Small Pistol Primers

[Loader1]

I have 6 Dillon 1050's and load a LOT of ammunition for CAS shooters. Last year, after MONTHS of dealing with Dillon techs and the "R&D" guys, on the phone and in-person, after trying many different things, buying the latest fixes (like the redesigned primer slide), and trying every single type of primer out there, I was having so much grief getting through even a few hundred rounds on 4 different machines (one even brand new), that I stopped loading small primers cartridges on 1050's. I use only my 650's now and they work just fine. They, of course, do not swage the primer pockets found on the many import cases, but they do produce a reasonable volumes.

I have spoken to other high volume reloaders and most have done the same as I have. Just stopped using the 1050.

Anyone out there hear of any possible solutions??

Thanks,

Loader

[MI_Packer]

I have a 1050 and 650. They both work great and I prefer the 1050 because priming is so much easier and adjustable. I generally load with Federal primers, some winchester.

The 1050 does take a bit of tinkering to get it all working in sync. My only suggestion is sit down at the press with the manual and start over. Go in the same order as the manual and don't skip a step. Look carefully at all of the parts that touch the primer, perhaps something is worn or broken.

If you do come up with a solution please post it.

[benos]

Loader1,

This may or may not have anything to do with your problem...

There is a very thin shim that sometimes needs to be installed or removed. It's between the "cylinder shaped bushing with a flat ring around it that stops the rearward movement of the primer slide," and the part of the press that it bolts to, SKU 13108.

The correct adjustment of the shim aligns the position of the hole in the primer slide to the hole in the primer magazine tube, perfectly, when the slide is at rest.

Does your machine have this shim? It may only be a few-thousandths thick.

To test to see if the shim is needed, (meaning if the slide hole aligns perfectly with the tube when it's in its rearward position), drop a single primer down the tube and then hand cycle the slide and and see if the primer comes out perfectly in the slide - every time. Do this test 20 or more times. If it doesn't drop in the slide perfectly every time, you will have problems with primers consistently getting in the primer slide.

Before messing / adjusting that shim, start with a new piece of rubber tubing on the primer slide stop pin (I think it's standard 1/8" rubber vacuum hose).

Once I had the primer slide stopping so that a single primer dropped down the tube, went into the primer slide - 20 times in a row - I never had any more priming problems with my 1050. And over 10 years or more, on the same 1050, I loaded a zillion rounds of 40 S&W, with no priming problems at all.

be

[Emerson]

I've loaded over 150,000 rds on my 1050s (2) in the last 8 months. Yes, it took me a while to get the priming system to work flawlessly, but as Brian has indicated, one of the keys is getting the primer slide to stop exactly under the priming tube. On my Super 1050 the slide went waaay too far back. I actually had to machine off about .020" from the cylinder shaped bushing that stops the slides rearward travel. The other is adjusting the little white gadget so that you have just the right amount of clearance between it and the case. After that, you're home free.

Edited May 12, 2011 by Emerson

[Magnus_no1]

I've loaded over 150,000 rds on my 1050s (2) in the last 8 months. Yes, it took me a while to get the priming system to work flawlessly, but as Brian has indicated, one of the keys is getting the primer slide to stop exactly under the priming tube. On my Super 1050 the slide went waaay too far back. I actually had to machine off about .020" from the cylinder shaped bushing that stops the slides rearward travel. The other is adjusting the little white gadget so that you have just the right amount of clearance between it and the case. After that, you're home free.

My 6 month old Super 1050 was exactly the same, it went way to fare. I fixed it in a very simple and effective way. I loosen the screw holding the metal half moon thing that stops the slide. And took a razor blade and put it between the press and the cylinder. And using the tolerance in the screw hole to make the half moon to tilt. This way making it adjustable.

I also did one more thing. I put a small wight on the low primer warning pin.

There is one more thing i don't understand on the 1050 primer system. In the bottom end of the primer tube there is a low quality plastic thing. The only reason for this being designed the way it is must be that you should be able to take it out with primers in it whiteout the primers falling out. I see this part ass a weak link. And I don't think the users of the 1050 in general change primers that often. So I am looking in to replacing it whit something more durable. But maybe I am missing something here.

I love Dillon products, and used them for 15 years with great success. But regarding the 1050. The deliver it to be adjusted to the caliber from factory. Even bringing some test bullets, making you confident in it being adjusted.

But the thing is, they don't do that very well at all. My calibrator hit the scellplate making the shellplate move, the primers did not went deep enough. The expander was set to hard. The walls of the case were actually hitting the insides of the bullet seater. The swagger were set WAY too hard, and the thing meeting the case bottom in the swagger ware to high, resulting in the shell plate lifting up. And then we have the hole primer feeding thing. Would be better if they just left it unadjusted. If I would have just kept it running the way it was I doubt it would hold 1000rds whiteout braking something.

