joedodge Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 So for 6 months I've primed all my cases on lee single stage press with a ram prime fully seating my federals and flattening them. I got a hand primer from lee primed up some cases they were below flush but last night had 5 light hits. That's all that changed. I thought the hand primers were the secret voodoo or somtim for Revos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Should also mention my 625 does have a tuned action using factory main and rebound spring, and a .495 extended firing pin. this gun has ran every rd ive put through it till now which is around 4000 rds. Could it be that the hand primer isnt flattening them is there really that much to the flattening them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp100man Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 I don't know Joe. I too use the extended Apex firing pin, but I did put in the Wilson springs into to my 625 revolver. The other thing I did was to replace my strain screw with an Allen Head (with a dab of blue loctite). I bend my mainspring so that I get a light trigger but consistent primer ignition. I then back off the Allen Head until I stop getting consistent strikes. Above all, I want 100% strikes. But the allen head screw allows me to fine tune the adjustment. But when my old Lee hand primer finally wore out, I bought the new square Lee one. What a dissapointment. The plastic ears on the tray cover kept breaking off and I got tired of getting replacements so I chucked it in the trash. I bought the bench mount RCBS Automatic Priming Tool #09460 and it is the BOMB! My primers seat consistently very well, it is easy and quick to use. You can see the anvil when you look at my seated primers. And I can prime a 100 cases much quicker than with the hand held versions, and you get a really good solid feel when the primers bottom out and flatten out. I love it and I have great success with it. It may help you. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 That's exactly like lee ram prime in a singsle stage press its awsome I.thought the hand prime would be cool guess not tho I've always had great ignition till that damb thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Dillon 650 only for all my revolvers all have action jobs and I have had 100% ignition. I have never had to hand prime. Just that little extra push when seating the primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 I do the same on my Dillon 550s. No need for an additional primer step. Just lean on the handle every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 LEE hand primers are fraught with issues. The old ones had a pot metal link that wore out at the worst possible times. The newer ones simply seem to break at the worst possible times. I bought an RCBS Primer years ago, and it's never missed a minute of work. Of course I didn't pay the absolutely lowest possible price for any hand primer on the market for it, but I know I can open the box at any time, and it'll work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No.343 Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 LEE hand primers are fraught with issues. The old ones had a pot metal link that wore out at the worst possible times. The newer ones simply seem to break at the worst possible times. I bought an RCBS Primer years ago, and it's never missed a minute of work. Of course I didn't pay the absolutely lowest possible price for any hand primer on the market for it, but I know I can open the box at any time, and it'll work. +1. I bought mine before I got into revolver shooting because it takes regular shell holders. I still load most of my rifle ammo on a single stage press and it serves me for that as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Wonder why mine doesn't seat them deep enough for my action mines light but not the lightest I've felt I guess ill stick with my ram prime I know it crushes them good enough. I really don't wana make my action any heavier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 (edited) I do the same on my Dillon 550s. No need for an additional primer step. Just lean on the handle every time. I do the Randy Lee trick of spinning the case 180 degrees and pushing a second time on my match ammo :devil: Edited July 4, 2012 by underlug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 Ya ram prime it is crush them thangs in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp100man Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 I just couldn't get the primer system on my dillon 550 to work reliably and really seat them. I don't believe that there is any adjustment. And while it didn't happen often, the primers would get turned sideways. After reading about other's frustration with the 550 priming system, I made the switch to hand priming. It really doesn't take that much longer and this way I KNOW that they are seated well. Joe, can you see any sign of the anvil after you have seated the primer? It is starting to sound like you just need to tweak that spring a little bit and get some more speed going on that firing pin. But other things, like a slightly bent moon clip can affect ignition too. Or if you are using mixed range brass, then a burr left on the case rim from a SA extractor can goof it up. A buddy showed me a good way to make the adjustments. Take a couple of empty cases. Drill out the flash holes as large as you can but still seat a primer ok. Then prime the cases. Don't do anything else, just a case with a primer. Now you can use those safely in your garage or backyard to test with as you adjust the tension on the spring. Put those cases away for future testing and don't use them for reloading. