd recommend replacing your mag release spring annually. I had a spring develop a slight bend in it after a pretty high-volume training year and mags started dropping out of the gun under recoil. I changed the spring out and the problem went away immediately.

Actually, both but I guess, a bit more for sport. Thanks. The only single stack 1911s I've ever owned that would shoot ball ammo and hollow point duty ammo without having to tinker with mag springs (to be 100% reliable with both) was a Springfield TRP and a Wilson Combat Professional. Both with non-ramped barrels. I have a newer model Springfield Pro with a ramped barrel and it has no issues feeding swc's, jhp's, or ball ammo. It was my understanding that all of the Pros (certainly the 5-6 I've seen) all have two piece feed ramps. What do you mean by 2 piece? The current production Pros have a ramped Springfield barrel. The original Pros had a throated Nowlin barrel and the feed ramp was on the frame (i.e. the more traditional 1911 design). The Nowlin barrels had issues cracking and Springfield made the design change a few years back.

Actually, both but I guess, a bit more for sport. Thanks. The only single stack 1911s I've ever owned that would shoot ball ammo and hollow point duty ammo without having to tinker with mag springs (to be 100% reliable with both) was a Springfield TRP and a Wilson Combat Professional. Both with non-ramped barrels. I have a newer model Springfield Pro with a ramped barrel and it has no issues feeding swc's, jhp's, or ball ammo.

I prefer having a frame weight on my glock whether shooting major or minor. It does make the recoil impulse more "dull." The bigger advantage to me is that it improves the consistency of my transitions. You may be able to drive a lighter gun faster between targets, but in my experience I can stop a heavier gun where I want to easier with excessive sight movement.

Anyone figure out what time registration will be open on Saturday yet? I emailed USPSA HQ and the response I got was that they don't know.

I'm moving to Savannah, Ga in the near future and looking for the closest matches as well as a good range/club to join for practicing. So far, I've seen the match in Brunswick, GA and one near Charleston, SC. Are there any others within easy driving distance (2hrs or less)? Also, I am looking for a range that I can join that allows uspsa style practice with freestyle bays where I can setup my own targets and doesnt have rules restricting movement, drawing, etc, preferably within 30-45 minutes if possible. Any recommendations? Thanks!

you can't move a glock front sight.You can move a glock front sight, and this is often the cause of the rear sight needing to be pushed right. If the front sight is not perfectly parallel to the slide, it will cause you to need this kind of rear sight drift. It is easy to get the front sight twisted this direction because the threads on glock front sights are setup such that when you put torque on the sight screw to tighten it, the front sight will twist so that the rear face of the sight will turn to the right. Try loosing the front sight and re-tightening but being sure to keep the sight parallel. You can use calipers to measure the front and back of the sight to make sure its parallel to the slide. A little bit of movement goes a long way here, and a front sight that is twisted to the right will cause you to have to push the rear sight almost to the right edge of the slide to compensate.

Forget the slow fire stuff for now. You can clearly press the trigger slow and turn in a good group from a rest. You need to learn how to press the trigger fast without disturbing the sights. In dry fire, extend the gun, put your finger on the trigger and start your shot timer on a delay. As soon as the timer beeps, press the trigger as fast as you can without disturbing the sights. If the sights move off target, you know you didn't press it correctly. Adjust your grip and trigger finger position until you can do this subconsciously without disturbing the sights. DO NOT cheat yourself by slowing down your trigger press. Press through as fast as you can react to the timer. Carry this same drill over to live fire. Use the same start setup, and fire one round on the timer with the gun starting aimed at the target and your finger on the trigger. As soon as the timer beeps, break the shot. Try to keep your time under .25-.3 which is just a bit longer than normal human reaction time. Glock triggers are much different than DA revolvers or single action triggers because they are a two stage trigger. It usually takes a lot more work to learn how to shoot them correctly. You can lighten the trigger pull and make this process easier to learn, but a stock glock trigger can be shot well.

I have gotten 1.6-2.1" 5 shot groups at 25 yds off a rest from a gen 4 G19 and gen 3 G26, and I have shot a 3" 5 shot group at 50 yds off a rest with a G26. I don't see why a G34 wouldn't be just as mechanically accurate. These groups were mostly shot with factory speer lawman 115gr +p FMJ. Here is that 50 yd G26 group: And here is a 20yd group shot with my gen4 G19 standing/unsupported with 147gr Speer G2 ammo:

My Gen4 G19 and G35 are much more accurate than my Gen3 G19 and Gen3 G17. The lockup on them is much tighter, as others have mentioned. With the slide in battery, I can slightly move the Gen3 barrels by pressing on the barrel hood. I cannot see any visible movement in the gen4 guns when pressing on the hoods. I have shot several 5 shot bench rested groups with my gen4 G19 that are around 1.6-2.1" at 25 yds. I am lucky to keep the group around 3" on my gen3 G19.

I"ve used Warren Sevigny sights and TTI sights which both have a .115" wide front sight, and I have never had a fiber rod break.

I started having mags drop from the gun under recoil randomly late last year. I thought it was the way I was gripping the gun and hitting the mag release. I decided to replace the spring just in case, and when I pulled out the one in the gun it was bent slightly in the middle which I think was causing the mag release to drop the mags. I haven't had the problem since, and I will replace that spring preventatively on an annual basis now. I probably did between 8k-10k reloads last year in dry fire and live fire practice.

In that article, he talks about how they bench rest more accurately. In my opinion, this is true. The reason I think this works for bench rest is because you can get a perfect sight picture (equal height/equal light between the front and rear sight). On a short radius gun, this is even easier to do consistently because the front sight appears wider and the light bars on the side of the front sight are smaller, which allows you to line it up easier. I can shoot more accurate bench rested groups with my G26 using standard 3 dot trijicon night sights than I can with my G35 using TTI sights with a narrow front sight. However, this does not necessarily relate to standing unsupported accuracy, where the longer sight radius gives you more forgiveness. If you don't have perfect sight alignment, an offset of the front sight in the rear notch will be much more pronounced down range on a shorter sight radius. Here is an example of a 50 yard, 5 shot bench rest group I shot with my G26 using factory speer lawman 115gr ammo:

Minor: 180grain Black Bullets International 2.7gr clays @ 1.130" 135pf 180grain Xtreme Plated Bullet 3.0 gr clays @ 1.130" 135pf Major 180grain BBI 4.2gr titegroup @ 1.130" 171pf The titegroup load is extremely accurate.

"One shot stops" are a fallacy, and Marshall and Sanow have extremely flawed data. Look at the FBI Terminal Ballistics studies if you want real statistically sound information.