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S&W Pieces and Parts (Pics added!)


gr7070

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I need to do some misc. work and need some help on a few things.

1. I need to buy a punch for the front sight pin on my 627. It's the typical interchangeable front sight. What diameter punch do I need?

2. I also want a 627 replacement sight pin. Any suggestions on where to order. Do I just go straight to S&W?

3. Will this punch work for the front sight pin on a 617? I want to replace the stock patridge with an SDM FO. If not,

4. I'm going to replace the rear sight blade on that 617 with a typ. 686 white-outline sight to accommodate the tall SDM front. Any suggestions on how to do this, especially staking it?

Much thanks in advance!

Edited by gr7070
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most likely the smallest punch you will find is a 1/16 you can get it locally at home depot or lowes but you will have to turn it down a lil smaller that pins very tiny. the pin can be ordered at midway or brownells, yes it will work on the 617 pin. and staking the replacement windage screw can be done with a center punch also purchased at a hardware style store.

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Thanks!

So, to stake the sight one just hits the end of the screw with a punch? I thought there might be more to it.

Do I need a special tool to screw the windage screw?

i love people with more knowledge than i

That's why I'm here!

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If it's the typical interchangeable front sight, like the last series of 625 or the 686 SSR, is not necessary pouch out the pin. Take the front sight and pull towards to you. It's handly fast replace system > NO tools required.

If you have a classic pinned front you must use a simple punch which is located in shops of mechanical tools, her in Italy I pay for one 0,70 cent of euro ( 1,4 mm. is perfect ) very cheap way

post-27397-0-09683900-1329000835_thumb.j

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If it's the typical interchangeable front sight, like the last series of 625 or the 686 SSR, is not necessary pouch out the pin. Take the front sight and pull towards to you. It's handly fast replace system > NO tools required.

I'm looking to push the pin in or replace the pin itself. My pin is only seated on one side. It might be bent??? Came that way from private sale.

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Interestingly enough the last batch of pins I got were not roll pins. The roll pin came out, but the replacement pin was solid.

Lee

I think my 627 is solid and my 617 is rolled???

Are the holes in the frame the same size on both guns?

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Interestingly enough the last batch of pins I got were not roll pins. The roll pin came out, but the replacement pin was solid.

Lee

I think my 627 is solid and my 617 is rolled???

Either way the solid pin is a replacement and it is easier to to get the solid pin because it has a slight taper on one side.

Lee

Are the holes in the frame the same size on both guns?

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It's hard to find a pin punch small enough for that job. My solution was to buy a set of those little eyeglass screwdrivers ($1.99 at Menards) and grind the tips flat. They work perfectly as long as you don't beat on them too hard.

If you use a .200" height Toolguy or Hi-Viz front sight on your 617 instead of the EGW, you won't have to change the rear blade. Think twice before you go with a white outline on the rear. I know everybody has different preferences and all, but it's pretty hard to defend the notion of putting anything on the rear blade that would tend to draw your attention when the whole idea is keep your visual focus on the front post.

I'm not wild about the idea of drilling the hole out to 1/16". The tenon on the front blade doesn't have much room for drilling error as it is, and increasing the size of the hole would make it that much more critical.

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I'll post a few pics in my next post. In the mean time...

FWIW, I went with the white outline simply because it's what's on my 686 and 627. I don't even notice them, and they're the newer outlines, so they're pretty pale.

I all ready have the blade, otherwise I'd probably order one without the outline. My biggest concern was getting a size/height that will accomodate the SDM front. I can order three plane blades in the future if I decide to. They're cheap enough, and we'll see how easy it is.

I wanted to stick with the same sights as my 686 and 627, so I figured I'd use the SDM. It does require some extra steps, and I'm not that big a fan of the tiny rear blade on the 617 anyway. Hopefully I won't regret taking those steps. ;-) Though none of them seem that difficult. We'll see.

I will not be drilling out the hole. I appreciate the suggestions, but I don't plan to do this often (if ever again), and I'm much more comfortable getting the proper tool than doing irreversable work to my gun.

I much appreciate al lthe info! Pics coming...

