zzt Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 Unfortunately, I don't have a picture. I have forgotten the name of the inventor, but Harrison Custom now sells the tools and also finished sears. The true radius is actually an arc with a radius equal to the distance between the center of the sear pin and the nose of the sear. Since it is a curved surface only on point of the sear ever contacts the hammer at any given time. As the trigger is pulled and the sear moves off the hooks, there is still only one point of contact. This eliminates the need for perfect alignment of the planes of the sear primary surface and the hammer hooks. You still have to make sure there is even engagement left/right, but that's easy. The secondary is typically the same size as the primary. If there is no secondary cut it is called a 'roll' trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuckinMS Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 I will try looking it up on Harrison's web. Sounds intriguing. I usually spend a lot of time with a stone trying to make sure that the angles are as flat and smooth as possible. This sounds way faster, since you are not having to do the secondary angle on the sear. Thanks for the insight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 You do want a secondary on the sear. It makes for a better trigger pull. Cutting the secondary takes about a minute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yigal Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, zzt said: You do want a secondary on the sear. It makes for a better trigger pull. Cutting the secondary takes about a minute. sometimes 2. Edited March 16, 2018 by yigal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 On 3/16/2018 at 4:50 PM, zzt said: You do want a secondary on the sear. It makes for a better trigger pull. Cutting the secondary takes about a minute. Any examples or a writeup on cutting the second sear and hammer hook height dimensions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 (edited) I cut the hammer hooks to the recommended .018", because I want a competition trigger pull. Harrison Custom, who now sells the tools for cutting a True Radius onto a sear recommends the primary and secondary be equal, and the secondary is cut at a 45 degree angle. His variable length tool has a stop for cutting the secondary. Here is a link to the tool. https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/hd-806-true-radius-pro-sear-stoning-jig Alternately, you could jut buy an already prepped TR sear. Weigand prefers more of a secondary, but the same .018" hammer hooks. Weigand 1911 trigger job instructions.pdf Edited March 18, 2018 by zzt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Power Custom is the way to go. Been using one for 20+ years and still the best tool for the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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