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Ejection Problem


rvb

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Hello,

Just before Christmas I picked up a new gen 3 34. I've had two practice sessions with it. The first was about 400 rounds, the second, today, was about 350. I've had I think 3 ejection problems in that time.

First, the gun has no ejection pattern. Brass lands all over the place, sometimes it seems to go straight up, or barely come out. It appears to be extracting ok, but when it's jammed the empty hasn't cleared the ejection port. Once it stove piped, the other times the brass was jammed horizontally top-center of the port above the next round in line.

I tried digging through the forum here. I saw a bunch of threads about gen 4s, and even something about a new ejector from glock? Would that apply to the gen 3?

If I eject a live/dummy round (eg the "flip" one might do at ULSC), the round barely clears the ejection port, no matter how quickly I rack the slide. It never has any hang time, which makes me think empty cases can't be ejecting any better.

The extraction appears ok, and the cases all get out of the chamber (when it's jammed, each time a new round has been heading into the chamber). And I can put a live round under the extractor and it will stay in place under extractor tension only.

The number on the ejector is 336.

1st outing was 100% stock. This second outing was a slide stop from a G17, a 13lb is ISMI recoil spring (on a factory guide rod w the capturing end piece removed).

Ammo was reloads, mixed brass, and a combination of 115 and 147 gr zeros. I've run well over 100k of these through my berettas so I'm confident in the load. These usually chrono at about 134pf.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

-rvb

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Is that a picture with the slide locked back? I'm assuming that the shiny surface at the bottom of the picture is the rear wall of the magwell. (Amazing job polishing that by the way!)

On my G-34, if the slide is locked back, the firing pin block is not visible and the breach face is practically inline with the rear wall of the magwell. When I tried to simulate the slide position to match your photo, my ejector is maybe about the thickness of the rim longer.

I think that the current length you have should be sufficiently long enough to eject the rounds, assuming that your slide will go back further.

If your slide won't go back further with the ISMI spring installed, I'd try putting the factory spring to see if the slide goes back further. If the slide does go back further with the factory spring, then when you put the ISMI spring back in, you may have to trim a few coils from the spring because it is reaching full compression and "bottoming out".

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Is that a picture with the slide locked back? I'm assuming that the shiny surface at the bottom of the picture is the rear wall of the magwell. (Amazing job polishing that by the way!)

On my G-34, if the slide is locked back, the firing pin block is not visible and the breach face is practically inline with the rear wall of the magwell. When I tried to simulate the slide position to match your photo, my ejector is maybe about the thickness of the rim longer.

I think that the current length you have should be sufficiently long enough to eject the rounds, assuming that your slide will go back further.

If your slide won't go back further with the ISMI spring installed, I'd try putting the factory spring to see if the slide goes back further. If the slide does go back further with the factory spring, then when you put the ISMI spring back in, you may have to trim a few coils from the spring because it is reaching full compression and "bottoming out".

No, slide is not locked back, just brought back to the point the case touched the extractor (I was wondering it it was bent in too far, hitting the case too low). I didn't polish the mag well, it's how it came. 100% stock except for recoil spring and non-extended slide release.

Extractor measures 0.593, Give or take a thou. With slide locked back it appears to leave approx 0.280 sticking out, hard to measure, give or take a tenth.

Tip of the ejector looks a little rough, but not necessarily chipped/broken.

I had one of the jams w the factory spring.

Thanks for the feedback!

-rvb

Edited by rvb
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There are two things that are possible issues. The first and most likely is the ejector. Glock has made a new ejector for there 9mm guns. It has solved most of the problems. The other is the extractor. Glock has changed them and they can be finicky. If you call Glock they will get you the new parts or have you send in the gun for the upgrades. You may also find it necessary to beef your loads up some to help.

