joedodge Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 So my local smith got my 625 all slicked up hammer cut down, rearched main spring retuned rebound spring, shimmed hammer and trigger and polished all the internals, extended firing pin and so on. He called last night and said sunday after the match well shoot it and get the strain screw adjusted to wear it doesnt fire and then 1/4 turn till it gos bang consistently then he said mark the screw and thats the sweet spot. I know you guys like the strain screw locked down though. Do I just measure the part of the screw exposed from the frame with a dial or digital caliper and grind that amount off and seat the screw all the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyroWebs Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 If I were you I'd just loctite it down all the way. I've tried the method you described and the screw always seemed to find a way to back itself out and I would get light strikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 do you remove the screw and loctite it then adjust/tune or adjust and tune the apply to the screw and let it dry? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Here's my method. 1) Get the thing adjusted where you want it. 2) Screw it all the way to the bottom, while counting the turns. 3) Calculate the amount to remove. For example: 1.4 turns to bottom X thread pitch would be (1 divided by 32 threads per inch) = .03125 X 1.4 turns = .04375" 4) Remove and file the screw to the correct length and reinstall with loc-tite. Just make sure you count correctly the turns to the bottom and you know what the TPI of the screw is. Also watch the screw while you are test firing, they do like to move while you are testing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyroWebs Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) Edit: Shadowrider has better advice than me Edited January 20, 2012 by KyroWebs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 thanks guys for the help ll have to see how it gos he says it feels good right now and will prolly work but you know there all different so ill have to see were it ends up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 So my local smith got my 625 all slicked up hammer cut down, rearched main spring retuned rebound spring, shimmed hammer and trigger and polished all the internals, extended firing pin and so on. He called last night and said sunday after the match well shoot it and get the strain screw adjusted to wear it doesnt fire and then 1/4 turn till it gos bang consistently then he said mark the screw and thats the sweet spot. I know you guys like the strain screw locked down though. Do I just measure the part of the screw exposed from the frame with a dial or digital caliper and grind that amount off and seat the screw all the way. Seriously? Your local smith didn't bother to adjust the mainspring tension and test-fire the gun before returning it to you? How did he know where to set the rebound spring tension? Or does he not understand these two springs need to be balanced to each other? Dude....I don't know about this guy....hope he didn't charge you a whole lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 So my local smith got my 625 all slicked up hammer cut down, rearched main spring retuned rebound spring, shimmed hammer and trigger and polished all the internals, extended firing pin and so on. He called last night and said sunday after the match well shoot it and get the strain screw adjusted to wear it doesnt fire and then 1/4 turn till it gos bang consistently then he said mark the screw and thats the sweet spot. I know you guys like the strain screw locked down though. Do I just measure the part of the screw exposed from the frame with a dial or digital caliper and grind that amount off and seat the screw all the way. Seriously? Your local smith didn't bother to adjust the mainspring tension and test-fire the gun before returning it to you? How did he know where to set the rebound spring tension? Or does he not understand these two springs need to be balanced to each other? Dude....I don't know about this guy....hope he didn't charge you a whole lot. I've heard this before... the balancing of the two springs... but can you explain what they mean to you? For example.. I like a nice firm reset (rebound)- I hate it when it's mushy or weak... this is true for me whether or not I get a 6 lb pull or 8 lb. On the strain screw... I've only done a handful of my own revos but I've been told they have great triggers. I do something similar to shadowrider's approach. But I have bunch of strain screws cut to different lengths. I go as small as I can till I have some light strikes- then go one size longer and retest. May not be a good gunsmith approach but it works great for me... time consuming though. I have fun doing it. Oh... and I set the strain so it's reliable with Federal NONcrushed primers. For matches I crush them... never had a light strike at a match so far. Knocking on wood... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 So my local smith got my 625 all slicked up hammer cut down, rearched main spring retuned rebound spring, shimmed hammer and trigger and polished all the internals, extended firing pin and so on. He called last night and said sunday after the match well shoot it and get the strain screw adjusted to wear it doesnt fire and then 1/4 turn till it gos bang consistently then he said mark the screw and thats the sweet spot. I know you guys like the strain screw locked down though. Do I just measure the part of the screw exposed from the frame with a dial or digital caliper and grind that amount off and seat the screw all the way. Seriously? Your local smith didn't bother to adjust the mainspring tension and test-fire the gun before returning it to you? How did he know where to set the rebound spring tension? Or does he not understand these two