Can the uniquetek micrometer powder adjuster replace multiple powder d

[dcmdon]

Hi all. I've currently got a 650 with complete quick change set ups in 9mm and 45. I've been varying my powder charge frequently for use in different guns. I know this product will help with that.

However, after doing some reading I'm thinking that for my next caliber conversion I'll skip the powder drop and try just readjusting an existing micrometer equipped drop.

I'm thinking that the caliper change over won't take much longer, and if I can knock $75 off the cost of each new caliber, it will be a good thing.

I'm interested in any insight anyone may have on this topic.

I'd particularly like to hear from anyone who uses this product to run one powder drop for multiple calipers. I use the same powder in both .45 and 9mm

Thanks,

Don

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[TreblePlink]

I added a Unique Tek micrometer to my 550b. It is an improvement, but when I use V320 for .40 ( 4.70g ) I do not have sufficient repeatability to just reset the micrometer to logged settings - I takes me about 30 minutes of trial & error to reset it, using a 7 drop average.

I don't know if they've changed it for the current model, but mine had the mic body just glued into the slider bar. I flatted one side and added a setscrew. That stabilized it.

[BMartens]

The micrometer can replace multiple powder measures. I have to re-adjust powder measures every time I make a change and the micrometer will get you close enough using previous settings that a couple of tweaks will get you right on quickly.

[Skydiver]

Yes, you can just move the powder bar from setup to setup. Just loosen the screw on the side of the bell crank and slip the powder bar out. Obviously do this with the powder hopper empty, or use the other Uniquetek product to empty the hopper at the same time you are pushing out the powder bar. (I made my own using an unused powder bar.)

I get very good consistent drops with the powder measure bar when swapping it around. It's not just a matter of slipping in the bar, setting the dial, and being ready to go. On my 650, I also have to make sure that the metal rod that is connected to the bell crank is also set same way so that throw distance travelled by the powder bar is consistently the same as well. You may have read on another thread that I get drifting on one of my powder measure bars after prolonged use. That is easy remedied by a small piece of tape around the micrometer once it's set for a particular session.

Oh, another thing: the amount of powder in the stock hopper does make a difference when you are calibrating and loading. To get rid of this variance between a full hopper and a quarter full hopper, you can add one or two baffles inside the hopper. This helps a lot with the fine grained powders. Again Uniquetek has some pre-made, or if you look around the Internet you can make your own using some tin sheets.

Edited October 25, 2011 by Skydiver

[TreblePlink]

I'm curious - do you see the effects of backlash? That is, the need to approach the micrometer setting number from the same direction for each adjustment? Or do you twist back and forth? I'm looking for a 7 sample average to be consistently 4.70 + - .04 or as it weighs - 32.90 + - 0.28 ... Maybe this is unrealistic? It may also be that this small quantity of V320 doesn't meter well due to the size of the granules. I get much better consistency and easier setting using H335 for .223

[Skydiver]

I can crank the dial either direction without issues. But then, I also have the Arredondo powder bar rather than the Dillon powder bar. I think that the Arredondo bar uses a more precise screw/nut combination. Also, I make sure that the powder bar is empty before doing any cranking on the dial (eg. press loading handle is all the way down).

I don't use V320 nor H335 so I can't compare. Powders I've used are: Universal, Titegroup, Titewad, Competition, and Silhouette.

[Alvarez Kelly]

I might suggest a cheap alternative. Instead of having an extra powder measure, or changing the setting using the micrometer adjustment, you could just swap in another powder bar. Having several powder bars, each pre-adjusted for a specific load, would save a lot of hassles. It's pretty easy to find extra ones without paying retail...

Just a thought.

[Youngeyes]

I might suggest a cheap alternative. Instead of having an extra powder measure, or changing the setting using the micrometer adjustment, you could just swap in another powder bar. Having several powder bars, each pre-adjusted for a specific load, would save a lot of hassles. It's pretty easy to find extra ones without paying retail...

Just a thought.

Excellent idea. I think I'll steal it. I steal my best ideas on this forum.

[98sr20ve]

It works well. You can not just crank it from full open to full closed with powder in the cavity. It will try and compress the powder, bad idea. Just lower the handle and adjust with the handle in the down position. I found it very repeatable. Backlash was not a big deal. Powder baffle works well but it makes dumping powder harder. It's very tight. It won't come out once in. Biggest issue with micrometer is I would JB Weld it in place. Mine came out. So have others. Some powder baffles have a larger hole and I don't think the supplied loctite bridges the gap very well. It's a worth while piece. Easy to get to your load. It does spin pretty easy so keep a eye on it.

[Foxbat]

I would not put too much trust into the micrometer, they are helpful, but not perfect. I have several, and some work better than others. Last night it took me almost half an hour of back and forth to set one to the desired weight, even though I have the calibration table for it - it refused to move smoothly at all, felt like someone locktited it.

[benos]

I might suggest a cheap alternative. Instead of having an extra powder measure, or changing the setting using the micrometer adjustment, you could just swap in another powder bar. Having several powder bars, each pre-adjusted for a specific load, would save a lot of hassles. It's pretty easy to find extra ones without paying retail...

Just a thought.

Guys have bought extra powder bars from my store for just that purpose.

One thing I did, if I had one Powder Measure that I used for 2 or maybe 3 different settings... Dial in your first setting, then mark the adjustment nut at 12'oclock with a blue Sharpie Marker. Then when you dial in your second adjustment, mark it at 12'oclock with a black Sharpie Marker. And record in your notebook what you rotated the nut to go to the new setting, and how many rotations it took to get there.

One more thing... as you are making the final movement of every adjustment, always rotate the nut clockwise. (So you are always taking the slop out of the threads in the same direction.)

be

[dcmdon]

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm going to buy one and give it a try.

Multiple powder bars have no appeal to me because I'll use each drop with a single powder and I don't want to have to dump it out

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[98sr20ve]

Clean it real good, use JB Weld. That loctite is a PITA because it can run into the micrometer and run it. JB Weld is thick and wont do that as easily.