TGibe Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I read a lot of M2 mod threads here and probably missed the one that discusses what to do to get my new M2 setup for Open division. I have read Jesse's thread on setting up an M2 for 3gun... Seems like most discussions are not about Open setups. I currently have a Remmy 1187 setup for open and decided to move to Benelli... Just not ready to go with a Saiga type SG yet, but love shooting open. Last week I picked up an M2 field 26" for a little over $1,000 locally and ordered the following: -Nordic +8 tube -Nordic tube clamp -Nordic bolt handle -Arrendondo loading chute -Benelli tecloaders (for plastic adapter as I have 6 tecloaders for remington) -Arrendondo jpoint/doctor rib mount (will move my fastfire II to this gun) -DMW Speedbar (carrier release) What mods must be done to get this thing ready to run without spending a ton more money? Do I need to open the loading port? Do I need a CRums lifter? Should I modify the shell catch? Thanks for helping a 3gun and Benelli newb out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyH Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I read a lot of M2 mod threads here and probably missed the one that discusses what to do to get my new M2 setup for Open division. I have read Jesse's thread on setting up an M2 for 3gun... Seems like most discussions are not about Open setups. I currently have a Remmy 1187 setup for open and decided to move to Benelli... Just not ready to go with a Saiga type SG yet, but love shooting open. Last week I picked up an M2 field 26" for a little over $1,000 locally and ordered the following: -Nordic +8 tube -Nordic tube clamp -Nordic bolt handle -Arrendondo loading chute -Benelli tecloaders (for plastic adapter as I have 6 tecloaders for remington) -Arrendondo jpoint/doctor rib mount (will move my fastfire II to this gun) -DMW Speedbar (carrier release) What mods must be done to get this thing ready to run without spending a ton more money? Do I need to open the loading port? Do I need a CRums lifter? Should I modify the shell catch? Thanks for helping a 3gun and Benelli newb out Looks like you have everything you need. Slap it together, sight it in & see how it runs. CRums lifter not needed for open, maybe open the port slightly enough to take off any sharp edges. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwo6.5 Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Port the barrel, lighten the bolt, replace recoil spring with a sure cycle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokshwn Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 If you decide to port the barrel you need to port it at least 5" inches back from the muzzle so you have enough pressure to make it effective. Blend the inside of the magtube opening to make for a smooth transition as the shells are pushed into the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 Looks like you have everything you need. Slap it together, sight it in & see how it runs. CRums lifter not needed for open, maybe open the port slightly enough to take off any sharp edges. Tony Thanks Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 Port the barrel, lighten the bolt, replace recoil spring with a sure cycle. I will look into the recoil spring. Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 If you decide to port the barrel you need to port it at least 5" inches back from the muzzle so you have enough pressure to make it effective. Blend the inside of the magtube opening to make for a smooth transition as the shells are pushed into the tube. Do you mean to blend where the extension attaches or where the shells first enter the tube? Thanks, Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmcc Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I ran a JPoint melt-in rib mount on my Browning and went with the Fastfire Quick bead on my Benelli. I like the Quick bead 100 times more. It makes the dot seem brighter because it's so close to your eye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 I ran a JPoint melt-in rib mount on my Browning and went with the Fastfire Quick bead on my Benelli. I like the Quick bead 100 times more. It makes the dot seem brighter because it's so close to your eye. I thought about the speed bead and may have to take another look at it. I installed a rail on the receiver of my 1187 and have the fastfire all the way to the back so it is pretty close to my eye. If the rib mount puts it too far out then I will order the speed bead. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokshwn Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 If you decide to port the barrel you need to port it at least 5" inches back from the muzzle so you have enough pressure to make it effective. Blend the inside of the magtube opening to make for a smooth transition as the shells are pushed into the tube. Do you mean to blend where the extension attaches or where the shells first enter the tube? Thanks, Allen Where they first enter the tube. Smoothing the transition there will not only make loading them easier, but it will eliminate deforming the crimp on shells as they are loaded which has the potential to cause malfunctions later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 What is a sure cycle spring, what does it do and where do you get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokin Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I have been told by some (This is second hand info as well so take it or leave it) that the sure cycle systems don't really help. I have been told by the guys at XRail that they use a low recoil spring in Benelli's with Xrails that may not cycle with the additional weight of the extra shot and Xrail system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Where they first enter the tube. Smoothing the transition there will not only make loading them easier, but it will eliminate deforming the crimp on shells as they are loaded which has the potential to cause malfunctions later on. OK. That makes sense. I will take a look at that area and see how I can improve it. What type of dremel bit would you recommend for smoothing that out? Or would you do it by hand? Thanks again, Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt1911 Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Where they first enter the tube. Smoothing the transition there will not only make loading them easier, but it will eliminate deforming the crimp on shells as they are loaded which has the potential to cause malfunctions later on. OK. That makes sense. I will take a look at that area and see how I can improve it. What type of dremel bit would you recommend for