Redstag

I turn the OD, gun drill, and tap in one operation just to keep everything concentric. Chucking it up on a lathe after the baffles are cut you will be fighting some deflection, but i suppose if you have a large through hole then your probably fine. If i had to machine this way i would look into making some 3/4 soft jaws to support the baffle. On another note i have found the attached baffle design to be quieter then having all of the chambers angled in one direction, I also would use 7076 aluminum.

You need to turn and gun drill the core first before you cnc the baffle's.

Yeah, probably went to far Jid2, originally I was just curious if your fixture had a adjustment for leveling the top of the slide and it sounds like its machined so the top is level when you slide it onto the fixture and there is no indicating in to do.

Maybe for the fixture make a sine the slide mounts into for leveling instead of jack screws that are hard to get at once the slide is mounted. Tap the sine on each end so when its tighten it draws it in tight against the block it fits in.

And to get these numbers subtract the difference from work coordinate values from the absolute values from x and y. And when you draw it in cad or dxf you can draw it straight because its easier, use the numbers to find the angle then rotate the drawing accordingly. But then your x zero changes so it throws more pieces into the puzzle.

You would probably have to probe each side, look at the X and Y zero's at one end then the other, plot the to points in cad then snap a line then draw. That will solve the issue when you rotate to 90 and 270, just another step.

Perhaps, thought about that also. I haven't seen a macro program for a renshaw type probe that communicates back the two measurements that feeds it back to the cam software. That definitely would be one way around it. Probably would have to do step 2 you mentioned and each slide may be a little different.

No, the jig works fine because you can unclamp and adjust accordingly until the slide is level when working on the top. Tri- topping with the jig is a different story if your using the jigs 45 degree cuts though.

Understood, and sorry about sounding crass dsk. If you measure a 1911 slide it is tapered from back to the front from the bottom of slide to the top, so when you indicate the top level the bottom of the slide is no longer level. I was asking when using the setup that was posted using a rotary axis with a tombstone type fixture if there was a adjustment built in to it for adjusting the slide level. And when you rotate the A axis 90 degrees to machine the sides of the slide the bottom of the slide will no longer be parallel to the X axis. Straight up, sorry. I often have friends over and show them how to use indicators and how to machine and tram there machines in and I am actually all about helping too.

EGW or SV # 1

Yes, of course preferably interapid brand ! That's not the question. If your not a machinist or engineer you probably wont understand.

jid2, When you mount the slide into the fixture how do you level the top ? Does the mount for the slide have adjustments up and down for this ? Or did you machine the rail slots on the typical angle to account for the slides taper? Taking this into account when working on the sides of the slide at 90 and 270 degrees with this setup and lets say your milling panels or cuts that do not pass all the way through the slide your cuts will be tapered or not straight front to back at the bottom of the slide, usually your 0 or straight line would be the bottom of the slide. I suppose you could draw all the feature's in CAD/CAM with this angle built in and be within .004 or some from one gun to the next...but ? Like I said, I was thinking of making a fixture but keep thinking about this road block.

Nice, I have wanted to do a setup like this on my 4th axis also, it would be cool to just machine everything at once.

I just did a commander top end that is really close to that pattern. You have to play with your depths a little to get the right affect too.

Just wanted to give a update on my post about the Metaloy issue I had. We stripped the chrome, refinished the slides and Metaloy is paying for the shipping and re-chrome. Chris at Metaloy was very easy to work with and if your not happy with the results they do stand behind there work.

They both were polished exactly the same as the one on the right, they decided to bead blast after being told not to. That was the issue,

After 3 attached

Just received back a couple guns from Metaloy and I am very disappointed. The chrome itself is perfect with no blotches or flaking, however they were given specific instructions NOT to bead blast, and that all finishing was complete and I wanted AS IS. (sent and email and even put a note in the box) Both guns had and panels, inlays and were surface ground on the sides and top. This is very frustrating after all the time building these guns and metal finishing, well see how they respond. Pics attached, in photo after3 is what the sides are suppose to look like and you can see how dull the transitions are.

In regards to indicating a slide in using a Yavapari Jig as everyone knows these are not always machined level or square. What I did was indicate the slide level, indicate the Z on the slide, indicated the X in along the slide then I flat topped and milled the sides of the slide. Then clamp the slide in the vise on parallels then mill the sides of the fixture and the bottom( which is on top now). Next time you have a slide to work on this will get you within a few thousands right from the start and save time on a lot of indicating. And of course only do all of this if your mill is trammed in and vise indicated square.

Built a 6 inch gun a couple years ago and now my 5 inch sight tracker is my back up gun. Building another 6 inch right now, unique slide cut down to almost a classic style.

Yes, this will affect the accuracy. But there are a few questions that need to be asked, why is there a longer link in the gun then what the lower lugs were cut for? Was to much material removed accidently? If it is not to far off changing the link and installing a oversized slide release pin might save you, if not weld the lower lugs and re-cut. And if you just change the link to a shorter one your barrel will not be locked up all the way. If the guns upper lugs are being pushed up into engagement by just the width of the barrel link it will not lock up the same consistently, the only pressure exerted to the barrel link and pin should be just the swinging of the barrel up until the slide stop hits the lower lugs and down until it hits the rear impact of the frame. Eventually your link or pin will break.

Tormach has a spindle multiplier for around $1500 that fits any standard Bridgeport size quills.

The tooling marks aren't that bad, a 320 grit stone takes the machining marks out in no time. Just take multiple passes conventional cutting and clean up climb cutting on the way back, especially if your doing it on a manual mill with acme screws, also snug the table locks down to help with any chatter.The attached pic is after milling.

Also for tri-topping a .750 4 flute carbide 90 degree chamfer tool works well, just indicate the slide level and work off the centerline to get the depths even, quick and easy setup, no tilting of the head or tables needed. Cutter is top right in the picture.

30% burnt bronze, 70% graphite black.