300 yd zero

[TommyD]

Right now I am assembling my AR setup for 3 gun. Just waiting on my front sight rail to ship in for my JP handguard.

Saw this video and am planning on using the 300yd zero. I like that you can shoot at 36 and have it be very similar to a 300.

What do you think?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iCNIRuQuBg

[steviesterno]

makes sense if you can do it. I personally run a 50-200 because

a) I don't have a 300 yard range to zero

we shoot clays with rifle close. That's when weird holdovers become a beast, and this one is easy to remember for me.

I guess it depends on what distance you're thinking and what your targets will be.

[a.roberts]

I don't know how well it would work with .223 but it works great with 5.56 ammo. I use a 300yd zero with MK318 in my 16" AR. Works great as I use that one as a general purpose/ranch rifle.

[co-exprs]

For irons and 1x, 300yd zero is great. Easy hold overs and unders out to 400 with a near 25yd crossover. 25yd crossover makes for easy holds on tight shots inside a 50yd berm.

[Stlhead]

If your goal is to get hits on a torrso sized target out to 300 yards then nearly any zero will work. The rub gets to be when you are trying to hit a skinny Sammy at 100 or a 6" dueling tree at 150. If you don't know your zero and your actual (confirmed) hold overs for the load you are using in the gun you are using the harder shots in our game can cause some grief. It is painful to watch a competitor bang away at a target for a minute or more just to time out and take the miss (or misses and FTE's) anyway. Knowing your zero and your hold overs cold along with not going all Ike Turner on the trigger will go a long way toward hitting all the rifle steel.

[Robbie]

I use an ACOG 4X32 and use a 300 yd zero, with Hornady 75 grain Steel Match. I hold at 6 o'clock for anything 100-200 yds and center at 300. Most matches I shoot only go out to 300. Makes it pretty easy for my simple mind.

Edited October 9, 2012 by Robbie

[kellyn]

The 300 yard or even meter zero is very effective for iron sighted rifles. It allows for a 6 o'clock "pumpkin on the post" hold for nearly every commonly encountered target. BUT a 300 yard zero with a 55 grain bullet/3150 fps is almost 5 inches above the tip of the post at approx 150-175 yards and 6 inches high with a 75/77 grain bullet/2650-2700 fps. Just be aware of that.

It is not a bad idea to know both your 200 and 300 zeros and adjust accordingly.

[Ten-X]

I shoot irons and prefer a 200 yard Zero but I only shoot on the east coast where 400 yard shots are very rare. I like that it's nearly zero (within an inch) for everything from 50 to 200. I know clicks for a 300 yard zero. I don't have a range to practice past that though and that has bit me twice so far. Need to find a range to get my drops at extended distances. I don't have a lot of confidence in the calculators, they are close but never check with my range practice exactly.

[Alaskapopo]

I shoot irons and prefer a 200 yard Zero but I only shoot on the east coast where 400 yard shots are very rare. I like that it's nearly zero (within an inch) for everything from 50 to 200. I know clicks for a 300 yard zero. I don't have a range to practice past that though and that has bit me twice so far. Need to find a range to get my drops at extended distances. I don't have a lot of confidence in the calculators, they are close but never check with my range practice exactly.

I have been pretty lucky with calculators but then I make sure I put in all the information exactly from actual velocity, to height over bore. I have found it always to be on with in 1 click on my scope (.5 moa)

pat

[Bullittmcqueen]

I personally am a big proponent of the 100 yard zero, as it simplifies holdovers to a minimum and keeps everything within a 3 inch circle of your point of aim out to around 200 yards or so. This is the perfect zero for three gun, as knowing exact distances is less important, and as long as you are allowed at least 3 inches of error (I.e. two hits on target anywhere) there is little to no guessing as to where to aim.

The 50/200 would be my second choice, and only then the 25/300 zero last. There is a huge amount of bullet arc and a complex amount of holdovers you must remember in addition to knowing the distances to targets. Much of this goes right out the window under the duress of a timer.

[Shooter115]

I use a 100 yard zero for 3gun just cause the hold overs out to 500 yards are dead nutz on with the dots on my MTAC.

[Religious Shooter]

I use 300 for Limited (iron sights). Inserted lollipop hold out to 300 yards.

I use 200 for optics. I can hold center of mass (COM) on a 10" circle until about 260-270 yards with 75's.

I don't use a 100 yard zero for 3gun. With a 100 yard zero I find that I need to start holding over at 250 on that 10" circle. So a 200 yard zero extends my COM hold by 10-20 yards.

~220-230 yard zero is actually the best zero for a COM hold for 3 gun.

I currently use a 100 yard zero for precision rifle.

[TommyD]

Looks like I've got some experimenting to do! My plans are to run iron sights, guess Ill have to see how far out the matches around me shoot out to.

[abn-rgr]

I run a 300 yard zero on my swarvo. It allows me to shoot 100-200 with just a low hold and the close stuff is on. It has helped me immensely.

[kellyn]

I believe this thread was about iron sight zeroes. Scope zeroes are a different animal.

I would strongly suggest NOT using a 100 yard zero unless your match only has shots to 100 yards. I don't know of any top iron sight shooter that ever used a 100 yard zero. Certainly not Kurt Miller, Bruce Piatt, Robby Johnson, Bennie Cooley or Isto. A 100 yard zero means that you are holding over every target past 100 yards. It is very difficult to hold consistent elevation with iron sights when the sight is actually covering the target. It is much easier to hold 6 o'clock so you can see the target.

[TommyD]

It is very difficult to hold consistent elevation with iron sights when the sight is actually covering the target. It is much easier to hold 6 o'clock so you can see the target.

Definitely! Thanks for the insight. I'm sure I would have figured this all out on my own when zeroing and testing, but it's nice to belong to a great community

[eddiegunks]

i use teh 25/300. works great for me.....well i actually have trouble with the 100 yard stuff. i have to hold lower on 100. i have no issues with 300 or 400 (i shoot a scar and i adjust the rear elevation for 400).

that being said, my buddy was shooting my rifle and was hitting at 100 yards holding it right on......it all comes down to cheek weld/position i guess.

Edited October 13, 2012 by eddiegunks

[Seth Long]

50/200 yard zero with 75 grain at about 2800 FPS. Its actually zero'ed at 200 but i end up being slightly high at 50.

I have no problem hitting larue targets out to 300 yards, to rezero i move 10 clicks on my accupoint or i just hold towards the head on the popper and it falls over. Locally, its almost impossible to find anything much over 150.

[P.E. Kelley]

Iron Sight Article

I am in step my esteemed colleague Mr. Neal (kellyn), you ought to know several zeros and apply them accordingly.

[TommyD]

Iron Sight Article

I am in step my esteemed colleague Mr. Neal (kellyn), you ought to know several zeros and apply them accordingly.

Thanks for the link, I have seen it before, glanced over it, but never throughout read it before

" Instead of trying to hold well below the close-range targets with a zero that would improve my ability to hit the 400- and 500-yard targets, I broke the target array down into near and far and clicked between them, all while on the clock. It worked well enough that I was able to pick up my third win."

^ This is too cool

"lift your head to raise your eye enough so you can see the front sight over the top of the rear."

Gunna give that a shot when after I get this thing zeroed in! Thanks

Edited October 13, 2012 by TommyD