English is my second language. Hope you guys understand what i mean.

Edited May 18, 2011 by Magnus_no1

[benos]

My 6 month old Super 1050 was exactly the same, it went way to fare. I fixed it in a very simple and effective way. I loosen the screw holding the metal half moon thing that stops the slide. And took a razor blade and put it between the press and the cylinder. And using the tolerance in the screw hole to make the half moon to tilt. This way making it adjustable.

Tricky.

I also did one more thing. I put a small wight on the low primer warning pin.

Yes, I taped a 200 gr bullet to the top of the plastic primer follower rod.

[warpspeed]

I must have gotten lucky as I have loaded small primers on both a RL1050 & Super1050 with no issues.

[Magnus_no1]

I must have gotten lucky as I have loaded small primers on both a RL1050 & Super1050 with no issues.

You just proved my point There is nothing wrong with the gear. But the consistence of it being adjusted correctly from factory is lacking.

If you have experience and like mechanics and stuff there is nog big issue. But if you don't then But should you then buy a 1050 in the fist place. In my opinion....NO

Edited May 19, 2011 by Magnus_no1

[Magnus_no1]

By the way, thinking about buying S&B SP primers and use it whith 9mm and Super 1050. Anyone whith experiece. or

Edited May 19, 2011 by Magnus_no1

[Emerson]

I must have gotten lucky as I have loaded small primers on both a RL1050 & Super1050 with no issues.

You just proved my point There is nothing wrong with the gear. But the consistence of it being adjusted correctly from factory is lacking.

If you have experience and like mechanics and stuff there is nog big issue. But if you don't then But should you then buy a 1050 in the fist place. In my opinion....NO

My RL 1050 has been flawless from day 1. My Super 1050 required some tuning to get it to run flawlessly, but we are currently running around 10,000 rounds a week on it with no problem.

[noylj]

I have 2 RL1050s and 1 Super 1050.

They all load small and large primers just fine.

However, I do have a small primer slide that seems to need a chamfer or a larger hole for the primer and punch to pass through. As is, it will not allow the primer to move up through it. If I hold the slide down and put it just the right spot, the primer punch will pass through.

I do know that if any thing out of the ordinary happens, whether it relates to the primer system or not, I have to take the primer system apart and reinstall it.

The slide has to stop exactly under the primer tube so a primer will drop. If it slides even a little past perfect alignment, you will not get a primer. Also, I am sure that you covered it and being multiple machines means that you probably have an issue the Dillon should be actively working on, the plastic tip of the primer feed tube must be in perfect shape and not twisted even a little bit.

The whole swing-arm system seems to work only with everything perfectly aligned. Once it is working, it will keep working for thousands or rounds (or until the press hiccups).

However, it is almost as good as my L-N-L primer feed system which only had a problem loading the last primer (fixed with the Dillon rod).

[RePete]

My 6 month old Super 1050 was exactly the same, it went way to fare. I fixed it in a very simple and effective way. I loosen the screw holding the metal half moon thing that stops the slide. And took a razor blade and put it between the press and the cylinder. And using the tolerance in the screw hole to make the half moon to tilt. This way making it adjustable.

Tricky.

I also did one more thing. I put a small wight on the low primer warning pin.

Yes, I taped a 200 gr bullet to the top of the plastic primer follower rod.

I found that a fired 45ACP brass case fit perfectly over the knob on the rod.

[Magnus_no1]

I have 2 RL1050s and 1 Super 1050.

They all load small and large primers just fine.

However, I do have a small primer slide that seems to need a chamfer or a larger hole for the primer and punch to pass through. As is, it will not allow the primer to move up through it. If I hold the slide down and put it just the right spot, the primer punch will pass through.

I do know that if any thing out of the ordinary happens, whether it relates to the primer system or not, I have to take the primer system apart and reinstall it.

The slide has to stop exactly under the primer tube so a primer will drop. If it slides even a little past perfect alignment, you will not get a primer. Also, I am sure that you covered it and being multiple machines means that you probably have an issue the Dillon should be actively working on, the plastic tip of the primer feed tube must be in perfect shape and not twisted even a little bit.

The whole swing-arm system seems to work only with everything perfectly aligned. Once it is working, it will keep working for thousands or rounds (or until the press hiccups).

However, it is almost as good as my L-N-L primer feed system which only had a problem loading the last primer (fixed with the Dillon rod).

My Super 1050 seems to work 99,99% now. And the very few problems i now have with primers is more likely related to inferior brass. I use random 9mm bra I pick from the ground. I prep it good, but it will never get 100% whit that type of brass. And it's not much the 1050 can do about that.

When I am certain my modifications work 100% I will post it here whit pictures. I have to load som more to be sure.