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ICORE gunsmith


surgdog

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Hi, guys.

Just started into revolvers and have a 627 38 super that needs trigger job, hammer bob and cylinder chamfer.

I live in Central Mississippi and the local guru has retired and not taking any more work.

I email Mike Carmoney yesterday and he is not doing the work any longer. Apex is not taking this kind of work.

There is a company in Princeton, Louisana that I can't find the name right now that does the work and I was wondering if y'all had any rec for them or someone else around this area.

Thank you,

mk

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I think the company you are looking for is Clark Custom Guns. Jerry Miculek is married to Kay Clark. They are pretty good with revolvers.

That is it. I hope that is a tongue in cheek remark about "pretty good with revolvers":)

Thanks, I will give them a call and see what there wait time is.

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Paul Francis is my revosmith (bosshoss on this forum). I've had 4 done by him. One came from Sandburr Ranch and I still took it to Paul. In my opinion he's one of the best in the business and knows exactly what comp shooters are looking for, as he is a comp shooter himself (USPSA/ICORE/Steel). I think he was a machinist professionally before retiring. He also works very fast, I've never had a revo with him past two weeks. Doesn't have an FFL (yet), so something will have to be worked out for shipping but I think you'll find it's well worth it.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showuser=30908

Here's a few pics of his metal work. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=177904

Edited by sbcman
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mk,

I had my 627 .38 super trigger work done originally by Clarks. It was reasonably priced, decent turn around, and good. I shot it that way for a few years. Then I sent it to Mike for full "Carmonizing" and really liked it. But I suspect Mr. Carmoney is an equally talented attorney so he may remain in demand and stuck at his desk rather than his smithing bench. Good for his clients. Too bad for us.

FWIW - to whomever you send it, you might have them check your crown for any little burrs, and see if your forcing cone is square. I was unaware of both of those issues until another shooting friend/smith discovered and fixed them. They made a notable improvement in the accuracy of the gun.

mike

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Thanks for the reply Mike and the info on the crown.

Are you saying you recommend Clark's?

Being a brand new revolver shooter I'm not in a class where I would probably notice a .25# trigger pull difference. I now my trigger pull now is long and hard and reloading is a pain (likely from inexperience) but also for needing a cylinder chamfer. Looking for a reliable, quick competition job.

mk

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I only have experience with Clarks and Mr. Carmoney so it wouldn't be to the exclusion of anyone else out there. Since you can't carmonize, I could still recommend Clarks based upon my experience at the time. I don't recall if they reamed the cylinders. I assume they chamfered them. I know Mike went all back through it, checking timing, new trigger stop, and of course dremeled my hammer good. How much work he did first or touched up some of theirs, I don't know/recall. To me it seemed good. Then it got even better. But I only had @ half of my hammer left so it's probably not a fair comparison.

Re: trigger pull weight, for me, and it seems others, lighter is better but not the only goal. Smooooooth action, 100% ignition, and a proper balance between main spring and rebound spring weights are also important for proper trigger pull and ultimately your hits and scores. A good smith will help with those too. And dry firing a few thousands times while throwing in dummy moons a few hundred times couldn't hurt either...

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Doesn't have an FFL (yet), so something will have to be worked out for shipping but I think you'll find it's well worth it.

Listen, I don't want to sound critical and I have absolutely no dog in this fight personally, but anybody who is working on other people's guns in exchange for compensation needs to have an FFL in order to be in compliance with federal law. This is not something to mess around with.

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I second Harold at 150x.com he has done all my gun work since Mike went to the dark side. His web site needs to be updated but I can attest that his work is top notch. He has shot and built ppc guns for decades.

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Doesn't have an FFL (yet), so something will have to be worked out for shipping but I think you'll find it's well worth it.

Listen, I don't want to sound critical and I have absolutely no dog in this fight personally, but anybody who is working on other people's guns in exchange for compensation needs to have an FFL in order to be in compliance with federal law. This is not something to mess around with.

I remember you explaining that issue somewhere in the enosphere a while back. It was educational and shed light on things most would never had thought of. If I can find it I'll post.

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Hi All,

Will those gunsmith fix someone else's butcher job? I like 4" S&W and bought a 4" barrel off Ebay. The seller is "gunsmith" with web site/shop in AL and It's an hour drive from home (thinking great deal). So, I mailed my 686 with 6" barrel to him, he installed new barrel, an action job and radius the cylinder. This will be my IDPA gun. The work look fair but the revolver miss fired one round every cylinder full. I found an extra wolf reduce power spring to fix that problem. Then I start rest shooting for accuracy - about 2.25 " at 20 yards - very poor compared to the 6" barrel. Also, the revolver is spiting lead - I get a ridge at the end on the outside of the cylinder. So, will a good smith take on a butcher job? or should I just sale at pawn shop or keep for car gun and buy new S&W 686 SSR. I have $1200.00 in it right now!

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So there is a shop in the northern part of California that tinkers with Smith Revos a bit. APEX tactical specialties is the name. They have sub-5 pound double action trigger jobs that are glass smooth & work. A few big names in the pro revolver circles are wielding Apex's guns.

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