Matt

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There are two things that are possible issues. The first and most likely is the ejector. Glock has made a new ejector for there 9mm guns. It has solved most of the problems. The other is the extractor. Glock has changed them and they can be finicky. If you call Glock they will get you the new parts or have you send in the gun for the upgrades. You may also find it necessary to beef your loads up some to help.

Matt

I'll give glock a call, and a local shooter has offered some spare parts to swap to help troubleshoot.

I don't think it's the loads needing beefed up. They are 133-134pf w/ 147s. surely that's enough?

it's an ejector or extractor issue for sure. I can put a dummy round in my beretta and bounce it off the ceiling when I rack the slide. I can't get it go go an inch or two higher than the gun w/ the glock...

-rvb

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If you are not an armorer they will not ship you the new ejector. I got lucky and knew a buddy from the local range that was one and hit him up. The new part cured my gen 3, but several other of my glocks are running strong with the 336 ejector fwiw. You can ship back or try to locate an armorer. I got a 336 ejector you can have if you want to try another. PM me and let me know, sort out details. Some are good, some are bad and mine didn't cut it in MY gun, but might run in yours since it is the same part they have used for years.

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Hello,

Just before Christmas I picked up a new gen 3 34. I've had two practice sessions with it. The first was about 400 rounds, the second, today, was about 350. I've had I think 3 ejection problems in that time.

First, the gun has no ejection pattern. Brass lands all over the place, sometimes it seems to go straight up, or barely come out. It appears to be extracting ok,

<SNIP>

The number on the ejector is 336.

<SNIP>

Thanks!

-rvb

I've had similar experience with my new G34; only shot federal and winchester factory loads so far, ejection all over the place, mostly in my face and chest. Installing the wolff guide rod and 15#? spring from brownells means the brass doesn't hit me, but ejection still seems erratic compared with my gen2 glock 19, 23 and 21 of 10 years ago. Any suggestions? I'm in Australia, so there is no Glock factory service readily available and parts can be problematic due to ITAR.

Thanks,

Dave

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spent a couple hours with a fellow local production shooter today.

Long story short, we swapped several parts around, making a bunch of measurements as we went, each time thinking surely we had figured it out... But no luck. In the end, we had swapped everything around, one at a time, and the gun finally worked when I had his 17 slide (with my extractor and barrel) on my frame. With the slide being the only variable, it ejected much better.

The only problem we can see on the slide is the right rail isn't straight. With a straight edge on the underside of the rail, we see about 8 thou runout. The left rail (and both rails on his slide) are essentially true. So it's as if the slide is slightly warped. Is it enough to matter and be the root cause? Who knows. But this gun is going back to glock.

Note that I had no malfunctions today. But watching where the brass landed it was pretty obvious when the gun was working right and when it wasn't. When it wasn't the brass was mostly under my feet; it barely kicked out at all.

I just hope that glock doesn't say it's within acceptable limits and they can't reproduce any failures; or if they do something significant like replace the slide I hope the gun comes back as accurate as it is now.

-rvb

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  • 1 month later...

Just an update:

Got my 34 back from glock ...

I don't think they did anything to it other than clean and replaced my std slide stop w. a new extended one. :angry:

It still seems to just dribble brass/rounds.

I shot a local match with it exactly how it came back from glock (except I didn't have a spare standard slide stop, so I ground off the extended portion.

results can be seen here:

(majority of the match was shot using Win White Box value pack).

If you look at the whole match video, you can see how erratically the cases eject. Some go straight forward, some straight back, some to the left!

entire match vid here:

So it's back in glock's hands... hopefully they actually do something this time. I was very strong in my expectations for what comes back to me this time.

-rvb

Edited by rvb
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That must have been pretty frustrating. Kudos to you for persevering. The upside is that you are getting really fast with malfunction drills. (I've been there. I used to have a balky Beretta that really honed my tap-rack-bang skills.)

Do you also get the same dribble effect shooting one handed weak hand?

