chrishoesel

Yeah Montana Gold seems to be the best deal going right now. I snagged a case of 124 JHP last week. Free shipping and 9.6 cents a round can't be beat for what looks to be an amazing bullet.

I started a load workup with Montana Gold 124gr JHP and even though I found a load which is quite clean, I was playing with the numbers in Quickload using a Speer 124gr bullet for the data. According to QL, I'm approaching maximum pressure (but still below max) using 4.6 grains of VV N-340. I modified the BA numbers to get the velocity to match what I'm chronoing at (1065 fps) at a COAL of 1.080. VV load booklet shows 4.9 grains being the max load using Lapua's megashock bullet which is the only one listed in that weight range and N-340. My previous loads using Zero Bullets 124 JHP were pushing 1190-1200 fps out of my Glock 19 at 5.5 grains. (.6 over max, but no pressure signs) yet quite dirty. I'm now running magnum small pistol primers, and found that my lower load, even though slower and less pressure, is almost clinically-clean using same powder and same weight-class bullet. I wanted to play around with N-310, and looking at Quickload to get me in the ballpark since I have over 20 pounds of it, so wanted to get the data a bit more accurate by seeing if anyone had generated a .bul file for Montana Gold, as I can't find it anywhere. Has anyone run N-310 with 9mm? I know it's supposed to be bunny-fart soft with heavy projectiles in .45 ACP. N-320 seems better suited for 9mm, but only have about 2 pounds of that left. Anyhow, have 4k to load, and I'll do half with this current load and try out N-310 once I finish this first batch. Recoil is kinda snappy in the Glock, even though I'm running a comp on it, there is no gas to drive it. I'm getting a full burn though.

I know it's an old thread, but GM215m are now available almost everywhere. My local shop has cases of them.

I replaced all my 1050 shellplates with FFB. My IMI match 308 brass doesn't fit the 308 shellplate properly and 90% of the cases that get fed into it catch at an angle and jam up the press. LC brass is ok, but it really is a tighter pocket to combat tilting. (I think the rims on the cases are machined a bit differently on the IMI). The shellplates seem well made but the attitude of the person I dealt with made sure those shellplates would be the last I ever buy. I was overseas when I placed the order and since I wasn't home, and they shipped signature required, they got sent back. When I requested they be resent, and I would pay the shipping again, I got a condescending email back about making sure I was home when ordering stuff and a rant about something or other as if I was asking them to give me free stuff. Just a really bad attitude and my order wasn't small either. Got a bunch of other upgrades as well.

I find them at local gun shows.

Yes I do. I like them.

Say shaft one more time. LOL. Mobil 1 synthetic and I use those dauber thingies (basically a little wire with a cotton ball on the end looking thing) like what is inside the pvc glue can......

Mine had been flawless for 2 years but now are flipping 3-4 primers every 100. The rheostats are all the way on lowest setting but they still agitate too much. Will have to figure out what the deal is. Nothing changed and I'm the only one who touches my bench so it's got me stumped. I've only ever ran CCI primers through them.

Yeah, I run one for each size. They used to be flawless, but all of a sudden both of them are flipping primers at least 4 or 5 per 100. I have to watch them now and manually dampen the vibrations by putting my hands on them and cancelling out the oscillations. It's weird. Nothing changed and they are both on lowest rheostat setting. Once I figure out the issue I would heartily recommend them if that is what you're asking. Apparently they do need some tweaks to function 100%.

Also make sure the top of the casefeed tube is not putting pressure on the top plastic plate of the casefeed shuttle. If there is any weight from the casefeeder pushing down on it, raise the casefeeder so that there is a gap between the top of the tube and the bottom of the casefeeder itself. This will relieve any pressure on the shuttle top plate. That fixed it for me. Also, don't use any viscous grease in the shuttle as that will slow it down and lag behind your stroke cadence.

Looks good at 44.1 Try 43.9 through 44.2 might be your node. I think you want to look at the ones that give the least amount of vertical stringing. Horizontal might be wind and/or shooter so disregard unless it is extreme. Someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in.

You can use the MBF unit you have now, and move it over to the other press. You will need the 45ACP conversion kit, the large diameter feed spring, and the large pistol collator plate. (I think that one comes with the conversion kit) Then simply use the 45acp dropper on your toolhead, and attach that to the collator using the large feed spring. You can get enough belling using the existing powder funnel that comes with the Dillon, or you can use the expander funnel that comes with the MBF conversion kit for 45ACP. I'm currently using the Dillon one, but might change over to the MBF funnel.

