joedodge Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 My local gun smith is doing the trigger job on my 625 right now. Were doing all the usual stuff remove S/A components, bob hammer remove internal lock stone and shape all internals lighter rebound spring and tune main spring and strain screw. Thing is he always installs the extended firing pin from c&s no biggie ordered it up and gave it to him with the gun but it states no dry fire with out snap caps. So i loaded up dummy rds (dead primers) no pwder that i practice my reloads with anyway. My question is what about when you holster up in the safe area I usually draw dry fire a little, and do the same at the make ready command so does this mean no more dry fire when holstering up or making ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) You run the risk of turning the firing pin spring into a wad resembling a scouring pad. Get an Apex firing pin or a stock one that measures at least .492". Edited January 15, 2012 by Tom E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 hmmmm excelent thankyou for the help i really like warming up with a little dry fire in the safe area and when i make ready Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbcman Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 If it is a titanium pin, snap caps are a must. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 not sure if its titanium or not its a c&s extended pin what do you guys do do you ever dry fire in the safe area (obviously not with dummy rds) or when you make ready do you guys just not bother now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 It's not titanuim. It is S-7 tool steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 thanks Warren so i guess just dont dry fire with out snap caps..... kinda sucks but hey thats the rules i guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 lol i just cant get around that so every time someone wants to feel the action you have to say nah i cant no dummy ammo in the safe area or i dont have any dummy rds the pin sounds like more of a pain than its worth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneton Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I use that firing pin in all my revo's and they are dry fired a lot. I have not broke one in my guns. but I do have extra pins in my box of parts that goes with me to any range or match. Jeremy Hardin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Thanks for everyones input this is interesting stuff ill have to work out with him Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 If it is a titanium pin, snap caps are a must. The stock firing pins are titanium and are just fine dry fired without snap caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 If it is a titanium pin, snap caps are a must. No, the factory firing pins are Ti, and they do not break from dry-firing. The C&S extended pins are steel, and (at least in the past) are known to break from extensive dry-firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 So if i use brass with a dead primer in them is that ok or should i go with the filling the hole with hot glue gun glue method i currently just use shot brass polished with no powder and a 230 gr bullet which should i do? Do the c&s pins break even with snap caps if you dry fire alot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I use that firing pin in all my revo's and they are dry fired a lot. I have not broke one in my guns. but I do have extra pins in my box of parts that goes with me to any range or match. Jeremy Hardin Unfortunately, those extra pins won't help you if the extended pin breaks in the middle of a stage. In my opinion, the C&S pins don't create enough benefit to overcome that risk. I now use them in 617s (although I don't dry-fire those guns), but I'm not a fan of them for center-fire wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Dang now im not wanting it in there as im new to revolver and plan to dry fire a good bit till i get used to it and good and comfortable. but my local smith wanted to do it and does on all the revos he does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 You won't hurt the FP by dry firing a few times in the safety area or during the LAMR procedure. And don't use snap caps or dummy rounds in the safety area at all, can be an expensive mistake. You will need to keep cycling dummy rounds if you don't use the silicone filler. What does cause problems is dry firing at home without snap caps or dummy rounds. I've had C&S (several) and one APEX (they replaced it pronto and free) break. I've had to replace the springs twice. Of course I've also had all of the pins on various S&W Revos break. I do like the APEX FP though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 (edited) I think this all got started, in part, because people wanted to fire .45acp in their 625's without moonclips. The C&S pin is long enough to make up for S&W's ~.015" too deep chambers, and resulting excessive headspace without moonclips. Then S&W started sending out guns with firing pins that measured .485" (and the longer .492" -.495" pin wasn't available) and they could be a problem. So, "long" pins became sometimes necessary and then fashionable and a "must have". The .492" - .495" titanium S&W pins are available again as are suitable Apex Tactical firing pins. The C&S pins are ~.515". The only reason I can see that being a benefit is .45acp without moonclips in a 625. Or maybe in "new style" 617's if the rim recesses have been cut too deep when the chambers were reamed. My personal experience with the C&S pins was they broke and they wadded up the firing pin springs. For a while they were the only "long" pin to replace S&W's .485" pin with, unless you had some of the .492"+ S&W pins still in stock. It's been a while since I quit using C&S pins. Some say the newer ones have been changed to "fix" the breakage issue. Your results may vary. Edited January 15, 2012 by Tom E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Ya i know no dummy ammo in the safe area been at this a while just new to revo. Thankyou for the help everyone looks like i will order another pin to have around where can I get a new firing pin spring though? And does everyone recomend using rds with spent primers or filling primer hole with hot glue from a glue gun as snap caps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 (edited) I bought a C&S pin before reading up on them here. So I filled the primer holes of my dummy rounds with epoxy. I've used fired cases too, but the indentation on the primer gets big in a hurry, so I wonder about FP damage after a bit of use. Not had any issues with the epoxy though. Edit to add: I do dryfire at LMR, safe area, etc. but not do actual dryfire practice at home. So I think that limited dryfire occasionally is going to be okay, but it will add up over time. I look at it as a maintenance/wear issue. But when it breaks, I'll go back to factory or Apex. Edited January 15, 2012 by Shadowrider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Ya i know no dummy ammo in the safe area been at this a while just new to revo. Thankyou for the help everyone looks like i will order another pin to have around where can I get a new firing pin spring though? And does everyone recomend using rds with spent primers or filling primer hole with hot glue from a glue gun as snap caps I once was at the SA at the 87 Nats and who should walk up and start practicing his reloads, with a full mag, but Mike Plaxco! I just turned to him and said, "MIKE! What are you doing?" He got this sick look and quickly put everything away and walked away. Just a humorous story! I have a set with Silicone in the holes and they seem to work good, it's just a bit of a pain to get them filled. Probably should have done them before reloading the bullet in, but I was just lazy and didn't want to remove the decapper. I use spent cases, without bullets, in one clip and then use the silicone filled with bullets as dummy reloads. I don't like using a case with a bullet in it and a spent primer. As there's no way to know that it's not a load that didn't fire and got mixed up somehow. I'm just not willing to take the chance that it could be a live round that hadn't set off the primer and then might. Especially as I may not practice with my revolver for several months at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I would mark the base of my dummy rounds with magic marker as I make them so I know what they are! You can also mark the case/bullet. FWIW Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Thanks everyone for the great advice currently I use shot cases and primers loaded with a bullet and spent primer with the head stamps painted red and the clip lightly painted red also may go the silicone route Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicycle Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Thanks for all the info fellas, been kicking ideas around in my head and needed to use the search function to get sorted out. Looks like an Apex might be just the ticket for my 625 since it is dead nuts with fed primers and spotty ignition with some factory rounds. Not that it will see a ton of factory stuff, but my j frame may get the Apex kit and I may order an extra pin for the big bore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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