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Picking up an unfinished 3gun AR15 project


chaosshooter00

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I came across a deal and couldn't resist. I'm picking up an AR15 for a 3gun project that isn't finished. Going sight unseen, so all I have is a partial parts list. My first comp AR so let me know what you think and which direction you would go.

Parts List:

20" barrel

Jp single stage trigger

free float stock

Miculeck comp

mag release

bolt release

red dot

cocking arm for bolt

swing arm safety

Believe it or not, that's all the info I have, but should take possession soon. I just ordered a MOA stock from the classifieds, as it doesn't have one. I have three weeks to get this ready for the first local comp., so tear it up. I will answer parts questions as soon as I pick it up. Thanks

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I back ordered 10 AR lowers from Brownells and just received a notice that they shipped 12-26. I also ordered uppers and they are still out of stock. If you can find an upper, lower and BCG from somebody that will accept a backorder you should jump on it. Don't compromise your build using any unkown brands.

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Okay, so I gathered some more info. and am still a little clueless on which way to proceed. The lower is a Plum Crazy, the upper is a DPMS, all I could figure on the trigger is it is from Brownells and has a low mass hammer, NCStar reddot. Can't figure the barrel out, where would I look? I currently have a Sig 516 that's still stock, so if need be I'll use it for my first comp. What kind of optic would you suggest for a new 3gun'r, load info., and do I need a sling or anything else for it? Thanks

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I would not use a Plum Crazy for anything but a range toy at best.

The barrel should have some marking on the exterior, closer to the chamber.

Burris Tac30 or MTAC is a great scope that will serve you well for many years and not break the bank.

You should get a sling.

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Plum crazy has there own fire control group and its likely what your seeing. I dont know if they have a "low mass hammer" but I do know the trigger in the ones I have handled is a cut above a standard AR trigger. That being said everyone poo poos on the plum crazy stuff because they are cheap and plastic. I certainly wouldnt sink a bunch of money in to a competition gun based on a plum crazy.

If you want to talk optics I presume you plan on shooting in the tac optics division, I suggest you do a search on here and do some reading. The question of "what optic for a 3gun newb" gets posted here weekly, no need to go down that road. Same with load data, If you want load data go look in the reloading section of this forum. At most 3gun distances just about any cheap ammo will be good enough (better ammo is more consistent and thus more accurate, however you wont see that untill past 2-300yds).

I look at AR's like this: better barrels and triggers will give accuracy, bolts will make it strike and eject as they should , good magazines and ammo are necessary for it to be reliable.

Dont get hung up on having all of the best stuff for starting out in 3gun, get out and shoot! Trigger time will make you better, not fancy guns.

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Plum crazy has there own fire control group and its likely what your seeing. I dont know if they have a "low mass hammer" but I do know the trigger in the ones I have handled is a cut above a standard AR trigger. That being said everyone poo poos on the plum crazy stuff because they are cheap and plastic. I certainly wouldnt sink a bunch of money in to a competition gun based on a plum crazy.

If you want to talk optics I presume you plan on shooting in the tac optics division, I suggest you do a search on here and do some reading. The question of "what optic for a 3gun newb" gets posted here weekly, no need to go down that road. Same with load data, If you want load data go look in the reloading section of this forum. At most 3gun distances just about any cheap ammo will be good enough (better ammo is more consistent and thus more accurate, however you wont see that untill past 2-300yds).

I look at AR's like this: better barrels and triggers will give accuracy, bolts will make it strike and eject as they should , good magazines and ammo are necessary for it to be reliable.

Dont get hung up on having all of the best stuff for starting out in 3gun, get out and shoot! Trigger time will make you better, not fancy guns.

I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I don't buy into having to have the best of the best either, especially for something I haven't done yet. I'm going to be in the whole thing under a grand and am trying to get feelers as to a direction to take it if I do decide to continue competing. Everybody has their favorite this and that, but I don't usually buy until I have data to back it up. This one is a fluke purchase, more based on affordability. Thanks
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I bought a Miculek Comp when i first tried shooting carbines and a friend offered his rifle for me to shoot with an SJC Comp it was night and day difference. I would suggest considering a Benny Hill or SJC Comp. as a possible upgrade.

Tom

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I bought a Miculek Comp when i first tried shooting carbines and a friend offered his rifle for me to shoot with an SJC Comp it was night and day difference. I would suggest considering a Benny Hill or SJC Comp. as a possible upgrade.

Tom

Been trying to get my hands on some different AR's to play with, but locally, all the sheep gather at the same waterhole.Thanks for the idea, that's what I'm looking for.
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I bought a Miculek Comp when i first tried shooting carbines and a friend offered his rifle for me to shoot with an SJC Comp it was night and day difference. I would suggest considering a Benny Hill or SJC Comp. as a possible upgrade.

Tom

Were the two rifles identical (or nearly identical)? It sounds like you had a Miculek on a carbine, and an SJC on a rifle. Many variables contribute to the feel (felt recoil, muzzle rise, etc.), including gas tube length, barrel weight/balance, etc.

I've got/shot both of those comps on nearly identical rifles and find very little difference in feel. Certainly NOT a "night and day difference" for me. Both are very effective.

YMMV,

ac

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I bought a Miculek Comp when i first tried shooting carbines and a friend offered his rifle for me to shoot with an SJC Comp it was night and day difference. I would suggest considering a Benny Hill or SJC Comp. as a possible upgrade.