I got 2 of them. Love them. Small primer one ran perfect out of the box. Large primer RF100 required quite a bit of fiddling to work 100%. Now they are set and would never go back.

I've not used CFE223 yet, but thinking I might. I've chronoed loads of 25.5 grains of 8208XBR at 3025 out of a 14.5 barrel. Slightly flattened primers in 5.56 LC brass and using 55gr FMJBT-C Armscor cheap bullets. Similar results with the Hornady 55gr FMJBT-C as well.

I crimp everything that goes into a gas gun. Everything, cannelure or not. It's not a heavy crimp, but it's enough to remove any belling that I get from the swaging backup rod, which helps my MBF feed bullets. I also use and swear by the Lee FCD. I would recommend it. Especially in 308, where recoil is strong enough to affect cartridges in the magazine. There is quite a lot of force acting on the rounds when they are fed in the firing cycle. Don't leave it to chance. Bolt rifles are good to go with only neck tension.

You might consider a slight crimp. Just enough to take out the belling. As far as the mark on the projectile, either ignore it, or polish out the seating stem, or use a different seating die meant for VLD bullets. Redding or forster....but those are a bit more expensive.

I PM'd you on this question but I'll add it here for general consumption. Yes, CCI #41 primers will be fine for all 5.56/223 applications, so long as swaging is set up correctly. Also make sure when you are seating primers, that the primer is slightly below the case-head (about 1/2 a thousandths) and definitely not protruding. I think Winchester or Federal have the equivalent primer, but I've only ever used CCI and find them to be excellent. Use CCI #34 for your 308 gas guns. Same concept applies. I would not load anything but a hard-cup military or equivalent primer in any gas gun that has a floating firing pin bolt. (AR's, Tavors, SCAR's, ACR's, etc) Wolf also has a small rifle primer which is suitable, when CCI is not available, that I heard good things about. I once cooked off a benchrest primer in my AR while releasing the bolt at the range. Nothing bad happened, but you definitely don't want one to cook off in your house, or vehicle, or when least expected. I tell this to anyone willing to listen, even though many have used standard soft cup primers without issues.

Moly coated is not worth it for the application IMO. Some benchrest shooters like it, but they have gone to different coatings now, forgot the name of them.

No worries bud. I'm killing time at the moment and just happened to have QL open. Whereabouts in Houston? I'm in Afghanistan ATM but will be home in March. Hope to play with some loads when I get there. Take care

I forgot about AR Comp. Looks like a great loading actually. Here is the Quickload for it: I'll have to pick some of that powder up. Not sure about temp stability because I've never used it but the numbers look good. 100% propellant burn out of 10.5 inch barrel and same velocities/lower pressures. 223 REM-77GR HPBT-MATCHKING-ALLIANTARCOMP.pdf

Lowboost: I played around in Quickload for a bit with 2 bullet types, and using your information re: barrel length, I found a few powder combos to try. I'm attaching pdf of the results Caveat: 1. Do NOT USE 223 headstamp brass. Use ONLY 5.56 NATO or similar rated brass, since the loads I'm listing are high pressure loads and close to max. The pressures are still below 5.56 LC capability, but will not hold up in 223 chambers or 223-stamped brass. This is hypothetical of course, but I would not use reloads for defensive situations. Not because I'm afraid they won't work, but because of possible legal ramifications should they be used in such a situation. 2. Start 10% lower and observe pressure signs. I'm putting these in the "defensive round" category, and assuming you will not reuse the brass. 3. A 10.5 inch barrel length is not going to safely yield higher velocities than what is listed. All of these will achieve 2650-2700 out of 16 inch barrels. 2300fps is going to be max out of your barrel. Since these are going to be defensive rounds, you will need velocity over precision in order to get any expansion. Normally one always loads for safety first, precision second, and velocity third. I used safety first, velocity second, and precision is to be determined. Probably 1-1.5MOA. Lower charges will probably yield more precision. 4. None will achieve 100% burn, but are pretty close to 90-92%. You'll get some fireballs probably. Take these charts as a baseline to determine which powder/s to buy. Consult free online powder mfg. load data to correlate what I'm posting. Never take 1 person's advice when actual loadings are posted. Having said all that, I think you'll do great with CFE223, H4198, IMR 8208XBR, and to a lesser extent, Ramshot TAC. Hot climates, stay away from H335 and TAC if loading close to max. I'll work on some plinker loads using Hornady bulk 55gr stuff, good for matches and burners and post them. 223 REM-69GR TIPPED MATCHKING-HODG8208XBR.pdf 223 REM-69GR TIPPED MATCHKING-HODGBLC2.pdf 223 REM-69GR TIPPED MATCHKING-HODGCFE223.pdf 223 REM-69GR TIPPED MATCHKING-HODGH335.pdf 223 REM-69GR TIPPED MATCHKING-HODGH4895.pdf 223 REM-69GR TIPPED MATCHKING-RAMSHOTTAC.pdf 223 REM-69GR TIPPED MATCHKING-VVN530.pdf 223 REM-77GR HPBT MATCHKING-C-RAMSHOTTAC.pdf 223 REM-77GR HPBT MATCHKING-C-VVN530.pdf 223REM-SIERRA77GR-HPBT MATCHKING-C-HODGBLC2.pdf 223REM-SIERRA77GR-HPBT MATCHKING-C-HODGCFE223.pdf 223REM-SIERRA77GR-HPBT MATCHKING-C-HODGH335.pdf 223REM-SIERRA77GR-HPBT MATCHKING-C-HODGH4895.pdf 223REM-SIERRA77GR-HPBT MATCHKING-C-IMR8208XBR.pdf