springs need to be balanced to each other? Dude....I don't know about this guy....hope he didn't charge you a whole lot. I've heard this before... the balancing of the two springs... but can you explain what they mean to you? For example.. I like a nice firm reset (rebound)- I hate it when it's mushy or weak... this is true for me whether or not I get a 6 lb pull or 8 lb. On the strain screw... I've only done a handful of my own revos but I've been told they have great triggers. I do something similar to shadowrider's approach. But I have bunch of strain screws cut to different lengths. I go as small as I can till I have some light strikes- then go one size longer and retest. May not be a good gunsmith approach but it works great for me... time consuming though. I have fun doing it. Oh... and I set the strain so it's reliable with Federal NONcrushed primers. For matches I crush them... never had a light strike at a match so far. Knocking on wood... Balancing the two springs is just getting the return spring light enough to feel good and will let the trigger reset each time. As you increase the main spring tension ( with different spring weights) the requirements of the return spring changes. Or at least that is the way I understand it. Later rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 were test firing and tuning the screw after our monthly match together I havent got the gun back hes bring ing it then I was just curious about what to do after we set the tension to the correct point so that i knew for myself knowledge is power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 The only way I have found to make absolutely sure the strain screw does not back out is to drill the frame and install a set screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 I really like the set screw idea what size set screw did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGD Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 What is the best way to cut the screw to fit a 625-8. With the new spring I put in from Bang-Inc if I cut the screw it will be down to the threaded portion. Does that matter? Can you purchase screws that are smaller in length? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosshoss Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 What is the best way to cut the screw to fit a 625-8. With the new spring I put in from Bang-Inc if I cut the screw it will be down to the threaded portion. Does that matter? Can you purchase screws that are smaller in length? I'm sure others will chime in but I have never needed to take off down to the threads with a re-arched main spring like Jerry's or re-arched in the middle. If you do need to go down to threads take a small file and champher(SP?) all the way around the bottom of screw and it will pick up when installing it. If you are worried about messing up threads on gun get a nut from hardware store and put on screw before fileing and it will clean up the threads when you remove the nut after fileing. I use a belt sander but a file will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I'm sure others will chime in but I have never needed to take off down to the threads with a re-arched main spring Something doesn't sound right if you have to cut the strain screw that short. Sure the "stirrup" (that connects the mainspring to the hammer) is installed correctly? It can be installed "backwards". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGD Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Is there a way to tell if it is in backwards? It has an emblem on it and it is facing towards the side plate of the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) If you're going to put in a setscrew from the bottom, you can just use a #8-32 x 1/2 setscrew for the strain screw and not worry about the head. That way it is infinitely adjustable with no hassle. Put a piece of lead shot or brass rod in the bottom hole before the bottom setscrew. When you tighten up the bottom setscrew it won't damage the threads of the strain screw. Edited January 25, 2012 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBrick Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Joe, My 2 cents. Carmoney is right, The rebound can't possibly be tuned to the lowest tension without first determining the mainspring weight required for reliability. I would forget about set screws as I never had any problems with the PPC guns I built in using blue locktite or even nail polish to lock the strain screw when it is bottomed out. I do not believe in backed out strain screws even with locktite or set screws. If you have the proper tension on the mainspring that is required for reliability; then you need to acurately weigh the tension: then start removing material from the front of the strain screw until you have both the same tension on the mainspring and the screw bottomed out. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Is there a way to tell if it is in backwards? It has an emblem on it and it is facing towards the side plate of the gun. One way it's free to rotate and the other way it's pretty much bound up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 For me the only sure way is try, try and try.. all whellgun are different little tollerances, power of mainspring, firing pin, tipe of primers, endshake, size of the strain screw, tipe of hammer, and other much things matters When you found the exactly regulation that you can shoot 300 rounds in DA with the minimun mainspring power as possible and no light strike you are OK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGD Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Thanks guys all is good now and I did not have to cut down to the threads just a bit off the end. Put some blue loctite on it and hopefully i am good now. Thanks for info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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