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Roll Sizer


jeffa

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I find it interesting everyone always refers to Glocks as if they are the only guns that will swell brass.

I hear you Lee and I do realize Glock isn't the only one out there spitting out guppy belly brass. The term Glock'ed isn't going away anytime soon though amongst reloaders.

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I find it interesting everyone always refers to Glocks as if they are the only guns that will swell brass.

I hear you Lee and I do realize Glock isn't the only one out there spitting out guppy belly brass. The term Glock'ed isn't going away anytime soon though amongst reloaders.

I only own one Glock and seldom shoot bottom feeders anymore. I do appreciate all the Glocked brass. One pass through my sizer and my 610 never knows the difference.

Lee

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Mitch:

Here's a 6 year old G35 barrel and it's as supported as most and better than some.

HPIM1431.jpg

Being a wheelie myself, the chambers in a cylinder of most revolvers is more generous than a bottomfeeder, so regular sizing would be OK for a revolver.

I don't bother roll sizing 38/357 or 45ACP for revolver, but I do roll size 9mm, 40S&W and 45ACP for bottonfeeders.

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  • 2 years later...

I find it interesting everyone always refers to Glocks as if they are the only guns that will swell brass. Lol. I think the only fully supported chamber is a case gauge. Glocks are for sure less supported and other guns are more supported but it seems people think Glocks = no support and everything else = 100% support.

Lee

I agree. Anyone that uses a case gauge knows that the #1 cause of a "fail", is the rim of the case. Many times one can insert the case backwards and give it a twist, then it will pass.

DSC02128.jpg

I would think that a sizing die that sizes to 1/8" of the base would do more to cause work hardening, resulting in case head separation as a roll size die that is working mostly on the rim and somewhat on the lower (thicker) part of the case. Cut a few in half and take a look at the cross section.

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Just cut a random (9mm) case in half and noticed a ridge inside of it and a head that seemed thicker than I had seen in the past. The head stamp of the left case is "IMT" and if you can see in the photos has two "steps in it that a normal case does not have. .028" difference in head thickness + the reduced volume caused by the two steps thicker, further reducing case volume.

In any case (no pun intended) a "normal" case is almost 3/16" thick before you can begin to effect a case head seperation and as above most all fail a case gauge at the rim itself.

post-6631-0-47206300-1404097969_thumb.jp

Edited by jmorris
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  • 2 weeks later...

There's another headstamp besides the IMT that has that internal belt - Ammoload.

I can't help but think that such cases will have different ballistics, both internal and external, with a recipe that assumes normal interior case volume. When I run across these cases (I check the HS of every piece of brass I process). they get set aside. When I get to a substantial #, I will shoot them up after working up a load.

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If the 40 S&W brass fits in my L.E. Wilson Max Cartrige gague will it fit in any 40 S&W?

It will fit any 40 S&W with the same dimensions (or larger) than your gauge.

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If the 40 S&W brass fits in my L.E. Wilson Max Cartrige gague will it fit in any 40 S&W?

It will fit any 40 S&W with the same dimensions (or larger) than your gauge.

OK, would you expect the gague be at the tightest specifications?

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Just cut a random (9mm) case in half and noticed a ridge inside of it and a head that seemed thicker than I had seen in the past. The head stamp of the left case is "IMT" and if you can see in the photos has two "steps in it that a normal case does not have. .028" difference in head thickness + the reduced volume caused by the two steps thicker, further reducing case volume.

In any case (no pun intended) a "normal" case is almost 3/16" thick before you can begin to effect a case head seperation and as above most all fail a case gauge at the rim itself.

Sorry I have to ask this...........However I can not seem to understand, how do you cut the case in half (meaning instructions and equipment)? I do not have a ban saw and that is the only way I could comprehend. Also, if I did have a ban I would not do it for safety reasons.

Edited by mjohn
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Sorry I have to ask this...........how do you cut the case in half (meaning instructions and equipment)? I do not have a ban saw...

I'm not the OP, but ... I have cut cases in half to see the inside ("sectioning a case"). I use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel.

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If the 40 S&W brass fits in my L.E. Wilson Max Cartrige gague will it fit in any 40 S&W?

It will fit any 40 S&W with the same dimensions (or larger) than your gauge.

OK, would you expect the gague be at the tightest specifications?

I have no first hand experience with the Wilson 40 S&W gauge, but if I had to hazard a guess, I imagine that gauge is at the loosest specification, therefore anything that fits it should work in theory if the chamber is no tighter.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry I have to ask this...........However I can not seem to understand, how do you cut the case in half (meaning instructions and equipment)? I do not have a ban saw and that is the only way I could comprehend. Also, if I did have a ban I would not do it for safety reasons.

I had a dowel clamped in a vise on my roll in saw. Just slip the case over the end and cut.

You are correct that having your fingers that close to a powered cutting device being a bad idea.

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  • 1 month later...

Wow...this thread got HIGHJACKED...only a few people answered the OPs question

I would buy one for 250 if

It had case feeder capability

Could do different calibers

Perhaps, but you brought back a hijacked thread that was dead for a second time. The OP never posted in the thread again from 2 1/2 years ago and they aren't very active in general.

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