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Glock Build v 2011 Build


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I'm getting back into USPSA after a 20 year break. Back in the day my last race gun was a .38 Super built on a McCorrmick frame. My last classification average was 0.2 below Master. I'm about to turn 50 and I know I'll never get back to that level and I really doubt I'm going to compete as much as I used to.

I've decided to shoot this year in Single Stack but if I decide to stay in the sport I'll want an Open gun to shoot next year. Looking at costs and the availability of drop in stuff for the Glock as opposed to a 2011 having to be built by someone that really has a clue, I really want to hear from weekend shooters that have built Glock Open guns especially those that have competed with both.

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Have a 2011 as well as a glock open gun and the 2011 is definitely a nicer flatter shooting gun. I had the SJC mount installed and the ejection port lowered by carver but other than that it was pieced together with no changes to the extractor, ejector etc. It runs and is used as a backup gun to my sti as It was much cheaper and really couldn't justify a second STI to use as a backup, or when the main gun is getting worked on

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A friend of mine just got a Open Glock in 357 Sig. Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet, last time I saw her she was still trying to get it to run. I'll let you know how it compares to my 2011 when I finally get to shoot it.

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I may be in the minority here but after building a open Glock how much money do you really save? If you do all the work yourself you would. It's hard enough to get an say STI to eject properly. Getting a Glock to do the same takes some doing . Your trying to make the gun fo something it wasn't designed to do in the first place. Especially if a standard cmore mount is used. Of course if you know what your doing and it may go easier. JMHO

On another note I too have and open STI as well as an open Glock

Edited by Scootertheshooter
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I think this all depends on the amount of money you want to spend and how you plan on using it. If money is not an object or if at least you can afford a solid used S_I Open gun, that is the direction you need to go in. However, if you plan on using it very seldom and "just for fun", then the Open striker-fired pistols are the ticket so you are not sinking money into something that you rarely use. All things being equal, the S_I platform is the way to go for an Open pistol.

There was another discussion on here a few months back very similar to this. Check this out:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=165638

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Well I had a 2011 Trubor, and now a Carver Customs G17. All in all, it's going to come down to what feels best in your hands. If you believe in your tool, the results will come.

For me, I like the Glock, it's different, it's cool to me. Does it shoot like the 2011? Is some respects yes, in some no.

With minor, NO DOUBT the 2011 handles it way better. The dot barely moved, but with an Open Glock, it's surprisingly violent.

BUT, at major velocities, it's close. You really have to work the comp on a glock to make it be in the same ballpark as a 2011.

For me, my old Trubor felt heavy and big, had a T-2 comp and no slide lightening (FWIW). My CC G17 is way more agile, and quick feeling for transitions for me.

Furthermore, 9Major is a dangerous beast. It gets even more difficult with Glocks due to the OAL restrictions for reliable magazine feeding.

Loads for my 2011, 5.5 AC minor, 7.2 major, OAL 1.170.

Loads for my CC G17, 6.8 AC major at 1.145-.050. No minor for me with this gun.

All MG 124 JHP for bullets.

Does the dot flip more on the Glock? Yes, but with correct aggressive grip it can become minuscule in my mind.

A new CC G17 is in the ballpark of a used 2011, so to each it's own. For me, I grew up shooting Glocks and know much more about them.

I got extremely exhausted (due to my own negligence admittedly) taking my 2011 to a smith every single time something went wrong.

At least with a Glock, I can diagnose and possibly (and more than likely) be able to fix it all on my own.

Make something feel comfortable to YOU, and watch your results go up. Regardless of the platform.

Just my two cents, good luck!

Edited by RangeJunkie
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Good points Range Junkie. My McCormick race gun never felt as good as my single stack race gun. (I have small hands. I was never as good with it and if long mags had been legal and worked regularly on open race guns at the time I would have not had it built.

Also there is not a good gunsmith anywhere nearby. You can tell this because I'm going home this afternoon to knock the factory sights off of my single stack 1911 and fitting new sights myself. I've also got a C&S drop in trigger job that should be waiting at home for me to try and install.

I know in the end I'm going to have to shoot a race Glock to decide but all this input helps.

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I shoot an open Glock and score well with it. I built it just to try open division without sinking alot of money into it. The 2011 open guns that I have shot do feel better and have a little less recoil. If I was going to only shoot open and try to make GM with it I would probably build a 2011 but for local matches the Glock works just fine. Parts are readilly available and don't require tuning for the most part. If you want to jump into open for less go for it IMO. Worst case you buy a 2011 later and have the Glock as a backup

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Shot both. The open glock was better on drills (draws, reloads, Triple Six) but not as good in matches. It's a jumpy, twitchy gun. For Steel Challenge with many draws, minor ammo, no shooting on the move, and single shots per target the open glock is great, the rolling trigger is fine for that too. But for uspsa stages, the Glock trigger will (for average mortal shooters) drop your hit factor because you can't slap the trigger on close targets fast/accurate enough to keep up with a wide-body 1911 like the STI or Caspian frame. Major ammo will kick you around more as well, so to get the same quality of follow-up shot, you have accomplish more work with the glock. My $0.02

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you can't slap the trigger on close targets fast/accurate enough to keep up with a wide-body 1911

I would suggest that you try a grandmaster trigger block at 1.5 lb with the pretravel adjusted out and the reset adjusted quicker and you may change your mind. Now if your talking about a stock trigger I fully agree.

Edit: to add for those who have this trigger block if you adjust the pretravel to much you will disable the trigger safety if you do this back it out a touch and try again, this is a real fine adjustment it may take you 5 or 6 trys to get it right.

Edited by Rick88
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Your gunsmith could probably do the same thing to your glock if you have the adjustable block. Or you can do it yourself, these are drop in triggers that will work good out of the box but fine tuning is needed if you want it to be really good.

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