Edited by Skydiver
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Have you tried a new guide rod with weaker springs? Just thinking of other things that could increase the amount of energy/speed of the slide going backwards. You can get a kit of wolfe springs and experiment. Hope Glock can true up the slide for you.

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That must have been pretty frustrating. Kudos to you for persevering. The upside is that you are getting really fast with malfunction drills. (I've been there. I used to have a balky Beretta that really honed my tap-rack-bang skills.)

Do you also get the same dribble effect shooting one handed weak hand?

One or two handed, different shooters, doesn't matter. Problem went away when we swapped slides.

-rvb

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Have you tried a new guide rod with weaker springs? Just thinking of other things that could increase the amount of energy/speed of the slide going backwards. You can get a kit of wolfe springs and experiment. Hope Glock can true up the slide for you.

same guide rod, but a 13lb ismi spring made no difference.

-rvb

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With a 13# spring, that thing should be ejecting like a beast. I run lighter ammo than you (127-128PF) and have the same exact spring in mine. The main difference between your gun and mine is that I'm running a full-length tungsten guide rod in mine.

I would like to see what kind of tension is being exerted by the extractor onto the case rim. If it's too gentle, the extracting round can slip off of it too early and not really be "kicked" by the ejector. This is common in 1911s, but can happen in a Glock also. If you slip a case under the extractor, it should be relatively tight and require about 26-28 ounces of pressure to slip it back out.

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With a 13# spring, that thing should be ejecting like a beast. I run lighter ammo than you (127-128PF) and have the same exact spring in mine. The main difference between your gun and mine is that I'm running a full-length tungsten guide rod in mine.

I would like to see what kind of tension is being exerted by the extractor onto the case rim. If it's too gentle, the extracting round can slip off of it too early and not really be "kicked" by the ejector. This is common in 1911s, but can happen in a Glock also. If you slip a case under the extractor, it should be relatively tight and require about 26-28 ounces of pressure to slip it back out.

I had put a 147gr dummy round (no primer/powder) under the extractor w/ the slide off and barrel removed. I could lightly shake the slide and it wouldn't move. don't know force exerted in oz, but it seemed to hold as well as a known good G17 slide.

-rvb

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I have a gen 4 34 that sounds like it behaves very similar. My brass seems to barely make it out of the gun and will land within 6-8 inches of my right foot. I have not had any failures to eject but a shooting buddy brought it up after watching me shoot. I am very interested to hear of your results if you are able to improve the ejection. I have been on the fence whether or not this is a problem or just the way it is. I like to be proactive and fix things before they cause problems but also don’t want to try and fruitlessly fix something that is not broke.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a data point for you, I have a gen 3 34 (new in 2005?)that ejects much farther/consistent than yours and has never failed after thousands of rounds. It will shoot/eject reliably everything from 115 WWB, 124 REM golden Saber +Ps, 147s making 135-140 pf in addition to 124s that would barely make minor (Bunny Farts). It runs reliably with either the stock recoil spring or a 13lb ISMI (uncut) on a stock guide rod, captured/un-captured. Even ran it in a match with a S&W M+P spring/guide rod when I broke the plastic guide rod changing springs the night before. So that baby should RUN, no excuses!

David E.

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Keep us posted on your outcome with the plastic. How is it doing?

Came home a couple nights ago and was surprised to find a box from Glock.

I see no sign of anything done to the gun.

I see no improvement in ejecting cases by hand.

I have no confidence it will run.

It will probably be a couple weeks before I can give it a workout...

Only note:

INSPECTED

UPGRADE

TEST FIRED

MEETS FACTORY SPECS

My translation:

Looked at it, wrinkled eyebrows

Put in new slide stop

Shot a couple rounds through it

Didn't jam

At least they put a new non-extended slide stop in. And this time it came back with a different mag.

After dryfiring it, I think they may have put a new trigger/ejector group on, as the trigger safety used to catch some times. But as I really don't think the ejector was the problem I don't expect it to run.

-rvb

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