1050 for .223

[Kyle O]

I want to simplify my .223 processing.

I'm thinking 1050, with casefeeder, and rapid trim.

2 steps.......resize, swage, rapid trim.....then clean, prime, charge, and seat.

I have a 550, XL650 already, but I've been single stage resizing, single trimming, super swage, single chamfer, then charge and seat on the 550. It wears me out to prep, loading is not that bad, but My birthday is coming up, and I'm due for something nice.

1050

rapid trim

case feeder (.223)

is what I "think" I need.

So, what say you enosverse?...

Edited April 6, 2012 by Kyle O

[RiggerJJ]

I wouldn't feed all my ARs and my wife's & my 3gun habit without a 1050 set up just like you described...

jj

[Henny]

Perhaps use the 650 for case prep (resize/trim/expand - I use a Lyman M die) and the 1050 for loading and swage during the loading process? No switching dies and you're always ready to process and load.

[AlamoShooter]

That is similar to what I have been doing with my 1050. I don't know if you have all your gear set-up yet, but the Vacuum is a must have with all the brass that accumulates.

I have a longer Hose so that I can put the Vacuum a bit farther away, but still the Air sucking noise at the intake side is noisy. For this reason I prep with headphones on and do all the -Trimming- work at one time to last me most of the year.

I keep that group off -just trimmed- cases in groups when I load for training so that I can size with-out the trimmer before the brass stretches. So I trim a few thousand cases at one time over a few nights.

If you deprime and size in the first station you are trapped -When- the deprime rod breaks. I like to use the Dillon universal deprime die in #1 - thin the swadge sip prime and put a Size Die in #4 station with out the deprime pin in it. thin the RT1200 with the vacuum screaming at me. and thin another size die just to wipe the brass lip at the top.

all that brass goes in to the case cleaner with Walnut chips.

The RT1200 goes up on the shelf and the Dam Vacuum goes away.

If I don't case check each round before loading - I at least case check 10% - for 100% pass. If not all of them get the touch and look.

When I load this cleaned brass I use the Universal deprime die to clear out the primer flash hole and I back off the Swadge rod for a better feel in loading. The size die is removed from #4.

Oh all most of my long range cases get chamfered and case checked placed in a 100 round box and inspected for best uniformity.

Keep your loading area less cluttered than Mine is or you may be rebuilding your favorite gun

You would be very surprised to find out how many "experienced" shooters have shared confidentially the exploded gun mishap

Edited April 8, 2012 by AlamoShooter

[Kyle O]

Good stuff guys, I'm gonna go ahead and get the 1050, ill figure out the most efficient setup, between the presses. My idea, is to keep it as automated as possible (fewer changouts). All the single touching of brass has really left me with a sour taste for reloading high volume rifle.

I've got a vaccum, I knew that would be necessary for the rt1200.

[AlamoShooter]

Good stuff guys, I'm gonna go ahead and get the 1050, ill figure out the most efficient setup, between the presses. My idea, is to keep it as automated as possible (fewer changouts). All the single touching of brass has really left me with a sour taste for reloading high volume rifle.

I've got a vaccum, I knew that would be necessary for the rt1200.

A 1050 Is very Cool , But it leads to the path of ....Obsesivness

The deswage station takes the -Fun- out of it it takes more leverage than the size station takes, & I used to damage 1 case in 20 when the case mouth hit the backup rod.

Some cases are nice looking brass but have the Dam two hold primer flash hole. = broken & beent rods gumming up the night.

So I look inside all the cases before I lube them - after they have ben tumbled in a Dillon case /media separator. some of the 223 can trap dirt and crud in the case. I end up with sand and dirt and small rocks in the bottom of the plastic bin. Things I do not want in my case cleaning Media for tumble-ling.

I grab 5 to 10 at a time in a fist and tilt them up to a hat light and look in cases, and at the case mouth throwing out any thing "not good" I roll my wrist and look at the primers- throwing out any thing that looks suspect like flattened primers = louse primer pocket. I separate the primer pockets that have a Swage in to a box. I do all the cases that have to be DeSwaged all at the same time when I case trim.

