JaeOne3345 Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 First off, I have read the manual, and searched numerous images on google. Has the geometry of the 1050 changed recently? In the manual and on older posts here on the forum, it says that you need to mount the unit close to the edge of the bench to ensure that the handle has clearance on the down stroke. Otherwise, people have mentioned that you may have to notch the bench it is attached to. I read a post (can't find it now) that basically stated that "older 1050 operation arms/handles would hit the bench top if not mounted on the very edge." I visited Dillon this weekend while shooting the Area 2 match in AZ, and it appears they the handle on the Super 1050 they had would have hit the edge of the work bench if it was mounted all the way to the edge. But then, there is this photo.... It seems as though this person has the two 1050's on the right mounted pretty far in. How is this possible? Is this a change in the geometry of the 1050? I am ready to order a 1050 from Brian, but I am trying to understand the mounting options a bit better since the bench I will be mounting it too doesn't really have a lot of overhang and I doubt I would be able to mount it on the edge. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henny Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Here's how mine is mounted: This is how much clearance when the handle is fully down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaeOne3345 Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 Yeah, Unfortunately, I don't have that much over hang. I think I may have to have the front holes attached with lag screws that go through the press, through the top of the bench, and into the 2x4 under neath. The rear will be able to be attached with bolts/screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henny Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I once had a bench that didn't have much of an overang. I just got a long bit and drilled the hole for the bolt through the 2x4. I don't believe I'd use a lag bolt. But, that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 1/2" steel plate in whatever dimension that you need for your bench + an amount to overhang your bench then drill and tap the holes for the press to mount to. Then simply mount the plate to your bench. You could make the plate quite a bit larger if you needed to. I would probably make it as wide as the press + maybe 1/2-1" on each side, and maybe 12-18" long. Mount the press on the front. Drill 4 holes behind where the press will sit and mount those to your bench. Or if you wanted the whole press to overhang your bench you could mount it like this and not even have to drill and tap the holes, just drill them out use bolts and nylocks or something like that. 1/2" plate IMO would be plenty strong to NOT bend from the forces a 1050 would put on it. You would in essence with this have a "floating" press off of your bench if that makes sense. 1/2" steel plate in what I am imagining shouldnt be that expensive, maybe 20 bucks. I got a local place that will cut what I need for about 25c a square inch with 24 hours notice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaeOne3345 Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 I think that is what I am gonna do. Steel plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 All of mine are mounted on the edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 (edited) I think that is what I am gonna do. Steel plate. You can come up with your own design obviously that should work, but what I am imagining would work fairly well. You might take the press to wherever you get your steel plate from and have them drill the holes for you. They will likely have a giant drill press that can do a much better job that most people can do at home. Unless of course you have a giant drill press. The other thing you could do would be to have a small steel pipe(maybe 3/4" diameter) welded to the bottom center of the portion that extends off of your bench. Have the bottom, outside threaded and then get something like a screw on pipe cap to have some adjustability. Although I DOUBT that a 1/2" thick plate of steel that is going to only come off a bench 4"(I think thats about the width of the 1050 frame) will bend or flex. My metal guy I use is pretty good and gives me lots of ideas on how to mount things or build plates for various things. Just throwing some more ideas out there. Edited November 12, 2013 by rjacobs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I have two RL-1050s and both are mounted right to the edge and I still had to notch the bench for clearance. If you put a spacer under the machine, that will give you more clearance so you can mount it further back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaeOne3345 Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 I think that is what I am gonna do. Steel plate. You can come up with your own design obviously that should work, but what I am imagining would work fairly well. You might take the press to wherever you get your steel plate from and have them drill the holes for you. They will likely have a giant drill press that can do a much better job that most people can do at home. Unless of course you have a giant drill press. The other thing you could do would be to have a small steel pipe(maybe 3/4" diameter) welded to the bottom center of the portion that extends off of your bench. Have the bottom, outside threaded and then get something like a screw on pipe cap to have some adjustability. Although I DOUBT that a 1/2" thick plate of steel that is going to only come off a bench 4"(I think thats about the width of the 1050 frame) will bend or flex. My metal guy I use is pretty good and gives me lots of ideas on how to mount things or build plates for various things. Just throwing some more ideas out there. Thanks for the brainstorming assistance. My gunsmith should be able to drill the holes for me with his equipment (mill, lathe, etc) I am guessing? I see some plates on ebay. Do you have any sources online that you could direct me to for metals like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhe Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I mounted mine on a piece of 12x8x1 steel plate that I drilled and tapped for mounting bolts and drilled for bolts to mount to bench. Adding the plate made the set up a lot more rigid than even the most aggressive mounting on a wooden bench. I highly recommend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I wouldn't order online. I guarantee you have a local metal supplier that can provide you what you want. Google search a local metal supplier and call them. Figure out what you want, thickness, size, etc... and go chat with them. 1" would be great but maybe overkill? I don't know. Best to call your local metal supply house and chat with them. And yes your gun smith should be able to drill your holes and tap them if you choose to do that. Also paint it with some rustoleum. The hammer black matches the 1050 ok. A hammer grey would be better but I've never seen it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaeOne3345 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Thanks, guys. I feel real dumb. I called my gunsmith and he knew where to source the metal and even said he would take care of the holes/tapping. I should have reached out to him first. Should've known it would be cake for him! Doh Now I can rest easy ordering the 1050. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowdyb Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 i put a spacer underneath mine. but your solution will work as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaeOne3345 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 I am gonna work with my gunsmith to do something like this... http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=621&p=49765 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Yeah, Unfortunately, I don't have that much over hang. I think I may have to have the front holes attached with lag screws that go through the press, through the top of the bench, and into the 2x4 under neath. The rear will be able to be attached with bolts/screws. Instead of using lag bolts, drill through the 2x4 and use either bolts long enough to pass though the 2x4 or use threaded rod. Us steel straping as a backup washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaeOne3345 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Yeah, Unfortunately, I don't have that much over hang. I think I may have to have the front holes attached with lag screws that go through the press, through the top of the bench, and into the 2x4 under neath. The rear will be able to be attached with bolts/screws. Instead of using lag bolts, drill through the 2x4 and use either bolts long enough to pass though the 2x4 or use threaded rod. Us steel straping as a backup washer. Yea, I realize that was a dumb idea. I am now pretty certain I am gonna copy the plate ideas above and use bolts. I will have four threaded holes on the plate that will anchor the press to the plate, and then four non threaded holes that a bolt will pass through, which will anchor the plate to the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Yeah, Unfortunately, I don't have that much over hang. I think I may have to have the front holes attached with lag screws that go through the press, through the top of the bench, and into the 2x4 under neath. The rear will be able to be attached with bolts/screws. Instead of using lag bolts, drill through the 2x4 and use either bolts long enough to pass though the 2x4 or use threaded rod. Us steel straping as a backup washer. Yea, I realize that was a dumb idea. I am now pretty certain I am gonna copy the plate ideas above and use bolts. I will have four threaded holes on the plate that will anchor the press to the plate, and then four non threaded holes that a bolt will pass through, which will anchor the plate to the bench. The plate will have to be at least 1/2" thick, go with 3/16" and bolt through the bench as I said before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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