kimberacp Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 should I use glue or locite when installing the barrel nut back on??? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonovanM Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Absolutely not. Use grease or antiseize and apply the correct amount of torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoomy Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 No need for Loctite. I recommend using an antseize compound on the threads and then tightening it to 10-15 foot pound and backing off and then tightening to 25-30 foot lbs back off and the tighten to a ft lbs value between 35-60 that centers the gas tube. This alternating tightening and loosening will help mate the threads for better surface contact by flattening burrs and thread surface irregularities. Loctite will deteriorate with the tempuratures that the chamber area can achieve. The copper in the antiseize will help hold and the temps will not bother it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Loctite will greatly increase the chance that you will tweak the receiver if you ever have to take it back apart. A good anti-seize is the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Based on the title of the thread, was hoping you were asking about locktite on barrel extension/upper receiver interface, which some folks advocate, but NOT on barrel nut. The gas tube, if using a mil spec barrel nut, makes this unnecessary. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Anderson Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Based on the title of the thread, was hoping you were asking about locktite on barrel extension/upper receiver interface, which some folks advocate, but NOT on barrel nut. The gas tube, if using a mil spec barrel nut, makes this unnecessary. Mark I did this on a recent build. Really worked out great. Anti seize on the barrel nut threads, but loctite on the barrel extension. Gun shoot 1/2 MOA. Best Ar I've put together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimberacp Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 Based on the title of the thread, was hoping you were asking about locktite on barrel extension/upper receiver interface, which some folks advocate, but NOT on barrel nut. The gas tube, if using a mil spec barrel nut, makes this unnecessary. Mark yes that is correct not on the barrel nut threads but on the extension. any locite? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 no expert here, but i searched the errornet prior to replacing my barrel, and got the impression that its a possibly useful technique for maximizing accuracy. so got some medium strength higher temp loctite and went ahead. have not shot match grade ammo yet, just pmc and m193, so not sure if its of benefit, but since i installed a ranier arms select match barrell, figured why not. should be able to disassemble when needed, as its blue locktite, not red. dont remember #, but its not 242, maybe 246? mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinT Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I don't know what the various decompose temps are for the different flavors, but I think blue is lower than red. If it's too low and you get the barrel hot enough you'll just melt the loctite back out. Red is what I've heard recommended before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Not all blue locktites are the same. 272, which is red, is rated for 450 degrees F, no different than 246 (blue). The common blue locktite, 242, is only rated for 302 degrees F. Did not want to use red, as high heat is required to diassemble, rather than tools. Advantage of 246 in addition to higher heat tolerance than regular blue is resistance to oils. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinT Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Ok, never mind...I doubt you're going to get it to 300F even doing crazy mag dumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 A lot of high power shooter put red loctite on the extension with the idea of eliminating any minute amount of play. It's really not a problem unless you get it on the barrel nut. Whether it actually makes a difference or not is impossible to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Ah, misunderstood the question. Making more sense now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Anderson Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Ok, never mind...I doubt you're going to get it to 300F even doing crazy mag dumps. Wanna bet? 300 is nothing. The chamber area gets pretty darn hot pretty quick. The extension gets a lot of heat as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Loctite comes in about 100 different flavors. Best thing to do is check their web site or contact their techs if you have a question about a specific application. They have plenty of options for high heat applications if that's what you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinT Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Ok, never mind...I doubt you're going to get it to 300F even doing crazy mag dumps. Wanna bet? 300 is nothing. The chamber area gets pretty darn hot pretty quick. The extension gets a lot of heat as well. You think so? I'd be interested if anyone's got data on it. I know you can get the handguards on an AK to smoke and can melt AR gas tubes with multiple Betas on full auto. But if you've got a free float tube on then the chamber/extension has a giant heat sink, and I would think it would have to be in the "instant permanent maiming" range for the chamber to be around 300F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpeltier Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 http://www.dtic.mil/get-tr-doc/pdf?AD=ADA019649 If this link works it will link you to a military test done in 1975 on bbl temps taken at different locations from the chamber to the muzzle. Very interesting data. Based on this it seems that even the lowest temp lock tite would be fine. Especially scince most of us will never subject our AR's to the same rate of fire and rounds as this test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinT Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Interesting. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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