stoning-polishing trigger rebound place

[Toolguy]

It's hard to tell because it is too dark on the parts of the gun. I think the problem is the sear is catching on the top of the trigger momentarily, then going forward. If that is the problem, do this - First take the sear out of the hammer and stone the bottom where it contacts the trigger so the front part of the sear is a little lower than the rear part. The way to stone this and keep it square is to put a square stone on a hard flat surface and pull the end of the sear along the side of the stone with the sear lying on the flat surface.

Only take off a little material. Put the sear back in the hammer and try it. Repeat as necessary. You want the front tip of the sear to touch the trigger first. If that does not solve the problem, take a little material off the top of the sear where it contacts the front of the hammer. The idea is to allow the sear to kick out forward just a little more and make first contact with the trigger farther forward. You must take care that the sear does not go forward far enough to hit on the trigger as it comes down from being released when the action is cycled.

Just wondering - why is the end of your gun taped up?

Edited May 9, 2013 by Toolguy

[Tom E]

Unfortunately your video is backlit and doesn't illuminate up the area we need to see. At least on my laptops' screen.

That aside, I'm with Toolguy. A little more judicous stoning of the sears' tip is probably in order. The other thing I wonder is if you've already done enough for the gun to run with your new rebound slide installed. How the sear is fitted is dependent on how (and how much) the hammer is moved rearward by the rebound slide as it moves forward.

[Patrick1981]

Hi Guys I replay first to Toolguy.

No, the problem is not the sear catching.

I know what you mean, it happens when I tried to install an old damaged sear have at home..

After I try to cycle the gun without the cylinder stop and the thing seems going well..than I replace the cylinder stop with a new one (love spare parts) but the probem still again..

If I want now I can shoot it, but I'm not satisfied because there are still uncertainties..

I try also with a new sear but this gritty there's again and is not the movement you mentioned, even with the new sear also seems to be fine, strange that full-size sear back to me all the trigger (mysteries).

For Tom: I work on the gun only with the older RB slide. Tomorrow I try with it if there's some differences.

Thanks guys and excuse me for the low light quality of last video.

Tape on the front sight is to prevent a damage of my SDM fiber optic

[Tom E]

I try to cycle the gun without the cylinder stop and the thing seems going well..than I replace the cylinder stop with a new one (love spare parts) but the probem still again..

Read this thread: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=173981

[Patrick1981]

Yes, I read some days ago but I don't stoning every thing of this parts, trigger notch of the CS and the cylinder stop are original size.