Paul-the new guy Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 If you buy a gun that is "in the white" do you have to have some type of finish put on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Yes - if you don't want it to rust. Saltwater air is more corrosive than freshwater air. You can keep it wiped down with an oily cloth, but that should just be till it gets some kind of surface finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Where you live... yes. Where I live... no. Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 I guess that makes sense.... if I stay outside too long my skin starts to rust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 What are some good finish choices for Florida and what is an approximate cost of getting a gun finished? Do gun smiths do this or would I send it somewhere? Sorry guys I know nothing about this at all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whistlepig Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 (edited) If you want it dark, Black T by Birdsong is a fine choice. Tough tough stuff. No rust. It's been years since I had one done, back then choices were black and olive drab. I don't know the current price. You send your gun to them. Edited July 28, 2011 by whistlepig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
818-DVC Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Bluing will not save your gun from corrosion even if you sprayed the gun down with a rust inhibitor or even cosmoline grease and plastic bagged it before storage when living near the beach or humid salty areas. I had a brand new custom 6" gun rust up in 1 week after doing exactly what I mentioned above. A lot of shooters are switching from hard chrome to DLP or PVD ceramic powder coating. for Hard chrome try metaloy now that tripp doesn't plate anymore. SV has infinicoat DLP, CRN, PVD in clear, black, light grey, and gunmetal grey. IONBOND is the industry standard for these new finishes. Personally, I have no experience with anything except hard chrome, cerakote and gunkote, but after speaking with Brandon at SVI, He claims that they don't offer Hard chrome anymore do to compromising the metallurgy via means of I believe "hydrogen embrittlement". I personally think that after owning a used SVI that was hard chromed by Virgil with now over 100k through the gun after the first 60k, not a single scratch or ding, hard chrome for $2-300 vs $600 is an easy choice for me. I'm not a flashy guy either so I go satin finish. I haven't seen a PVD gun with 160k on it yet so only time will tell. JL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOvalBruin Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 One of the best finishes for guns is the salt bath nitride finish which is basically the Tennifer finish on Glocks. Freedom Gun Works has an equivalent process called atranite. Salt Bath Nitride finishes have more corrosion resistance than hard chrome and electroless nickel and have negligible thickness so nothing would need refitting. It is very permanent though so get all the machine work done before it’s finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
818-DVC Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 and cobalt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 A lot of shooters are switching from hard chrome to DLP or PVD ceramic powder coating. for Hard chrome try metaloy now that tripp doesn't plate anymore. SV has infinicoat DLP, CRN, PVD in clear, black, light grey, and gunmetal grey. IONBOND is the industry standard for these new finishes. Personally, I have no experience with anything except hard chrome, cerakote and gunkote, but after speaking with Brandon at SVI, He claims that they don't offer Hard chrome anymore do to compromising the metallurgy via means of I believe "hydrogen embrittlement". I personally think that after owning a used SVI that was hard chromed by Virgil with now over 100k through the gun after the first 60k, not a single scratch or ding, hard chrome for $2-300 vs $600 is an easy choice for me. I'm not a flashy guy either so I go satin finish. I haven't seen a PVD gun with 160k on it yet so only time will tell. JL You have a gun that has shot over 160k rounds.... WOW. So, I was leaning towards hard chrome now I may have to re-think the whole thing. I kind of like the stainless/hard chrome look the brushed or matte finish but I don't want anything to break... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOvalBruin Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 If you get your gun chromed at a proven vendor you should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4d Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Hardchrome is best, Black T, ION bound, tennifers are second best, all are in the 2-3 hundred range and gun needs to go out. Durakote, gunkote, cerakote, are in the third best class and can be done at home for about $40 or so, These work well and are very corrosion resistant, They will wear and chip though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
818-DVC Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 You have a gun that has shot over 160k rounds.... WOW. So, I was leaning towards hard chrome now I may have to re-think the whole thing. I kind of like the stainless/hard chrome look the brushed or matte finish but I don't want anything to break... at least! I bought an SV used from someone who claimed to have approximately 60k through it. That usually means at least 65-75k+. I have put over 100k according to my range diary. Shuemann ultimatch .400 barrel still has another 50k to go at least as I followed mike's instructions to only run oil patches through it. Remember when reloading components were considered cheap? I did a lot of live fire practice to get away from the wife during a rough patch. I used to shoot 1000+ rounds a week for almost 2 years. then ammo got really expensive, and my son had a lot of health issues, so I dedicated my time to family. it kept me grounded for a while. I'm not advocating what brandon said about hard chrome at all. I have a stainless IMM open pistol I'm buying and will get it hard chromed when the time is right. I have a glock, and the tennifer coat does scratch and wear. I had a screw loose (yes I know) in a DOH kydex holster that pushed a T-nut insert into the inside of the holster and scratched my slide down to the metal. glad it was only a glock. until these other finishes are proven, I'm sticking with hard chrome JL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOvalBruin Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 at least! I bought an SV used from someone who claimed to have approximately 60k through it. That usually means at least 65-75k+. I have put over 100k according to my range diary. Shuemann ultimatch .400 barrel still has another 50k to go at least as I followed mike's instructions to only run oil patches through it. Remember when reloading components were considered cheap? I did a lot of live fire practice to get away from the wife during a rough patch. I used to shoot 1000+ rounds a week for almost 2 years. then ammo got really expensive, and my son had a lot of health issues, so I dedicated my time to family. it kept me grounded for a while. I'm not advocating what brandon said about hard chrome at all. I have a stainless IMM open pistol I'm buying and will get it hard chromed when the time is right. I have a glock, and the tennifer coat does scratch and wear. I had a screw loose (yes I know) in a DOH kydex holster that pushed a T-nut insert into the inside of the holster and scratched my slide down to the metal. glad it was only a glock. until these other finishes are proven, I'm sticking with hard chrome JL The salt bath nitride (tennifer) process adds a black oxide layer which colors the gun black. The black oxide can wear, I have plenty of holster wear on mine, but the metal underneath is still protected because it is a metal treatment, not a coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 My Glock 35 has real bad holster wear but I shot in the rain and the only thing that rusted were my DP sights. Ok, well I am pretty sure I bought a gun! it is the limited gun that is in the classifieds so I will be needing an education! it is this one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
818-DVC Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 HARD EFFIN CHROME THAT BABY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Its on the way to Accurate Plating and Weaponry! Hard Chrome, matte finish on anything that is not flat and brushed finish on anything that is flat! Kind of sucks though, I only had the gun in my possesion for about 30 hours... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Congratulations! Next time, please be a bit more descriptive with your thread title. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2alpha Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Be aware that hard chrome will also rust if you don't take care of it, always lubricate before you put it away and don't seal it up in a plastic box or other container unless it has rust preventive inside with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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