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New Open Shooter


deerassassin22

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Alrighty then my fellow Beno's members get me up to speed with shooting open any reading materials, tips, hints, tricks you name it. I will have hopefully by the end of this week ad Akai Shogun 38SC in my little old hands from a trade I did with a member on this forum. So I have been shooting about 2 1/2 years total minus a deployment so around 14 months or so. I have made C class in Production and L10. I just made B class in limited which is what I mainly shoot never shot open shot a buddies gun 10time or so and well ya'll see the outcome.

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Honestly. Fundamentals become even more important when shooting open.

You are gonna now be faced with wanting to shoot on the move more because you can SEE the dot easier while moving.

Practice moving smoother while shooting, keep the dot in your wobble zone and just shoot the dot.

That Shogun is one of the flattest shooting open guns I have ever shot. It's the exact reason why I bought 2 more when the opportunity arose.

Keep your arms extended so the dot is always in the same place. When you run into a stage where you have a low port or have to shoot over a wall, stay behind the gun. Don't think that you can just cant your wrists forward pointing at the target and still see the dot. Either point shoot or if there is a N/S, aquire the dot before lighting the target up.

Don't suck your elbows in when you get to ports. Stay back and keep this in mind when doing your walk through.

Most of all,

Have fun :)

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^^^^

Agreed. Brass prep and QC is an important step in making good ammo for your super, and your super needs good ammo so it can run reliably.

I'll pretty much do the following for all ammo, but especially with range pickup brass that wasn't shot through my guns. The only exception for me would be maybe some scrimp loads made just for practice:

First I'll deprime/size brass, then run the sized brass through a gauge set at 0.902 - 0.903". The chambers on my guns will take a 0.906 - 0.907" long case before they will not go into battery fully. For a gauge you can use a set of calipers locked in position with the set screw, and then just roll your brass through the jaws (making a little ramp out of tape so they roll right over the beam part helps). Or, you can use a set of parallel jaw clamps with a rod sized to hold the jaws open to your desired case OAL. It goes really quick...like 1k in about 15 minutes. Set the ones that don't go through the gauge aside and trim later if you want. After checking the OAL of the empty cases they get run through an EGW case gauge before loading (actually, my daughter does this for one American dollar!). Load the ammo as normal, then case gauge with the EGW again and visually inspect primers. This process may be a little more work, but it pretty much eliminates ammo related jams for me..

So, short story is to get to know your chamber and the ammo it will feed reliably, and then take the necessary steps to make quality ammo.

Oh, and congrats on the new gat and welcome to the Dark Side.

Fear not the speed, only the hole that it leaves...or doesn't leave. :devil:

Either way, it is a heck of a lot of fun. :rolleyes:

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^^^ Thanks for the info wish I had kids sometimes :)... You actually trim the brass to the same length? Not trying to start a debate but I was thinking about doing that to all my 38SC i know i do it for my 40 brass for my major matches people laugh but my SD is down to 7 or 8 most the time and my lengths are consitant. I like you motto I'm anal about loading esp for expensive guns and the fact that i never worry about my ammo messing up although sometimes i wish it would gives me an excuse.

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No, trimming is not going to be necessary on that gun. I've never checked the chamber depth because I never needed to.

My old Millennium? That's a different story....

Turns out the chamber was only .895" deep and would give me a mystery jam once every 5 stages.

Reamed the chamber on the lathe, 100% after that.

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"You actually trim the brass to the same length?"

No, not quite that loco.

I'm just checking to ensure they are not longer than 0.903" and culling out the ones that are.

I'll trim the ones I cull out after I get a coffee can full or so, which is about once a year.

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Man I Love that gun. Everyone at the range is amazed by the nice Fireball sometimes with the 3n38 first time it scared the be jeasous out of me. Have you shot your new toy yet?

Also how many mags does every carry> I was thinking 2 Big Sticks, and a Medium Stick. So 1 in the gun 2 on the belt.

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Nope, just played "Army" with it around the house so far.

Soon enough, I hate it being this clean :)

I have 3 pouches on my belt. 2 in front hold 140's (I only load them with 21 for easy seating). 1 more pouch under my left arm holds my stage start big stick.

I also keep a magnet on my front pouch for unloaded/seated starts.

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my SD is down to 7 or 8 most the time and my lengths are consitant.

I am down to about 4-6 with 9mm range brass. I think press operation has more to do with that than anything else. I can't imagine trimming pistol brass on a routine basis.

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I was thinking which sometimes I shouldn't but anyhow. I have a 22lr with a cmore top mount on it would the same principles still apply to tracking the dot and such?

Since there is almost no dot movement with a 22 based dot gun it is different IMHO. If you are getting dot movement, and by this I mean a lot of up and down, then you are not gripping tight enough, c'mon, it's a .22. Yes, it's the same principle, you should be seeing more dot movement with the Open blaster though. You are talking about a 22lr handgun right?

With a 22 based open gun, you need to make everything extremely hard. Increase distances by triple, reduce target size by a lot. Think index cards. The 22 is so easy to control, if care is not taken and this aspect accounted for, you can jack up your shooting a bit. I always practiced with the 22 then immediately used the race gun on the same drill. Saved a ton of ammo and got the benefit of trigger time.

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