Talk me out of the 1050

[modex]

First off some background:

I have reloading experience in 9mm/40SW as well as .223.

I started with pistol on a Lee Pro1k, then moved to .223. The Lee wasn't cutting it for rifle, so I picked up a used Pro-Jector. But I'm past that and am ready to move onto a new modern press.

For a while I was down to 2 choices: Hornady or Dillon. Specifically, the XL650 vs the LnL AP. But then I started considering the 1050.

I don't shoot even close to 4000rds of any caliber in a month. Not only that, I switch calibers a lot. The only thing about the 1050 that I need is the auto swager. Swaging 5.56 brass is a pain in the ass with just the super swager. It would be much faster if I could do it progressively as part of reloading. But that's the only thing keeping the 1050 on my radar. If I knew of another solution that worked on the 650 or LnL AP, then 1050 would be off my list.

I also plan on getting a case feeder for whichever press I get, as well as the Hornady bullet collator/feeder.

[justinbaker]

First off some background:

I have reloading experience in 9mm/40SW as well as .223.

I started with pistol on a Lee Pro1k, then moved to .223. The Lee wasn't cutting it for rifle, so I picked up a used Pro-Jector. But I'm past that and am ready to move onto a new modern press.

For a while I was down to 2 choices: Hornady or Dillon. Specifically, the XL650 vs the LnL AP. But then I started considering the 1050.

I don't shoot even close to 4000rds of any caliber in a month. Not only that, I switch calibers a lot. The only thing about the 1050 that I need is the auto swager. Swaging 5.56 brass is a pain in the ass with just the super swager. It would be much faster if I could do it progressively as part of reloading. But that's the only thing keeping the 1050 on my radar. If I knew of another solution that worked on the 650 or LnL AP, then 1050 would be off my list.

I also plan on getting a case feeder for whichever press I get, as well as the Hornady bullet collator/feeder.

if thats the case then dont get the 1050

and if you really dont want to swage yourself, then send to these guys they will swage is for you

http://www.custombrassprocessing.com/PRICES.html

i have no affiliation to them

[Canuck223]

If you can afford it, buy the 1050.

Switching calibers isn't hard, just expensive. It's still worth it.

The simple solution is to find a load you like, then load lots!!!

[Action Pistolero]

Get the 1050. It's addicting. Be sure that you have plenty of components because once you start, you won't want to stop.

[modex]

Seems expensive sending my brass out for swaging.

How expensive is a caliber change? The article on it listed the conversion kit and dies.. but didn't say anything about the case feeder parts. Don't I need a new plate?

Also, I have enough of a stockpile where I would only change calibers once a month (at most) just to add to my supply. I'm never in a situation where I have to load a specific caliber at a specific time.

Does anyone else have a schedule for doing different calibers?

Edited February 26, 2012 by modex

[Retread1911]

I load almost exclusively on a 20 YO RL 1050. Yes changing calibers is harder than the 650 however I don't do it all that often. I tend to load the the exhaustion of one component before switching calibers.

I like the maintenance aspect of the change so even when I have to do it I find it relaxing and fun.

If you can afford it get a 1050 if you can't then the 650 is a great alternative.

[al503]

I don't shoot 4000 rounds a year and I have 2 1050's. I had three at one time but I only shoot one caliber 95% of the time.

The only advice I usually give when these threads pop up is usually:

If you have the scratch, get the best equipment you can. Whether you're digging one ditch or ten, I want the biggest and baddest ditch digger available. With the ever increasing prices on dillon equipment, you can use the press for as long as you want and you won't lose much $ (if at all) if you use it for any length of time before you sell it.

Edited February 26, 2012 by al503

[Action Pistolero]

Brian has the 1050 and all the goodies in his store. Caliber change kits are @ $120. Some calibers are more than others.

Caliber change kits include the shellplate, locator buttons and a swage backup expander. As I recall, there are 4 different casefeed plates. Small and large pistol. Small and large rifle.

[angus6]

Changes aren't really bad and costif your not buying toolheads for everything isn't that much more.

I got a 1050 then a few months later ended up with a 650 too., after using the 1050 the 650 sucks and will be sold

[mcracco]

I shoot about 2,000 rounds of 9mm per month and I have no problem justifying a 1050, it is a gorgeous machine.

But one of the features that drew me to the 1050 was the swaging station as I do run crimped brass. In my experience however, I found that trying to take the 100% of the crimp out with the 1050 alone was hard on the machine and not yielding great results. Instead I size/deprime on the 1050, run the brass through a primer pocket cutter to get some of the crimp out, then run the brass normally on the 1050 with the swager adjusted to finish the removal of the crimp. Much better results. Mind you all this is with 100% crimped NATO brass. If it was just an occasional crimped piece I would probably skip the extra cutting step.

Also, as I start to shoot some of the 40SW and 45ACP that I had loaded from the pre-1050 days, I wonder what I should reload those on. I'm thinking on picking up a 550 for the low volume misc calibers rather than disturb the 1050.

