amish_rabbi Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 once you start pushing and pulling on little nodes instead of driving things with more control and math you give up, well - control. It's quick and dirty, heavy on the dirty, you really need to know what you are doing if you want high quality stuff. It looks cool in demos though. I feel the same, but I wonder if that is just me being more engineering based than design based. I go nuts if I have undefined sketches when im "done" with a model. (also when I open "done" models from other people, but that's a different story....) dskinsler83 did you ever get a glock slide? I have one I can pass along Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 no i didn't sir. also what am i doing wrong with grab cad that i cant get files to import from the saved files to fusion 360 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 This stuff is aggravating ugh lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Not having a background in this nor the actual time to sit and watch videos is hindering me a TON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Open1215 Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Stick w it. I'm doing the opposite at the moment. Doing more and more manual jogging for small stuff and jig building. I used to f360 then cnc 95% of everything. It's a fun and frustrating thing to self teach. It can be quite costly as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joerocket Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 So all the new stuff is up and running. Got the motion controller and Mach3 configured. I also go the wireless Mach3 pendant and that is pretty neat! I also just traded for a custom V-Twin Pro Street motorcycle and will not be making chips this weekend but will be crusing this new toy all around east Mesa! No way a bike! Enjoy and remember. All the gear all the time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Open1215 Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 My latest fora class 3 dealer. Going to have a new design for him Monday. 6061 aluminum. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redstag Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 My latest fora class 3 dealer. Going to have a new design for him Monday. 6061 aluminum. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk You need to turn and gun drill the core first before you cnc the baffle's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Open1215 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Not being rude but what does the pre drilling help? With no hole there is no issue. If i do the hole 1st my friend has to be there for the process. The lathe cut hole didnt have any issues just thin walls. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redstag Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 I turn the OD, gun drill, and tap in one operation just to keep everything concentric. Chucking it up on a lathe after the baffles are cut you will be fighting some deflection, but i suppose if you have a large through hole then your probably fine. If i had to machine this way i would look into making some 3/4 soft jaws to support the baffle. On another note i have found the attached baffle design to be quieter then having all of the chambers angled in one direction, I also would use 7076 aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Open1215 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 7075 is my 1st choice. Im trying to find it in the diameter i need so i wont have to turn it. I am looking at a pilot hole for final production. They are a local class 3 dealer and will want a lot of them once we get a design locked in. Im avoiding doing the holes for a few reasons. If they need one for 9mm and the dealer can lathe the final hole and be all set. That way i can make the full order and move on. Not make 10 for each caliber or have to make them as orders come in. I would like to do out of titanium eventually. We will see how it goes. Deflection didn't appear to be an issue. Im not 100% on that as i wasn't there when he drilled it. I need to get a small lathe for the shop. If he wants production on these that will be 1 of the tools I purchase 1st. So i can turn and do a pilot hole ensuring everything stays concentric. The one picture is one of many "test samples" i am making for them. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amish_rabbi Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 As long as the guy dials it up the the lathe properly doing the holes afterwards could work, its just not ideal. Might even be a better idea to do the hole, threading ect for the smallest caliber he wants to sell it for and then that will be an even better guide if he bores it out. Looks like you got a little thin on your baffle edges there though. As extruded aluminum is not awesome dimensionally (I feel like I just made that word up...) for finish wise, It would be a good idea to use 1" stock and have your design diameter be 0.990 just so you get a smooth exterior at a dimension you can count on. and for what its worth, I like the specs on 7050 aluminum better than 7075 but that's not easy to find either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Open1215 Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Yes. The walls where thin on the 1st one. I would like to go 1.250 and turn to 1.125 and do a small center guide hole. Again that's once in production. I would also like to go titanium. I'm delivering the next design tomorrow. Much thicker walls, different design altogether. Hopefully this will work out. If not I'll highly recommend titanium. Its just a LOT more then aluminum. Obviously. Lol 100$ for 12in. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amish_rabbi Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) Lol, hey thats not bad, im buying timascus for some rings and its $100 for 1" Edited March 8, 2016 by amish_rabbi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Open1215 Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Agreed. you get what you pay for. You want a quality product you pay for quality materials. 10-15 test designs go cheaper in aluminum. I really hope I will be able to get my customer to agree. I like aluminum for tests. I have several aluminum blanks for comps in want to try. Crazy designs. They may be great they may suck. Testing is 1 thing. Putting my name on a final product is a different ball game. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SV650Squid Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 So, I've spent the last 3 days reading this thread and absorbing as much knowledge elsewhere possible. Its been amazing. I'm currently deployed, but I think ill be able to swing an LMS mini mill, cnc conversion, and accessories when I get home. My plan is to work on my guns and simple projects and see where it takes me. I operated a cnc lathe for Stanley tools for a short period (6 months or so) about 13 years ago before I enlisted, and I've wanted to really learn cnc machining ever since. One question, I've seen some cutting tools mentioned, but could I get a list of some of the most common ones/sizes used for gun projects (end/ball mills, facing, cutting dovetails, etc)? I'm guessing its going to be multiples of a few different sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 So, I've spent the last 3 days reading this thread and absorbing as much knowledge elsewhere possible. Its been amazing. I'm currently deployed, but I think ill be able to swing an LMS mini mill, cnc conversion, and accessories when I get home. My plan is to work on my guns and simple projects and see where it takes me. I operated a cnc lathe for Stanley tools for a short period (6 months or so) about 13 years ago before I enlisted, and I've wanted to really learn cnc machining ever since. One question, I've seen some cutting tools mentioned, but could I get a list of some of the most common ones/sizes used for gun projects (end/ball mills, facing, cutting dovetails, etc)? I'm guessing its going to be multiples of a few different sizes. For me it breaks down into square end and ball end, 2 flute and 4 flute. I always try to get double ended mills if they're available, little bit cheaper than buying two individual ones. Sizes are tough to recommend, kinda project dependent. You couldn't go wrong with 1/8 and 1/4 in your inventory though. Ball and square of each, 2 flute for aluminum and 4 flute for steel. Maritool.com and lakeshorecarbide.com are vendors I've used and like very much. You can get a face mill from Shars.com pretty cheap and get inserts for it on ebay. Somewhere in this thread StraightupOg got one. I use mine like a flycutter with just one insert most often. Dovetails are gonna be for whatever sights you are installing. Brownells will have the sizes you need. Welcome to an awesome hobby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amish_rabbi Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 So will bump this for a question, what size are you guys boring 9mm comps at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joerocket Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Thanks Don it sure is fun! So I had a pucker factor 11, I broke a tap!!! But I was resolute that I would prevail and I did. I took my time and milled out the broken tap and got lucky that there was still enough meat to re-tap the hole. WHEW!!!! On to the next project! I fired this a few months ago! Great little car gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 This is my comp blank design. It's for a commander 9mm trubor blank. What do you think? I have this one and a simular one that has the 4 holes at a 90* so they look like a V ports but are not. The holes in the one pictured are at 105*. I know this is a while ago now but did you ever try a comp like this with the holes in the first part of the T2 blank? I saw someone saying holes are for barrels and chambers for comps but I've actually seen a couple designs done this way (including of course the limcat ones) that seemed to work really well. One was a comp similar to a SV type comp with 2 large chambers, 2 small side bleeders and then had 3 holes about where yours are (arranged in a triangle, looked cool). It seems to shoot really nicely. The other is on my gun. It's an SV with schuemann ultimatch barrel. In the first part of the comp are 2 pretty big square popple holes then the usual 3 up chambers and 2 side bleeders. I've only shot it a little bit so far (with 3N38 loads and some autocomp loads) but it also runs very nicely. since you're doing this on the mill using the trubor blanks you could do some cool stuff with square holes too. I've wondered if they actually do anything, but they certainly look cool and show off the machining of the part (bit hard to make square holes with a drill!). this is the SV one I'm talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Also I should mention for practicing tri-stops and slide cuts etc there is a place that sells super cheap cast 1911 slides. they are not usable on a gun but are great for machining practice. I think cost about $15 each from memory. Very soft to machine too so should be kind on the tools. I tried googling for the site but my google fu must be weak today. Hopefully someone will know wth I'm talking about! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Open1215 Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Beerbaron I hadn't had a chance to do so yet. I definitely plan on playing with compensator designs a lot more. I would like to do more with the trueborn blanks as well. Thank you for the heads-up about the slides. I will definitely look into that. It would be nice to have four or five designs cut out to take two different matches and show my work. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joerocket Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 I like your idea for the slide racker. I started visualizing different configs. Love the ball cut relief on the back of the slide for thumb clearance! Maybe on the next one! ************* Here is my grip write up. I posted this before when I did a different grip but the process I used is the same. ************* I first used a dremel with a router/square end mill bit and roughed up the surface taking down the diamond checkering. I used air to blow off the surface and tried to touch it as little as possible to keep it oil free. I used all purpose painters tape to tape off the edges with an exacto knife. I bought from harbor freight their rock polishing media kit for $19 it has 4 types of polishing media in it but I only wanted it for the coarse grit. I believe the coarse grit is a combo 60/80 grit. I then mixed up some JB weld epoxy used a small paint brush to apply the epoxy covering the surface completely but not to thick. Then poured the grit onto the grip, kinda like we did as kids in arts and crafts with glitter and Elmers glue. I patted it down lightly then poured it over grip again. I did this three times to make sure it had complete coverage. I waited 30 mins for it to start setting up the I gently peeled the tape. Once that was done, since the epoxy was still pliable, I tried to push down any high spots but be gentle you don't want the grit to come off. Then let it cure for another 15 hours a and now she is a shooter. I tried this on a magazine extension. Worked perfectly! I think the coarse is too coarse for me. I need to get a medium grit and try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Man I ordered the CNC Conversion Kit, now gotta work up enough funding for the electronics to work it and still gotta LEARN THE SH*& lol. What was everyone been up to lately this thread used to pop every day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 I have built a 1911, a 2011 and multiple sight cuts and barrel fits for the business lately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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