I would stick to CCI #41 Military primers on any AR. They are good quality primers and I've been told are actually a magnum primer. Have harder cups to prevent slam fires. Could be wrong though. I would not trust a match primer on a floating firing pin weapon (AR's) because I've had a slam fire a few years ago chambering a round. It was pointed downrange but still I had to change my pants. Powders are numerous, and many will work well. Consider the following: (I would stick to the first 2 on this list since I've had best results with them personally and are plentiful now. Hodgdon CFE223 - Clean burning at hotter loadings and high velocities, good metering, somewhat temp unstable. IMR 8208XBR - (current favorite) Clean, decent velocities, good metering, and temp stable. Also good for lighter 308 loads Ramshot TAC - I haven't used it but many love it VV-N140 - No comment I haven't used it. Expensive. VV-N540 - No comment I haven't used it. Expensive and cannot be bought in 8lb jugs Varget - I've used it to good effect but found 8208 to be better Hodgdon H335 - Ball powder and meters like water, but very dirty and temp unstable. Military load I believe for M193 and M855 but could be wrong. I'll play around with Quickload and maybe come up with some start loading profiles on that 10.5in barrel. I'm waiting on a stamp for my LWRC SBR so I'm curious myself. You have any powders already? You can start with what you have or what you can get easily, and start there. Choose a bullet weight and brand, and go from there. I'll see what powders give good performance and 100% powder burn out of 10.5, and I'll use the Sierra 77gr as a guide.

Defensive rounds can be anything used for hunting (i.e. with expansion properties) Nosler Accubond Hornady FMJSP-C 55gr Hornady AMAX Hornady SST Berger TAC-TX (not sure if available in 223) You can also try to replicate the Black Hills 77GR MK 262 load which uses the Sierra 77gr Matchking w/ cannellure. This round is used in the MK12 DMRs (5.56) But you need a 1:7 twist barrel

I use the same combo of Hornady 55 FMJBT-C seated to center of Cannellure and 8208XBR except I use 25.5 gr. and crimped lightly on a lee FCD. Velocity is close to 3000 out of 14.5in barrel no pressure signs but I use only LC5.56 brass. Groups decent at 1-1.5 MOA to 100. I'm sure I can go lower on the powder down to 24gr. I love 8208XBR it is surprisingly clean and has a wide node. Meters plenty accurate out of 1050 maybe .1-.2 gr variation which I don't mind, since these are plinkers, but high quality plinkers nonetheless. I also use 8208XBR for my 308 gas gun on lighter bullets up to 155gr. I only use CCI #41 military primers in all my 5.56 AR's for peace of mind. I believe the #41's are closer to a magnum SR primer with a hard cup.

Good decision to jump to the 1050. Use the 2 toolhead method, or if you don't, then at least use the Hornady die lock rings to maintain your die settings. Eventually this will become a disease and you will want to use it for 308 as well (if you have one) I ended up with 2 1050's, one in small primer and one in large + 9 toolheads and 3 RT1500's. It never stops. They take a bit of finesse to set up, but once you do, they are gold. They are my most prized possessions at the moment. I also think they don't need any upgrades. The new ones have all the updated parts in the priming system and case feed area and are good to go. Also the RF100's are a godsend to fill primer tubes. (or some other kind of vibrating primer tube filler) You will soon get tired of manually loading primer tubes since 100 rounds will be done in 3-5 minutes. Enjoy.