Edited February 26, 2012 by mcracco

[Rob Boudrie]

The only downside of the 1050 is the lack of the lifetime warranty, but part breakeages tend to be few and far between.

If you get one, you will not find yourself wishing you had bought a less expensive model a few years later.

[jmorris]

If the money is not a problem get the 1050, as you already know it's the best press for crimped primer pockets. If money is of no concern at all, get a few of them, then the only thing you'll have to do to change calibers is move your chair down the bench.

[latech15]

I agree with all of the above except the part about how hard it is to change calibers. Sure, it is harder than a 550, but you knew that. I can swap calibers (staying with small primers) and go from the last round on one caliber to the first crank of the handle on the other in under 5 minutes. It really isn't that difficult.

[Canuck223]

I agree with all of the above except the part about how hard it is to change calibers. Sure, it is harder than a 550, but you knew that. I can swap calibers (staying with small primers) and go from the last round on one caliber to the first crank of the handle on the other in under 5 minutes. It really isn't that difficult.

I think much of the angst over caliber changes with the 1050 has more to do with the cost.

The full toolhead and powder measure plus conversion kit isn't cheap when compared to the 550 or 650.

[xdmreg]

This is my reason why I went with the Xl 650. My first thought was of getting the 1050, but I thought it was overkill for what I was loading. I wanted the auto index plus at least 5 stations so the RL 550B was out. I called Brian, GREAT GUY, knows his stuff and he said I should go with the RL 550B due to my needs. I thought that was great a sales guy that actually told you straight up and didn't want to upsell me. I am in sales and for him not to upsell me and actually listened to my needs was why I will buy my Dillon reloading stuff from Brian’s site. Talk to Brian he will lead you to the right decision. I still did not listen to Brian’s advice at the end because I am a gizmo type of guy and I like tinkering with stuff and the caliber changeover was not too bad in my opinion. I can do and caliber change with primer change over in about 15 minutes and with the Xl650 lifetime warranty it was a no brainer. I like the primer system better with the XL650 over the 1050 becasue you can "feel" the primer seat. The 1050 is better with swage brass prep, but,don’t really have too many swage brass. I think if you are only in the 2000 rounds per month and you are doing a lot of Caliber conversions I would go for the XL650. I do 5 Caliber changes and reload in batches of 1000 so after I am done with one caliber I convert and load the next. I average 5000 rounds per month. Cost with the conversion was the ultimate deal-breaker.

1050 conversion

Caliber change kits include the shellplate, locator buttons and a swage backup expander-$117.95

Plus if you want another powder measure and Powder Die, optional, but I would recommend so you don't fool around with the expander and powder setting every time you convert calibers. $269.95

Total for complete caliber conversion $387.90

Xl650 Conversion

Caliber Conversion Kit (Shellplate/Locator Buttons (Qty. 3)/Powder Funnel/Casefeed Adapters) $77.95

Plus Deluxe Quick-Change Kit Includes Toolhead, Toolhead Stand,Powder Meassure, which includes Pistol and Rifle charge bars and Powder Die $107.95

Total for complete caliber conversion $185.95

Edited February 26, 2012 by xdmreg

[jmorris]

I like the primer system better with the XL650 over the 1050 becasue you can "feel" the primer seat

That's the beauty of the 1050, you don't have to "feel" for anything as the swage station makes sure they will enter the pocket just fine. I will say the brass tip on the 650 primer tube works much better than the plastic tip they use on the SD and 1050.

[HotLoad]

Or you could do what I did and buy 2 1050's

Edited February 26, 2012 by HotLoad

[Canuck223]

This is my reason why I went with the Xl 650. My first thought was of getting the 1050, but I thought it was overkill for what I was loading. I wanted the auto index plus at least 5 stations so the RL 550B was out. I called Brian, GREAT GUY, knows his stuff and he said I should go with the RL 550B due to my needs. I thought that was great a sales guy that actually told you straight up and didn't want to upsell me. I am in sales and for him not to upsell me and actually listened to my needs was why I will buy my Dillon reloading stuff from Brian’s site. Talk to Brian he will lead you to the right decision. I still did not listen to Brian’s advice at the end because I am a gizmo type of guy and I like tinkering with stuff and the caliber changeover was not too bad in my opinion. I can do and caliber change with primer change over in about 15 minutes and with the Xl650 lifetime warranty it was a not brainer. I like the primer system better with the XL650 over the 1050 becasue you can "feel" the primer seat. The 1050 is better with swage brass prep, but,don’t really have too many swage brass. I think if you are only in the 2000 rounds per month and you are doing a lot of Caliber conversions I would go for the XL650. I do 5 Caliber changes and reload in batches of 1000 so after I am done with one caliber I convert and load the next. I average 5000 rounds per month. Cost with the conversion was the ultimate deal-breaker.