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Here's pics of the 627 front sight pin. Yes the cylinder was open when I took these! ;-)

The left side has no pin visible (actually you can see the end of the pin deep inside the hole), as it's not in the left half of the frame, only the right half of the frame holds the pin.

photo-26.jpg

The pin sticks out quite a bit on the right side.

photo-18.jpg

You can see the disparity a little better head on.

photo-16.jpg

And the telltale sign, you can see light comning in from the left side showing that the pin truly isn't in that portion of the frame.

photo-15.jpg

And just because, here's a pic of my 617 and the roll pin, vs. the solid pin on my 627. Sounds like the solid pin is the better buy, maybe???

photo-14.jpg

Edited by gr7070
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I could leave the 627 front pin alone. I've put a few hundred rounds through it and no apparent issues with the pin - it hasn't moved and i haven't lost my sight.

I will say it's not real easy to swap sights on it, though not that I intend to much - I like the SDM FO. I attribute some of that difficulty with the pin sitting slightly rearward because it's not aligned properly???

But I figured since I would be getting a punch and messing with my 617 that i could pop this pin out and replace it or put it in correctly.

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That is a Classic style sight not a pinned in one. I would get that pin installed correctly or replace it.

Understood, I plan to. I've been unable to push it in the opposite direction due to it being misaligned. If I take it out, and it's not bent, I presume I can

push it in easier with the rounded end first???

You can turn the white outline rear blade around and have a black one.

That I hadn't thought of. Good idea.

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Brownells doesn't have pics, so I was hoping I could get someone to confirm these for me before I waste shipping on them

Is this the pin I'd need for the interchangable front sight on the 627? Sight-Pivot-Pin-Front It says 686 in the description, so not sure if this will be a roll pin, and whether a roll pin is an option for the classic 627 front sight. I believe I'd prefer a solid pin???

Is this the front sight pin needed for the 617? Sight-Pin-Front-SS How likely is it I'll need a new pin? Can I just reuse the existing factory roll pin it came with? Or will it get buggered up pushing it out?

As always, much thanks in advance!

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From what I have seen, all front sight pins are the same, including the Pin-on and Classic (clip-on). They are .055 diam. X 1/4" long. There may be some exceptions, no one can know all the variations of every Smith ever made.

There is no way to tell when ordering if it will be a roll pin or a solid pin. If I want a solid pin, I order a 1/16" X 1/4" alloy steel dowel pin from MSC, Enco, Fastenal, McMaster-Carr, etc. A package of 100 is less than $15.00. A single piece is likely to be $3 to $5.

I always reuse a pin unless it was damaged already.

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I recently replaced the blade (I think S&W calls this the "slide") on a Model 67. Because I already had a magna-tip driver handle, I ordered the S&W sight nut spanner and sight staking punch from Brownells. The spanner comes 2 per pack and also comes with printed instructions on how to do the replacement, a nice touch.

I found the spanner 'bit' handy because I had to use it to hold the nut in place while I turned the screw on the other side to break it. I had removed the stocks and clamped the grip part of the frame in a small vice beforehand otherwise it would have been very awkward to hold the revolver while simultaneously holding the nut in place and turning the screw. After the assembly, staking was easy since the punch is flat on both "ends" which allows one to avoid crushing part of the nut itself. I probably could have done this without the additional tools but they made the job easy and they'll pay for themselves even if I only do this once more.

The instructions are available as a pdf from Brownells' site.

Edited by cyberiad
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Thanks again guys.

So it sounds like either one of these pins would work if my 627 is bent - which I suspect it is.

I found the spanner 'bit' handy

I was wondering how necessary this special tool would be.

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The spanner bit is for the nut on the rear sight windage screw. If I understand correctly, you're only dealing with the front sight.

If you change out the rear sight you need it. I just unscrew the nut and reuse the same screw and nut instead of ruining a good part by breaking it off.

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The spanner bit is for the nut on the rear sight windage screw. If I understand correctly, you're only dealing with the front sight.

If you change out the rear sight you need it. I just unscrew the nut and reuse the same screw and nut instead of ruining a good part by breaking it off.

Toolguy, Aren't those rear sight nut staked on so the end is flared? How do you remove the flare?

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