When I am loading I remove the Swage Back-up Rod, So that the cases 1 in 20 do not get the mouth dented when it catches. And I have the best -Feel- with out it in the load possess.

Loading is a Joy after the cases are all clean and shiny and ready for primer and powder. You can Feel the primer seat on any case that did not get a good deswag = thats why I load all the crimp primer pockets at the same time. to keep the feel consistent.

Still the 1050 is very Cool Its nice to look at 3,000 trimmed clean ready to load cases. Looking now I see that I am down to only 1,000 . But I know the 1,000 fired cases in the other boxes were only shot once since the trim and swage presses so. As all I need to do to load them besides the lube is same set-up like loading for my pistole.

[warpspeed]

Perhaps use the 650 for case prep (resize/trim/expand - I use a Lyman M die) and the 1050 for loading and swage during the loading process? No switching dies and you're always ready to process and load.

I like this idea myself. Even use the 550 for it. That way it does not auto index which can be a PITA sometimes.

[Henny]

Perhaps use the 650 for case prep (resize/trim/expand - I use a Lyman M die) and the 1050 for loading and swage during the loading process? No switching dies and you're always ready to process and load.

I like this idea myself. Even use the 550 for it. That way it does not auto index which can be a PITA sometimes.

If he uses the 650 for it there's no need to even touch the brass. Just dump and crank to process.

[Kyle O]

Just dump and crank to process.

This!

[RiggerJJ]

Two heads on a 1050 are are better than one!

I would not do anything rifle on a 650 if I had a 1050...

I used to just do 223 on my 1050. started shooting 308 and because of the cost difference, I did 308 on the 650 for a while. finally broke down and bought 2 more tool heads for the 1050, and WOW! What a difference!

In 223 I can process upwards of 2k per hour. Thats an entire 5 gallon bucket in 3 hours, easy peasy!

Switching heads is easy, and the shell plate needs to be removed every so often anyway for cleaning, so I do all the cleaning and PM when I change heads.

The 2 head process for rifle reloading on the 1050 is THE way IMHO...

my 650 is now a pistol-only loader...

jj

[Kyle O]

Two heads on a 1050 are are better than one!

I would not do anything rifle on a 650 if I had a 1050...

I used to just do 223 on my 1050. started shooting 308 and because of the cost difference, I did 308 on the 650 for a while. finally broke down and bought 2 more tool heads for the 1050, and WOW! What a difference!

In 223 I can process upwards of 2k per hour. Thats an entire 5 gallon bucket in 3 hours, easy peasy!

Switching heads is easy, and the shell plate needs to be removed every so often anyway for cleaning, so I do all the cleaning and PM when I change heads.

The 2 head process for rifle reloading on the 1050 is THE way IMHO...

my 650 is now a pistol-only loader...

jj

So, Do I need to order another toolhead for the 1050 when I get it?

[warpspeed]

Two heads on a 1050 are are better than one!

I would not do anything rifle on a 650 if I had a 1050...

I used to just do 223 on my 1050. started shooting 308 and because of the cost difference, I did 308 on the 650 for a while. finally broke down and bought 2 more tool heads for the 1050, and WOW! What a difference!

In 223 I can process upwards of 2k per hour. Thats an entire 5 gallon bucket in 3 hours, easy peasy!

Switching heads is easy, and the shell plate needs to be removed every so often anyway for cleaning, so I do all the cleaning and PM when I change heads.

The 2 head process for rifle reloading on the 1050 is THE way IMHO...

my 650 is now a pistol-only loader...

jj

So, Do I need to order another toolhead for the 1050 when I get it?

i think what he is saying is with 2 tool heads, you won't need the other presses.

[RiggerJJ]

Two heads on a 1050 are are better than one!

I would not do anything rifle on a 650 if I had a 1050...

