Alvarez Kelly

Yes, we can agree that it is more than just the difference in the powder dies. It is the collar to FIT the different size powder dies that is different. It is NOT the powder measure body that is different. I routinely switch powder measures between Square Deals and my RL550s. I just use the correct body collar.

Actually, the Square Deal powder measures do NOT have a different casting than all the others. Just the "body collar" is different. That is what Dillon calls the part that attaches to the powder die. I swap powder measures between Square Deals and RL550s all the time. Now, to answer the rest of the OPs question... there were a lot of small differences in the castings over the years. And as already stated, the various levers or failsafe arms... but in the most general sense, all the automatic powder measures will work on a Square Deal IF you use the Square Deal specific body collar.

I have some of these. There are actually two different kinds... PM me your cell or email address if you still need them. I'll send you pics.

I have those blue knobs that press on the powder measure bolt head. I'll sell them to forum members here for $1.50 each, plus $3 for shipping, no matter how many you buy. PM me.

I think you missed the "with casefeeder" part.

The spare decap pin is part of the conversion kit. Look in the blue conversion kit box. You might find you have one. :-)

Someone else might jump in, but as I understand it, nitrocellulose based powders will attack the plastic hoppers. Many powders can be stored for a while, others will stain and damage the plastic. It's not hard to dump the powder out of the measure. Just loosen the 2 allen headed screws just above the powder die and slowly rotate the failsafe link age out. If it was me, I would not store any powders in the powder measure until you were SURE that your particular powders are ones that do not attack the plastic. Happy loading.

The dies literally drop in under the toolhead. Other than adjusting the bullet seating depth and crimp nut, it's all swapping out parts. If you buy another toolhead. Once you set the adjustments, it'll be just like jmorris said. 5 bolts and done.

Well... What did Dillon say? I bet I can guess. They don't have any of the parts you need to make it work any longer... Your shellplate platform is too "thick." There are actually at least three different flange thicknesses of the various RL450 shellplate platforms. You need the very thinnest one if you want to use the failsafe version of the powder measures. Of course, you could always convert your powder measure to be case activated and eliminate the bracket under the shellplate platform.

I'll give you what you paid for it. :-)

I still have some of the blue rosette knobs. See post #10 and PM me.

Extras are everything. Extra toolheads, powder measures, conversion kits, dies, etc... A good. clean, and reasonably COMPLETE XL650 (with casefeeder) is easily worth $500. Extras however, could more than double that. Good luck to both buyer and seller.

I had a Square Deal do that. The failsafe bracket (between the press body and the blue plastic spent primer chute) was installed upside down. The press worked, but the hole for the spent primers was partially blocked and I would eventually get a bridge jamb. Once I figured it out, it was a simple fix!

I have upgraded several. The auto primer and auto powder upgrades are not cheap. If the press is a great deal, it may work out. There is nothing wrong with a Dillon RL450. Many prefer the solid head over the removable toolhead,

If you have trouble finding the plastic knobs in your local hardware store, I have some. I offer them to members of this forum for $1.50 each, us $3 for shipping, no matter how many you buy. Cheaper than the eBay ones. :-) PM me.

I have a few of the early powder measure arms and some new springs. PM me.

I still have them in blue and a few red ones, a bit cheaper than the ones on eBay... See post #10 for specifics, then PM me.

In short, yes.

Prebaned, I couldn't get your link to take me anywhere useful. Not sure what's up.

It is covered by Dillon's no BS warranty... just sayin'.

I believe you need to tighten the blue wing nut on the failsafe rod.

A basic RL450 without conversions or dies seem to sell for around $250. More if they are exceptionally clean, or have the auto eject upgrade. Less if it is missing parts or pieces.

It's a vent hole. Remove the tape while reloading for more consistency.

Glad to hear it. :-)

You are correct. 1 large and 2 small bars. The extra large and extra small bars have differently shaped openings.