eric nielsen Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Most multi-shot drills in dryfire, the gun looks like this. Advantages: easy, allows mag changes. Disadvantage: pulling against only the return leaf is not realistic and doesn't built triggering skill like live fire does. I often dry-fired with the slide locked back on an Open or this Ltd gun, esp. one-handed. Advantages: pretty realistic 2-stage pull that starts with the return leaf then adds the sear leaf with full return/reset length. Disadvantages: draws from holster are iffy; mag changes could break your ejector, works your recoil spring a little, doesn't work on other platforms. Now I do this. Advantages: realistic pull/reset, allows safety manipulation, draws, mag changes; quiet (happy wife / happy life). Disadvantage: costs about 0.05 cents, if your grip safety isn't pinned, you also need another wrap of tape on that too. If you like it, give it a cool name like "the Nielsen trick". Only took me about 15 years to think of it... HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilBunniFuFu Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Interesting, thanks for the tip. Now I won't have to rack the slide for every draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I'm definitely going to go home and give that a try. Looks like something where a cut piece of bicycle tube would be perfect instead of having to tape it up each time. Why did you say you had to tape your grip safety too. If you let the grip safety release does it allow something in the ignition system to move? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilBunniFuFu Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I think that the tape is lifting the beaver tail, so unless it was pinned, it would disengage the safety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Yea i considered that, I guess you would just have to squeeze harder to over come the mainspring and the grip safety spring... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Not sure how far the hammer has to be back to lift the hammer hooks off the sear - all my grip safeties are pinned. If a de-activated, unpinned grip safety still allows this 2-stage take-up, then just go with that I guess. Like they say if you can just squeeze harder on a working grip safety, that's good too I use about 3" of extremely cheap masking tape (1 wrap) and it holds the hammer for days at a time. If you have a low-friction hammer/sear engagement (a good trigger job) then the pull weight of the simulated 2-stage pull is about the same as your real trigger release. Still, nothing beats live-fire for learning to reset and prep for tight shots. The FL state match had a stage where you do a bunch of crazy stuff and then run a few steps over to the left and engage 1 metric paper and 4 little round plates at 35 yards. I went 2 A's and 4 plates in 7 shots - the extra was one where I prepped a little too much & the gun surprised me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilBunniFuFu Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Eric I was going to go to the FL State match but didn't. Watching videos of my local guys who went and seeing them dump whole magazines at those plates make me want to practice my trigger control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 Yes the 35 yard shots were an advertisement for adjustable sights, you have to be dead on POA/POI in this game. Even our local matches have 20-yard mini-poppers most every time. You save a ton of time hitting them the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 One thing this tape trick allows is 10x or 100x more reps in the same time at resetting between targets and settling the dots/sights into the next target with a prepped trigger. Also sometimes I set up easy target (slap, aka accelerated pull) and transition over to hard target (reset & prep then squeeze). If any of that is unclear here's a good video: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilBunniFuFu Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Sweet video, explains some nice things. But some of those things don't translate to dry firing very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkrad1935 Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 this tape trick seems cool but is there something different on a 2011 than a 1911 that makes this work? I am new to 1911's (literally had one for less than a week) and there is nothing to tape on the beavertail that I can see. What exactly is being taped? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 It's the same. 1911 or 2011 or Caspian HiCap or Para or Springfield hicap etc If you notice anything funky in manipulating the thumb safety, that's your cue to untape and retape because the hammer is not back enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianhansen Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Great info for dryfire. Instead of taping, I made a ball of masking tape and stuck it between the hammer and firing pin. It was big enough to keep the hammer back and allow the spring tension to be felt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 That's a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkrad1935 Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 so the tape was holding the hammer down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkrad1935 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 what does that do? The trigger feels exactly the same when I do that as when I dont... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 (edited) Hold gun in strong hand, be sure grip safety is engaged. Squeeze trigger a few times w/hammer down. Use left thumb to hold hammer all the way back as far as it will go. Squeeze trigger a few times back & forward again, slowly. Those 2 things should feel different. If not, your trigger job is unlike all the 1911- pattern guns I've owned. My Cheely Ltd gun does have a sort of 2-stage feel with the hammer down (which is nice) but it's not the same reset point as live fire or with the hammer held back. The pull weight isn't the same either. If your grip safety keeps going back on safe you probably won't get any benefit from a tape wrap or a ball of tape jammed in there. This doesn't work on CZ or Tanfoglio or (as far as I know) any gun that lacks the 1911-type 3-leaf trigger/sear/grip-safety spring. Edited February 1, 2014 by eric nielsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkrad1935 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 I have a Nighthawk Custom Talon. When Hammer is down the trigger has a little travel - maybe an 1/8th inch. When the hammer is cocked, it has that same travel and breaks immediately at the end of that travel. When I hold the hammer all the way back it feels exactly like when the hammer is down. This gun is barely a week old. My other gun is a Glock 34. With my Glock, I have been trying to figure out how to reset for multiple shots but I dont think it matters for the NightHawk. The trigger just seems perfect. Hahah. I may be missing something on this trick - but it doesn't seem to change the feel of pulling on the trigger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkrad1935 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Now - could someone please invent a magazine insert for a glock that has a piston adaptor thing to push the slide back enough for reset in dry fire sessions? Maybe propane powered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trgt Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 (edited) Now - could someone please invent a magazine insert for a glock that has a piston adaptor thing to push the slide back enough for reset in dry fire sessions? Maybe propane powered? You can get a resetting trigger for the Glock, but I realize that isn't exactly what you are asking for. This thing would take you a minute or so to swap out trigger groups with your normal trigger each time you wanted to use it. Just FYI in case you aren't aware of it as another approach to Glock resetting trigger. http://www.glockstore.com/reset-trigger-kit-for-glock Edited February 1, 2014 by trgt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkrad1935 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 thanks trgt. I have heard mixed reviews on this resetting trigger. Have you used it? Its probably not that critical as long as you have the right mix of dry and live fire practice. My challenge is that most live fire is either in a match or at an indoor range in a shooting stall.....so transitions are tough to practice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 The Glockstore trigger is not that great - you can have mine since I don't own any Glocks now. For your question who makes something to reset the whole slide: http://www.setcan.com/dvorak.php (it's not cheap) http://www.setcan.com/pdfs/dvorak_tethered.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 thanks trgt. I have heard mixed reviews on this resetting trigger. Have you used it? Its probably not that critical as long as you have the right mix of dry and live fire practice. My challenge is that most live fire is either in a match or at an indoor range in a shooting stall.....so transitions are tough to practice The trick for the Glocks is to put something in the slide to keep it slightly out of battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimo-Hombre Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 so the tape was holding the hammer down? Just taping the hammer to the beaver tail ( grip safety) Thanks for sharing the idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkrad1935 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 erik - have you tried that piston from Dvorak? That actually looks pretty cool. Cant find a price on their website though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now