1050 conversion

Caliber change kits include the shellplate, locator buttons and a swage backup expander-$117.95

Plus if you want another powder measure and Powder Die, optional, but I would recommend so you don't fool around with the expander and powder setting every time you convert calibers. $269.95

Total for complete caliber conversion $387.90

Xl650 Conversion

Caliber Conversion Kit (Shellplate/Locator Buttons (Qty. 3)/Powder Funnel/Casefeed Adapters) $77.95

Plus Deluxe Quick-Change Kit Includes Toolhead, Toolhead Stand,Powder Meassure, which includes Pistol and Rifle charge bars and Powder Die $107.95

Total for complete caliber conversion $185.95

There are ways to manage costs, and Brian Enos is great about steering you in the right direction.

[xdmreg]

I like the primer system better with the XL650 over the 1050 becasue you can "feel" the primer seat

That's the beauty of the 1050, you don't have to "feel" for anything as the swage station makes sure they will enter the pocket just fine. I will say the brass tip on the 650 primer tube works much better than the plastic tip they use on the SD and 1050.

Yeah you just get crushed primers.

[HotLoad]

I agree with one of the posters, give Brian E. a call and he will not send you in the wrong direction.

Edited February 26, 2012 by HotLoad

[modex]

Wow lots of good input. Thanks guys.

I would have to say that cost is somewhat of an issue. The 1050 is significantly more expensive than the 650. I'm really a casual shooter so I wonder if the 1050 is just too much press. I just want my reloading sessions to be smooth and quick.

I also want to have a case feeder and eventually a bullet collator/feeder. So I think that eliminates any manual indexing presses like the 550.

How is the priming system on the 1050? I kind of like being able to feel the prime happen, because I can tell right there if something went wrong. Can you tell if something didn't prime right with the 1050 or does it just smash the primer? Also, how are is it to achieve the correct priming depth adjustment on the 1050? How do you know when it's seating just right and not creating any additional pressure on the primer?

[spideysteve]

Wow lots of good input. Thanks guys.

I would have to say that cost is somewhat of an issue. The 1050 is significantly more expensive than the 650. I'm really a casual shooter so I wonder if the 1050 is just too much press. I just want my reloading sessions to be smooth and quick.

I also want to have a case feeder and eventually a bullet collator/feeder. So I think that eliminates any manual indexing presses like the 550.

How is the priming system on the 1050? I kind of like being able to feel the prime happen, because I can tell right there if something went wrong. Can you tell if something didn't prime right with the 1050 or does it just smash the primer? Also, how are is it to achieve the correct priming depth adjustment on the 1050? How do you know when it's seating just right and not creating any additional pressure on the primer?

1050 is awesome ... I would say it's not "too much press" and it is smooth and quick ... I loaded 1500 rounds yesterday in about 90 minutes ... taking my time ... had 1 crushed primer which was in a Winchester case ... seems like the Winchester cases are being a pain lately

As for priming system, it's all done on the down stroke, so you can't really feel it (my experience) since everything happens at the same time ...

Adjusting priming depth is an Allen key, easy as pie ... start off high, then adjust downwards until you have it exactly where you need it

[Koppi]

The 1050, a great machine! Easy to add a bullet feeder (Kiss bullet feeder). The primer depth seating is adjusted by a screw on the top of the Toolhead, easy. You must change out the primer magazine tip every 20,000 rounds also. No you will not be able to feel the primer setting in the pocket, you'll know there is a problem when the machine binds or a primer falls out as the case is progressed. After that if no primer is in the pocket of course powder will be seen under the shellplate. You can measure your primer depth or just look to see if it is dented by the Swage Rod. If it is just back it off a little.

[Old Vark WSO]

Hi all - I've been following this thread with much interest since in the last month I have convinced myself I need to make the jump to a full progressive from my 550 (which I love and will keep). I shoot a lot of a few pistol calibers and .223 (but have quite a collection of different caliber pistols in the gun safe) .

Here is my quandary - I was looking at the 650 - but dollar for dollar - it does not seem like as much of an "upgrade" as the 1050. Not to start anything here - but my impression is that the 650 is a 550 that spins the shellplate on its own (with room for a powder check and really needs a case feeder). Hence my question - how many of you bought a 650 and later wish you had spent more and got a 1050? - Compared to those who bought a 650 and were completely satisfied?

Sure the cost of tool heads makes me wince - though I might try to get by on two and as shown in other threads, loctite the locking rings to keep the setting. I have Googled every forum and thread I can find on this subject - I keep getting drawn to the machine that is one smooth pull for everything (instead of a pull/push).

Not to hijack this thread - but almost the opposite of the OP - looking for someone to talk me INTO a 1050 - positive reinforcement goes a long way when pulling out the checkbook!

OVW

[Action Pistolero]

Since you are going to keep the 550, use it for the calibers that you don't load a bunch of.

I started with a LEE 1000 and then bought a 650. Big improvement. Bought the 1050 and now cuss the 650. I rarely use the 650 now.

I have 2 toolheads. I use the other one when I want to load a bunch of another caliber.