Need some Steel Plate Help

[Sarge]

I am getting a great deal on some 8" plates locally. AR 500 stuff. I have a guy on staff who can weld but can't cut the AR 500. I'm going to have the guy making the plates cut the small piece to weld to the bottom of the plate to sit it on. I also want him to do the platform that will be welded to a piece of rebar or steel bar.

Can anybody shed any light on the dimensions that work best for all the assorted parts that go into sitting the plate onthe platform? Length, width, etc?

Do those parts need to be AR 500?

I am hoping somebody shooting a match this weekend could snap a pic or two and get me some rough measurements.

Thanks

Kevin

[QuePsiPhiSmkr]

Do you need height and width dimensions, if so, it is in the rule book on the USPSA site under the steel challenge section...

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

[Sarge]

Please read the post again. This is not SC related. These are falling plates for USPSA I'm talking about.

[wes777]

i have the plates and rebar stands. mine have a 3x3 inch stand welded on rebar. the plates also have a 3x3 inch piece welded at an angle so that the plate will balance on the stand. The piece on the target is AR 500 because the plate deflects down and thinner steel will give way. Pm me if you need pics.

[PopPop]

I use squares cut from 2 1/2" (1/4" to 3/8" thick) mild steel flat bar for the bases. Plenty durable, available and cost effective.

[Seth Long]

It does not need to be ar500 for the base, a small rectangle works best. If you have some machine shops around sometimes you can get drops in the size you need for scrap price.

[LSnSC]

I use 3/8" x 2" flat stock for the bases and 5/8 cold rolled rod for the stands. The bases in the plates and stands are 3" long.

[Sarge]

I'm trying to picture all the various ideas mentioned. I get the plate on a rod. But as far as the plate goes, is the tab welded to the plate at an angle on the back of the plate which allows the round bottom of the plate to hang over the plate on the rod? Seems like this would deflect rounds upward? If the tab is on the front of the plate then some of the plate is taken away by the tab? What if the round hits the tab only and knocks the plate off? REF No? Or hits the tab and does NOT knock the plate off?

I'm picturing the tab being on the back of the plate with the plate lightly leaned back. seems like the plate would be hard to knock off the rod especially with a minor gun.

I guess I need clarification.

[JeremyM]

I have never had luck with welds holding up on AR 500. After a lot of hits the welds crack, but maybe it's my skill level. I like to bolt to AR 500. If you want picts. of our plates on a stand, I can get some tomorrow

[DKSComp]

I have never had luck with welds holding up on AR 500. After a lot of hits the welds crack, but maybe it's my skill level. I like to bolt to AR 500. If you want picts. of our plates on a stand, I can get some tomorrow

Jeremy is correct-------don't bother welding AR500----will give you nothing but bad experience.

Dave Schattel

[DKSComp]

Best advice you can get on AR 500 is fron Kimball Bowden----Bobcat steel---Shelbyville, In

406 570 4373 kimball@bobcatsteel.com www.bobcatsteel.com

Dave Schattel

[Chills1994]

You have to really ask yourself this especially if this is for individual use, for practice, do I really want a falling plate?

Is my time on the practice range better spent shooting or going forward to reset steel targets all the time?

[Chills1994]

If this is for individual practice use with .45 ACP, .40, 9mm Minor, regular A36 steel will work just fine.

If for 9mm Major or centerfire rifle, then yeah, you're gonna want AR500.

When I make poppers, I have the plasmaCAM set up to do bolt holes. There are a few reasons for this, but one of which is the ability to turn it around if it starts to cup.

[Sarge]

Plates are for matches.

[jmorris]

You have to really ask yourself this especially if this is for individual use, for practice, do I really want a falling plate?

Is my time on the practice range better spent shooting or going forward to reset steel targets all the time?

Poor video but the steel here is what I practice with here at the house. Only have to walk down if you want to repaint.

Have to click on photo to play.

Edited December 29, 2012 by jmorris

[Jaxshooter]

If you are going to use rebar with retangular steel bases to sit the plates on make sure you run a bead on the back edge of the base so the plate can't turn sideways from a hit and not fall. You will eliminate a bunch of reshoots if the plates can't turn sideways.

[Sarge]

If you are going to use rebar with retangular steel bases to sit the plates on make sure you run a bead on the back edge of the base so the plate can't turn sideways from a hit and not fall. You will eliminate a bunch of reshoots if the plates can't turn sideways.

Yeah, the ones around here have a small strip of steel actually welded on them. Will a simple bead of weld work as well?

[jmorris]

1/4" square bar is a lot faster to weld on than running a bead that thick.

[medic2264]

You need to heat up AR500 before you can weld it, not with a torch, but controlled in an oven. It needs to be heated to a specific temp for a specific time. Also, I think there is a special type of rod or wire they use to form the weld. I would check with someone who welds up buckets / blades used on loaders / dozers. Those welders have experience working with abrasion resistant steel, and know what works and what doesn't.

Edited January 9, 2013 by medic2264

[jmorris]

Most of us that weld up blades or cutting edges on equipment use a "hard surface" rod on the edge itself or heat treat the part we weld on and then weld it to the implement behind the cutting edge.

Like these. . That fit onto the non hardened surface.

http://www.burkinaequipements.com/en/after-sales/pointes.html

Or bolt on an edge like these. http://www.colemanequip.com/TeethAndEdges.asp if you have to.

Edited January 9, 2013 by jmorris