I used to just do 223 on my 1050. started shooting 308 and because of the cost difference, I did 308 on the 650 for a while. finally broke down and bought 2 more tool heads for the 1050, and WOW! What a difference!

In 223 I can process upwards of 2k per hour. Thats an entire 5 gallon bucket in 3 hours, easy peasy!

Switching heads is easy, and the shell plate needs to be removed every so often anyway for cleaning, so I do all the cleaning and PM when I change heads.

The 2 head process for rifle reloading on the 1050 is THE way IMHO...

my 650 is now a pistol-only loader...

jj

So, Do I need to order another toolhead for the 1050 when I get it?

Yep, for each caliber use 2 heads, one to process the brass, one to load.

this is my set up, others use other set ups, I feel there is no "right or wrong" as long as the end product is usable/accurate/affordable ammo that takes the least amount of effort;

lube brass with good lube. most say dillon lube. when you get a stuck case in the sizer die you will know why...

process head;

1. full length resize/decap

2. deswage (optional)

3. trim

tumble to remove lube

loading head;

1. universal decaper to remvove tumbling media from primer pocket/flash hole

2. deswage

3. primer

4. powder

5. bullet seater

6. crimper (another contriversial die, I use one to help prevent setback)

jj

Edited April 9, 2012 by RiggerJJ

[freakshow10mm]

Yup, I recommend the 2 toolhead approach. Leave the processing head setup for processing and the loading head for loading.

Processing:

Size/deprime

Swage to remove crimp

Trim to length

Tumble to remove lubricant.

Loading:

Universal deprime to clear flashhole

Prime

Powder

Seat

Crimp

[broncolou]

    On my 1050 prep head I use a

1. Lee universal decap die with Squirrel Daddy hardened decapping rods

2. swage (Fast & Friendly Brass hardened rod)

3. empty

4.empty

5. RT 1200 to vacuum full length resize/trim die

6 empty

7.redding neck bushing die with plunge ball and no decap pin installed

 

If I do not follow up with a Giraud trimmer, I wet tumble for 45ish min to take the sharp edge off from the 1200 trimmer

If they have gone through the Giraud I just walnut shell tumble/polish

[chrishoesel]

1050 is a godsend for 223 (and 308 for that matter.) I use one for 300BO conversion and loading with RT1500's.

I have 2 setup with separate toolheads for prep and loading.  Also for all my pistol calibers.

 

You won't regret the decision.

[ams30gts]

This is my method.  I process on the 1050 and load on the 550.  I tumble in walnut before processing and then tumble in stainless after processing.

1050 setup:

1. Brass insertion
2. Lee Universal Decapping Rod
3. Swage with F&F hardened swage rod
4. Empty
5. Empty
6. 223 Trim Die w/ 1500 trimmer
7. Empty
8. Lee Collet Neck Die (Only enough so the pin expands the neck back to spec)

[USA]

RiggerJJ, what station are you putting the trimmer on?  Also, do you back out the swage rod if you are not swaging on the processing toolhead?  Does it hurt the swage rod if there is no backup die installed?

[RiggerJJ]

I always run the swager, even on the loading head. 

I run the trimmer in station 5. Puts it directly across from the sizing die keeping head tilt to a minimum.

jj

[chrishoesel]

Good decision to jump to the 1050.  Use the 2 toolhead method, or if you don't, then at least use the Hornady die lock rings to maintain your die settings.  Eventually this will become a disease and you will want to use it for 308 as well (if you have one)  I ended up with 2 1050's, one in small primer and one in large + 9 toolheads and 3 RT1500's.  It never stops. They take a bit of finesse to set up, but once you do, they are gold.  They are my most prized possessions at the moment.  I also think they don't need any upgrades.  The new ones have all the updated parts in the priming system and case feed area and are good to go.

Also the RF100's are a godsend to fill primer tubes. (or some other kind of vibrating primer tube filler)  You will soon get tired of manually loading primer tubes since 100 rounds will be done in 3-5 minutes.

Enjoy.