Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

chrishoesel

Classified
  • Content Count

    86
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About chrishoesel

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 03/19/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houston, Kabul, other cesspools....
  • Real Name
    Chris Hoesel

Contact Methods

  • Skype
    chris.hoesel

Recent Profile Visitors

658 profile views
  1. I know it's an old thread, but GM215m are now available almost everywhere. My local shop has cases of them.
  2. I replaced all my 1050 shellplates with FFB. My IMI match 308 brass doesn't fit the 308 shellplate properly and 90% of the cases that get fed into it catch at an angle and jam up the press. LC brass is ok, but it really is a tighter pocket to combat tilting. (I think the rims on the cases are machined a bit differently on the IMI). The shellplates seem well made but the attitude of the person I dealt with made sure those shellplates would be the last I ever buy. I was overseas when I placed the order and since I wasn't home, and they shipped signature required, they got sent back. Whe
  3. Say shaft one more time. LOL. Mobil 1 synthetic and I use those dauber thingies (basically a little wire with a cotton ball on the end looking thing) like what is inside the pvc glue can......
  4. Mine had been flawless for 2 years but now are flipping 3-4 primers every 100. The rheostats are all the way on lowest setting but they still agitate too much. Will have to figure out what the deal is. Nothing changed and I'm the only one who touches my bench so it's got me stumped. I've only ever ran CCI primers through them.
  5. Yeah, I run one for each size. They used to be flawless, but all of a sudden both of them are flipping primers at least 4 or 5 per 100. I have to watch them now and manually dampen the vibrations by putting my hands on them and cancelling out the oscillations. It's weird. Nothing changed and they are both on lowest rheostat setting. Once I figure out the issue I would heartily recommend them if that is what you're asking. Apparently they do need some tweaks to function 100%.
  6. Also make sure the top of the casefeed tube is not putting pressure on the top plastic plate of the casefeed shuttle. If there is any weight from the casefeeder pushing down on it, raise the casefeeder so that there is a gap between the top of the tube and the bottom of the casefeeder itself. This will relieve any pressure on the shuttle top plate. That fixed it for me. Also, don't use any viscous grease in the shuttle as that will slow it down and lag behind your stroke cadence.
  7. Looks good at 44.1 Try 43.9 through 44.2 might be your node. I think you want to look at the ones that give the least amount of vertical stringing. Horizontal might be wind and/or shooter so disregard unless it is extreme. Someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in.
  8. You can use the MBF unit you have now, and move it over to the other press. You will need the 45ACP conversion kit, the large diameter feed spring, and the large pistol collator plate. (I think that one comes with the conversion kit) Then simply use the 45acp dropper on your toolhead, and attach that to the collator using the large feed spring. You can get enough belling using the existing powder funnel that comes with the Dillon, or you can use the expander funnel that comes with the MBF conversion kit for 45ACP. I'm currently using the Dillon one, but might change over to the MBF f
  9. I got 2 of them. Love them. Small primer one ran perfect out of the box. Large primer RF100 required quite a bit of fiddling to work 100%. Now they are set and would never go back.
  10. I've not used CFE223 yet, but thinking I might. I've chronoed loads of 25.5 grains of 8208XBR at 3025 out of a 14.5 barrel. Slightly flattened primers in 5.56 LC brass and using 55gr FMJBT-C Armscor cheap bullets. Similar results with the Hornady 55gr FMJBT-C as well.
  11. I crimp everything that goes into a gas gun. Everything, cannelure or not. It's not a heavy crimp, but it's enough to remove any belling that I get from the swaging backup rod, which helps my MBF feed bullets. I also use and swear by the Lee FCD. I would recommend it. Especially in 308, where recoil is strong enough to affect cartridges in the magazine. There is quite a lot of force acting on the rounds when they are fed in the firing cycle. Don't leave it to chance. Bolt rifles are good to go with only neck tension.
  12. You might consider a slight crimp. Just enough to take out the belling. As far as the mark on the projectile, either ignore it, or polish out the seating stem, or use a different seating die meant for VLD bullets. Redding or forster....but those are a bit more expensive.
  13. I PM'd you on this question but I'll add it here for general consumption. Yes, CCI #41 primers will be fine for all 5.56/223 applications, so long as swaging is set up correctly. Also make sure when you are seating primers, that the primer is slightly below the case-head (about 1/2 a thousandths) and definitely not protruding. I think Winchester or Federal have the equivalent primer, but I've only ever used CCI and find them to be excellent. Use CCI #34 for your 308 gas guns. Same concept applies. I would not load anything but a hard-cup military or equivalent primer in any gas gun t
×
×
  • Create New...