smoothing that out? Or would you do it by hand? Thanks again, Allen By hand. It's too easy to remove too much with a dremel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 I ran a JPoint melt-in rib mount on my Browning and went with the Fastfire Quick bead on my Benelli. I like the Quick bead 100 times more. It makes the dot seem brighter because it's so close to your eye. I thought about the speed bead and may have to take another look at it. I installed a rail on the receiver of my 1187 and have the fastfire all the way to the back so it is pretty close to my eye. If the rib mount puts it too far out then I will order the speed bead. Cheers FYI/Update - ordered a speedbead. The rib mount wasn't suiting me very well... LOL live and learn The good news is that it looks like Burris will start selling only the mount at the end of March. But for now you need to order it with the sight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmcc Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I ran a JPoint melt-in rib mount on my Browning and went with the Fastfire Quick bead on my Benelli. I like the Quick bead 100 times more. It makes the dot seem brighter because it's so close to your eye. I thought about the speed bead and may have to take another look at it. I installed a rail on the receiver of my 1187 and have the fastfire all the way to the back so it is pretty close to my eye. If the rib mount puts it too far out then I will order the speed bead. Cheers FYI/Update - ordered a speedbead. The rib mount wasn't suiting me very well... LOL live and learn The good news is that it looks like Burris will start selling only the mount at the end of March. But for now you need to order it with the sight. Hope you didn't whack a big chunk out of your vent rib to figure this out! Have fun with open and practice with the sticks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Hope you didn't whack a big chunk out of your vent rib to figure this out! Have fun with open and practice with the sticks. No. Just eyeballed the sight position and decided closer would be better. And yeah, I have been practicing with the sticks on my 1187 open SG for a while now... It will take a lot a practice to get any good though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokin Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I would do the Crums lifter. Its not a "must have" but its definitely a nice to have to keep the benelli lifter from taking off a finger nail if you decide to single feed a slug, or top off the magazine in the middle of a stage with a single shell (IMO loading one by hand still faster than using a tecloader) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmcc Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 I would do the Crums lifter. Its not a "must have" but its definitely a nice to have to keep the benelli lifter from taking off a finger nail if you decide to single feed a slug, or top off the magazine in the middle of a stage with a single shell (IMO loading one by hand still faster than using a tecloader) I agree, if you are only loading one round it is easier by hand. My Open Benny Benelli has a Crums and it doesn't hurt with the loading of a speed stick either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Have u guys messed with longer 6 round Tec loaders much? I found one and it was a PIA to load compared to the 4's. I guess my leverage is less or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmcc Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Have u guys messed with longer 6 round Tec loaders much? I found one and it was a PIA to load compared to the 4's. I guess my leverage is less or something. I haven't. The reason being, I can't find any. Someone posted a want ad in the classifieds about a month ago for these and I posted with it and never got a response. I would love to try one but I do see where the disaster factor is heightened with the longer tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 I would do the Crums lifter. Its not a "must have" but its definitely a nice to have to keep the benelli lifter from taking off a finger nail if you decide to single feed a slug, or top off the magazine in the middle of a stage with a single shell (IMO loading one by hand still faster than using a tecloader) Yeah, it's on my list... I always start out thinking I can do something partially, but always end up spending the money Will also be lightening the bolt at some point too, just don't want to be without the gun for long right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskapopo Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Where they first enter the tube. Smoothing the transition there will not only make loading them easier, but it will eliminate deforming the crimp on shells as they are loaded which has the potential to cause malfunctions later on. OK. That makes sense. I will take a look at that area and see how I can improve it. What type of dremel bit would you recommend for smoothing that out? Or would you do it by hand? Thanks again, Allen By hand. It's too easy to remove too much with a dremel. Very true its easy to dremel material off of something but very hard to put it back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUBL Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 The CRUM's lifter is a must have for smooth loading with tubes. Without it, the lifter will go down a little to far and create a nasty little ledge for the your crimps to catch on. Another thing that you'll want to do is to polish up the bolt and bolt entry points on the barrel.....make that bolt go into battery even if you've only pulled it a 1/4" back. Also......speaking of bolt carriers, a lot people talk about the the ghost load feature that you can do to the Benelli bolt, however there is little discussion about that little slot in the bottom of the bolt that clears the lifter. You want to take that slot and grind it out to the front of the bolt. The reason is.....in the event that your bolt doesn't quite go foward enough for what ever reason and you jam a loading tube into the gun you lodge that first shell base between the lifter and bottom of the loading port tighter than size 10 foot in a size 8 boot!! And at that point...they don;t come out easy. Yeah.....this ain't only for open shotguns, its a good thing to do for limited shotguns too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Any idea where I can pick up a spare lifter to send off to CRUMS? I have heard his turnaround is quick, but would rather not have the gun down right now... Thanks, Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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