Convince me to buy or not to buy a 1050

[Shadyscott999]

One question, how tight should I set the shell plate lock ring? Right now I think I have it set a bit too loose but just a bit.

probably tighter than you think. I tighten mine until it drags then back it off slowly until it doesn't. I have always been tighter than Dillions recommended 1/8 turn or what ever it is.

If it is too loose, you can have sizing, indexing, priming, etc problems.

[rmantoo]

Why1504, you will not regret the 1050.

Like shadyscott, I run my ring a bit tighter than Dillon recommends. I don't like for my shell plate to move any more than is absolutely necessary.

I tighten it so that my hand simply sitting on the handle when it's at 45degrees isn't enough to complete the stroke, then I back it off about 1/4"-3/8" from there.

I actually have a spare that is at my powder coater right now, waiting to be coated with some sort of high-tech super-slick coating... we'll see how that works out.

[benos]

I kept the 1050's Shellplate tight enough so that it would just barely index, every time.

[Why1504]

This was perfect. Thanks guys!!

I adjusted the plate and ran some brass. The 223 was all running 1.750 or less. Before I was having 1 out of 10-12 running 1.753 or so. I know these extend beyond the spec. Should I recut the ones that a slightly over??

[buckaroo45]

Sorry, I got nuthin' to deter your buying a 1050. Call it an affliction.

[Why1504]

Sorry, I got nuthin' to deter your buying a 1050. Call it an affliction.

Yep. I caught the bug for sure. So far, here are my comments, it's a beast. Precise, fast, yet elegantly simple. It looks complex and intimidating but take it apart, and you realize how well engineered it is.

[BigBets]

Another thing you can do when reloading 9 and 40 is setup the press with the 40 shellplate. Then to load 9 just use the 9 locator buttons with the 40 plate. I have done this for 3 years now. When switching you can either just change toolheads or buy/make settable lock rings and change 9 to 40 and back in a matter of minutes. Works very well

That being said I still like precision 223 on a 550. The process is more manual and I "feel" more precise. After completely disassembling the powder measure and polishing and deburring every part the powder touches I am able to load Varget or VV N140 with drops that vary by plus or minus .1 grains. I use a Lyman M die in station 1 to barely kiss the case mouth open eliminating the need to chamfer and deburr. Drop powder in 2, seat in 3, and crimp in 4 only enough to take out the tiny amount of belling caused by station one. With Sierra matchking bullets in 69 or 77 grain and with no brass prep other than tumbling and trimming on the dillon trimmer, I get .5 to .75 MOA ammo out to 500 yards in my JP with a six power scope. Loading 300 an hour taking my time is plenty fast enough in that application.

For blaster ammo I get Hornady ammo cheap thru my job but when I make blaster is usually on the 1050 with a bulletfeeder. That setup is a MACHINE. 1000 and hour not even trying 223 and easily that and more in 9 or 40. With a small child and a wife that lets me travel to major matches monthly during the season, I certainely try to spend as little time reloading as possible

Bets

[flyingrhino]

I don't have the 1050 but here is my 2 cents....If money were no object I would have as many 1050's as I could cram in my reloading room. They are definitely the best reloaders out there. However, money is an issue. I have a 650 and a SDB. Had 3 SDB's but gave one to each of the sons. As one poster mentioned, I ENJOY reloading. Not so much on the SDB's but I LOVE reloading on my 650XL. I don't shoot the competitions any more but if I did I would buy another 650 if not 2 more. Shooting 223 in competition required several steps to brass prep on the 650 that are shortened considerably by the 1050. I just learned to enjoy the process. I can honestly say that I used to reload to shoot, now I shoot to reload.