stoning-polishing trigger rebound place

[Patrick1981]

Hello!

I have two deep signs on the portion of the frame where the rebound slide work.

(the slide now is ok)

What is the best job to remove it, polish and maintening a flat surface ?

Thanks

[Toolguy]

Hi Patrick-

Not sure what you are wanting to know. Do you have a picture?

[toothguy]

http://www.brownells...s-prod9618.aspx

Patrick, are you talking about the machine marks on the frame where the rebound slide contacts? If so a small india stone used on end, or a cheap flat diamond file you bend at 90 degrees will work. Probably don't need to eliminate them totally, just smooth them down. Be careful not to bend the stud.

Patrick, stai parlando della macchina dei segni sul telaio dove il rimbalzo slitta siede? In questo caso una piccola pietra d'india o un diamante economici file piegate a 90 gradi. Occorre solo li liscia non eliminarle. fare attenzione a non piegare il prigioniero.

Edited February 26, 2013 by toothguy

[4mike]

I think he is speaking about marks by non deburred rebound slide

[Patrick1981]

If I found time, I open the 686 next day and post a picture, thanks.

[Patrick1981]

Here's the pics

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/segnisubaseslitta.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/segnisubaseslittacopia.jpg/

Thanks for any advice

[Toolguy]

Hi Patrick-

You could polish the surface if you want to. The 2 marks don't affect anything. No need to worry about them.

[madone]

I just got a new 617 and it's trigger rebound was very "gritty". I opened it up and that same area pictured was like sand paper. I smoother it up with a little stoning, then some buffing. it made a world of difference in the trigger rebound. I was really surprised to see how rough it was out of the factory.

[Patrick1981]

Thanks guys

[Patrick1981]

Hi guys, after another polishing and another shooting range I hear again the "gritty" when trigger pull.
Well..I come home and open the revo, and try the trigger feel removing before the cylinder stop and after the hand.
It's defenitely only rebound slide problem.
I think and think how was possible to made this marks and maybe it was one day when I closed strong the cylinder after a stage, making
a cylinder run in clockwise direction (from me)..maybe the ratchet press on hand>trigger and the pressure make this marks on the trigger rebound slide surface. Damn.

This evening I try to put some polishing compound between slide and his running surface and make "front-back" movement a lot of time.
Nothing. The problem is still the same.
How can I restore a flat surface without an India stone ? Advice ? Thanks.

[bountyhunter]

Hello!

I have two deep signs on the portion of the frame where the rebound slide work.

(the slide now is ok)

What is the best job to remove it, polish and maintening a flat surface ?

Thanks

If you want a cheap way. I cut the end of a popsicle stick off square and wrap some 400 and 600 sandpaper around the end and oil sand it smooth. Nearly all SW's get drag marks on the frame there from the RB slide.

[Toolguy]

Hi Patrick-

That surface does not look like the problem. See if there are burrs or rough surface on the slots that go around the pin that holds the spring in. That may be rough as it travels over the pin. You can smooth that out with a diamond file. Also check the hole the spring is in. If that is rough, the spring may not compress smoothly. You can lap the hole with a close fitting wood or brass stick and some lapping compound or sandpaper on a stick or a cylindrical rubberized abrasive and Dremel tool. It sounds like the outside is pretty smooth now. Let's look at the inside.

Edited May 6, 2013 by Toolguy

[Patrick1981]

Hi, I resolve the "gritty" but made a bigger mistake.

I use a 600 stone to work..and I think I remove so much material..now the reset notch on the RB is little down than the normal position ( seems I remove 0,3 mm. between RB slide base and the frame) and sometime
in double action does not reset.

Well...it's an Idea add some materials with laser on this notch and after give it the right tall with a stone?
Last year I use laser soldering on the yoke retention place damaged (where the screw work) with succesful.

Thanks...

[Shadowrider]

Dang! That would take a serious amount of effort and determination to stone 0.012" off by hand. Are you sure of your measurement? Or did you use a dremel of some sort?

[Patrick1981]

Ok maybe not 0.012, but shure 0,008 is gone, I control with digital caliper difference from a new RB.
With laser soldering can I survive ?

[Patrick1981]

I make a little video to see the problem


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPmtGCKE390

[Tom E]

First, make sure the trigger is fully returning.

Second, trim the end of the sear slightly. There's usually a bevel on what would be the bottom right corner as seen in your video. Go slowly. Remove too much and you'll create another problem.

Did you remove material from the "nub" on the top of the rebound slide that engages the hammer and moves it back at the end of the trigger return? There's a timing sequence you can (and apparently did) screw up.

A new rebound slide might be a good idea. All you need to do is smooth off the high spots on a flat stone. You reach the point of diminishing returns very quickly.

Get Jerry Kuhnhausen's manual. It goes into sear fitting.

Jerry Miculek's "Trigger Job" video is very good. Particularly emphasizing NOT over-doing the smoothing/stoning.

Edited May 8, 2013 by Tom E

[Toolguy]

All you have to do to get the sear to reset is to file a small 45 degree angle on the bottom right corner of the sear (bottom right as we are looking at it from a side view) where it contacts the trigger.

Do a little at a time, it won't take much.

Edited May 8, 2013 by Toolguy

[bountyhunter]

Ok maybe not 0.012, but shure 0,008 is gone, I control with digital caliper difference from a new RB.

With laser soldering can I survive ?

Actually, I have run across some of the newer MIM rebound slides that were RIDICULOUSLY soft. I flat polished one on 600 paper for about 5 seconds and could not believe how much came off. The older forged slides were extremely hard, the new ones do not seem to be hardened at all or maybe they have quality problems on them.

[alecmc]

Just put of curiousity... If his springs were out of balance this might happen too right ?

Example, too light of a rebound spring, or too heavy of a main spring.

I bet if he loosened his strain screw an 1/8-1/4 turn it would reset, worth experimenting with ?

[Toolguy]

If the rebound spring is too weak for the main spring, the rebound slide will not return all the way forward. In the video the rebound slide is going all the way forward and rebounding the hammer so that is not the problem.

[alecmc]

Thanks for the input and correction, learning done b hard ... Mmkay ?

[Toolguy]

I know a lot about S&W revolvers. That is my very small niche. I visit the other forums to learn about rifle, shotgun and semi-auto pistol. Most people are good at one or a few things. We all benefit by cross training each other.

There was no put down intended, simply a factual observation. I am all for someone trying to learn more. My 2 cents is to help my fellow revo shooters.

[alecmc]

Haha, by no means did I take insult, at all !

The guys in the revo section on this forum have been absolutely instrumental in what I've learned so far for working on revolvers. It's been a great tool , along with my hands on trial and error, for learning and I always appreciate any advice, tips , or information people give.

Thank you

Alec

[Patrick1981]

TOM : Did you remove material from the "nub" on the top of the rebound slide that engages the hammer and moves it back at the end of the trigger return?

-No, I remove material on the flat of RB slide and the frame where RB slide work.

TOM : A new rebound slide might be a good idea.

-I try a new Rb slide have at home for replace, but the problem there's again.

Indeed, the reduction was greater in the frame.

I HAVE TRIED TO REDUCE THE SEAR HOW DO YOU SAY TOOLGUY TOM AND THE RESULT WAS AMAZING.

I almost solved the problem, now the trigger back well and not locks.

But I realized that there is a slight jamming as a jump in the very first time after the trigger has touched the sear.

It is not the sear moving that's for sure, it is hired well and gradually without skipping.

I also realized that this thing known more easily when the weapon is locked with the sideplate rather than open.

In the video that I made today known this.

Thanks in the meantime you are great

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=lNYVd0Ap9pA