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOSAJ19 Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 I use a Dillon 550 to load my ammo. I then have a Lee hand primer, that has a shim (cut from coke can aluminium)wrapped around the pin in the main body, & I attatch the hand leaver over (the shimmed pin) it, giving an additional seating depth. Old school solution, passed on by an old school shooter to me. Thanks PD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 When I use the ram prime in the single stage yes the anvil flattens out the primer with my hand primer it doesn't flatten them it just seats them I've been fine for 6 months till this dang hand primer I just won't use and I know ill be good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 I have never understood why anyone would re-seat or crush a primer on a live round. I know that a lot of people do it and have never had any problems but I have set one off using that extra heave on my 650. Besides the stain in my shorts and the ringing in my ears all was well. If a loaded round sets off when crushing the primer it would be like a small bomb our I would think. I had a round go off on a open chamber when unloading my 10mm Delta Elite as the best we figured the primer hit a stuck firing pin and detonated. Part of the brass ended up on the joint of my thumb and who knows where the bullet went. The same could happen by crushing primers on loaded rounds, so why take a chance. I would for sure wear safety glasses and gloves as it may never happen but if it does you should have some protection. Just my thoughts on safety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Depending on how your machine is set up, you may not be able to seat the primers to full depth, no matter how hard you heave on it. Sometimes you can shim the seating stem to get deeper seating, but it doesn't always work. If you can avoid the extra step of hand-seating--great. But when in doubt, hand-seating the primers is the answer. If you go this route, I recommend acquiring one of the specialty brand tools rather than the pot-metal crap. I have used a K&M tool like this one for years, with excellent results: http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/primer-seater-tools/primer-deluxe.html My only complaint about the K&M tool is that the handle is not all that comfortable after awhile, but you can fix that with athletic tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 Thanks for the replys everyone I like that hand primer from k&m but think ill just use my ram prime its bolted to the bench with a handle I can feel them botom then just nudge them a lil more it worked for 6 months I'm sure it will keep working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 I bought the Hornady hand primer, and it is 100% better than the Lee. I had the Lee for 3 hours and took it straight back to Cabelas. I can't get crushed primers on my Hornady LnL, so I use this when I need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyberiad Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 I was using the K&M tool but it really became uncomfortable. I bought an RCBS bench priming tool and while it wasn't cheap I have to be careful now not to push primers in too deep. My 550 appears to provide the correct depth but any correction is very easy with the bench primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jester121 Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 I'm trying to follow along, but I'm lost. For those of us who are new, why would one want to crush a primer into the brass? My Hornady seats Federal LP primers just at or a hair below flush, they look just like Federal factory loads when I'm done. Is something better when you squish the primer even harder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Yeah, there's a crush point that is past Federal factory that is optimal for ignition reliability in guns with super-light action jobs. Cyberiad is correct, though, that you don't want to crush them too much, or you start to have problems going too far the other way. You want them below flush, and starting to flatten out. The slight flattening means they are fully seated against the bottom of the pocket, and you won't waste any energy by having the hammer finish the seating job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 I was using the K&M tool but it really became uncomfortable. Sinclair makes a nice-looking hand priming tool also, but I haven't actually handled one yet. I believe it only takes proprietary Sinclair shell holders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jester121 Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Yeah, there's a crush point that is past Federal factory that is optimal for ignition reliability in guns with super-light action jobs. Cyberiad is correct, though, that you don't want to crush them too much, or you start to have problems going too far the other way. You want them below flush, and starting to flatten out. The slight flattening means they are fully seated against the bottom of the pocket, and you won't waste any energy by having the hammer finish the seating job. Thank you, sir. That makes much more sense to me now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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