Tom

Were the two rifles identical (or nearly identical)? It sounds like you had a Miculek on a carbine, and an SJC on a rifle. Many variables contribute to the feel (felt recoil, muzzle rise, etc.), including gas tube length, barrel weight/balance, etc.

I've got/shot both of those comps on nearly identical rifles and find very little difference in feel. Certainly NOT a "night and day difference" for me. Both are very effective.

YMMV,

ac

AC, I just got that same question from one of the locals. How do I know if it's a carbine or a rifle? Now I'm wondering about the one I'm getting. Thanks
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Carbine generally 16" barrel, Rifle generally 20" barrel. Since the discussion is about the Comp this has more to do with the weight and length than the location of the gas port.

Yes the discussion is about the comp - which is a discussion of reduced felt recoil/muzzle movement, right? Recognizing that the location of the gas port (i.e.: gas tube length) has an effect on the reciprocation of the bolt carrier (a relatively high-mass part), i.e.: carbine-length gas is more sudden/violent than rifle-length gas, and therefor has an effect on felt recoil/muzzle movement (which is what we're discussing, right?), then I'm inclined to believe that gas tube length is comparable in significance to this topic as barrel length/weight is. Thoughts?

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I bought a Miculek Comp when i first tried shooting carbines and a friend offered his rifle for me to shoot with an SJC Comp it was night and day difference. I would suggest considering a Benny Hill or SJC Comp. as a possible upgrade.

Tom

Were the two rifles identical (or nearly identical)? It sounds like you had a Miculek on a carbine, and an SJC on a rifle. Many variables contribute to the feel (felt recoil, muzzle rise, etc.), including gas tube length, barrel weight/balance, etc.

I've got/shot both of those comps on nearly identical rifles and find very little difference in feel. Certainly NOT a "night and day difference" for me. Both are very effective.

YMMV,

ac

AC, I just got that same question from one of the locals. How do I know if it's a carbine or a rifle? Now I'm wondering about the one I'm getting. Thanks

Chaos,

Some people use the terms interchangeably. Dictionaries usually define a "carbine" as being a rifle fitted with a shorter-than-standard barrel. ARs had been standardized at 20" barrels, and later 16" barrel models became popular and are commonly called carbines. Your actual barrel length matters more than what you call it. I could call myself Brad Pitt, or Daniel Horner, but I'd still just be me. Please excuse my poor attempt at humor.

Best,

ac

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AC, I think you just insulted Horner...

Load, reciprocating mass, hold, gas length, gas port size, gun mass, comp all affect felt recoil and return to original POA, and differently per shooter.

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I bought a Miculek Comp when i first tried shooting carbines and a friend offered his rifle for me to shoot with an SJC Comp it was night and day difference. I would suggest considering a Benny Hill or SJC Comp. as a possible upgrade.

Tom

Were the two rifles identical (or nearly identical)? It sounds like you had a Miculek on a carbine, and an SJC on a rifle. Many variables contribute to the feel (felt recoil, muzzle rise, etc.), including gas tube length, barrel weight/balance, etc.

I've got/shot both of those comps on nearly identical rifles and find very little difference in feel. Certainly NOT a "night and day difference" for me. Both are very effective.

YMMV,

ac

AC, I just got that same question from one of the locals. How do I know if it's a carbine or a rifle? Now I'm wondering about the one I'm getting. Thanks

Chaos,

Some people use the terms interchangeably. Dictionaries usually define a "carbine" as being a rifle fitted with a shorter-than-standard barrel. ARs had been standardized at 20" barrels, and later 16" barrel models became popular and are commonly called carbines. Your actual barrel length matters more than what you call it. I could call myself Brad Pitt, or Daniel Horner, but I'd still just be me. Please excuse my poor attempt at humor.

Best,

ac

ac, it was humor, not an attempt. I kind of need to know these things and appreciate those of you who dumb it down. I currently own a Sig 516 and am currently trying to get that 20" the thread is based on. I guess I'll have one of each when the dust clears. Thanks for your time.
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AC, I think you just insulted Horner...

Load, reciprocating mass, hold, gas length, gas port size, gun mass, comp all affect felt recoil and return to original POA, and differently per shooter.

Mark,

Ouch! Really? Certainly not my intent. What was the insult to Horner (sorry, I'm clueless).

I completely agree with your statement above regarding different factors on felt recoil/muzzle movement - that was what I was trying to hint at in my earlier post (without bogging the reader down with too many details.

Best,

ac

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ac, it was humor, not an attempt. I kind of need to know these things and appreciate those of you who dumb it down. I currently own a Sig 516 and am currently trying to get that 20" the thread is based on. I guess I'll have one of each when the dust clears. Thanks for your time.

Chaos,

You're too kind - my humor is pretty weak.

I'm happy to help.

Don't worry, your project will turn out fine.

Best,

ac

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, I finally picked up the gun that started this thread. I put the buffer tube assembly on and it fits real loose. The spring and buffer don't stay in the tube, which makes it exciting when you pull the pin and open the upper and lower. Yes, I am new to this, but I'm thinking that I may have gotten the wrong buffer tube assembly for the PlumCrazy lower. I need a lot of help here guys, any ideas. Thanks

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The ID should be the same. Did you install a buffer retainer?

FWIW, I don't run a buffer retainer pin in any AR. They are prone to break and jam up. In polymer lowers, they are a location which has some decent stress and are prone to induce fracture, so I really don't like them in polymer lowers.

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