Non priming on 650

[Steve RA]

I had a 650 way back when and then got out of shooting for a # of years. Now back into it and I have a question regarding a 650:

I don't like priming on the press and wonder if all the priming equipment can be removed from a 650 without the brass falling out where it has been removed?? Is there something that can be added to prevent that ??

Thanks !

[sauza45]

Why not prime on the press? If that is what you want just dont put any primers in the press. No need to remove anything

[Too_Slow]

It would be easy. Just use a universal deprimer to deprime then prime the brass manually. In the XL650 just remove the depriming pin from the sizing die and don't put any primers in the press. That way the only thing you change is the sizing die.

Brian

[CHA-LEE]

I don't think that this can be done easily. Since the spring loaded finger that retains the brass in the shell plate on the priming position is part of the primer assembly when you remove the primer assembly that spring loaded finger is gone as well. The other thing you need to consider is that the arm that raises and lowers the lever that cycles the powder measure is part of the Primer assembly. If you take the primer assembly off that powder measure cycling arm is missing as well.

If you don't want to prime the brass then simply don't put primers into the primer assembly. Why not do that instead of trying to reinvent the wheel?

[lynn jones]

i bought some pre-primed brass. i just dumped into the hopper, took out the retainer on the resizing depriming die, and did not put any primers in the tube. worked fine.

lynn

[Cotys]

Agreed, you seat the primer on the up-stroke. Just don't push up after cycling the handle. You could remove the primer tube if you wanted. The brass retaining pin on the shell plate will keep the brass from falling out, it would just be an empty station.

I will admit that I do like the 650 and priming. I use it for 5.56, .40, .45, 9mm and 38 Super. It works well. If I ever have any priming trouble its a new brass (once fired) that the primer pocket needs work.

I load 44 Mag and 450 Bushmaster on a single stage press and manual primer because I only load a hand full at a time. I have more trouble with the manual primer than the 650 .

[Steve RA]

I have a considerable amount of .45 brass and have primed around 5,000 pieces just sitting around watching TV and priming with a hand priming tool.

Just seems like it would be simpler to remove all the priming mechanism if you aren't going to use it.

As far as the powder filling goes, I thought that the arm that sticks out from the priming mechanism was merely there so the rod that makes sure the powder bar retracts would have a place to pass through and also for the spring to bottom out on ??

[BMartens]

Just remove the plastic block on the side of the press that trips the lever. That shuts off primer feeding and all movement in the lower section of the primer system. You can remove the upper pieces if you want them out of the way but, the lower needs to stay and perform those functions of keeping the case on the shell plate and supporting the shell plate and case. Remove the decapper and go.

[98sr20ve]

I have a considerable amount of .45 brass and have primed around 5,000 pieces just sitting around watching TV and priming with a hand priming tool.

Just seems like it would be simpler to remove all the priming mechanism if you aren't going to use it.

As far as the powder filling goes, I thought that the arm that sticks out from the priming mechanism was merely there so the rod that makes sure the powder bar retracts would have a place to pass through and also for the spring to bottom out on ??

You could remove the decapper and the primer punch. Leave the rest and don't fill it with primers.

[Spanners]

You will still need to 'simulate' priming as the fwd part of the stroke is the last part of your case insertion.

I have one of my 650s setup for making 300 BLK brass, I just removed the black block from the press frame.

If I want to load, simple swap of toolhead and screw block back on and go for it.

My 650s both SUCKED for priming when I got them.

The last one was alot worse - 10% failure - so I pulled the primer mech off, stretched the spring thats above the detent ball and reassembled.

100% now