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How necessary is it to clean brass?


jerryg22

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I'm just getting into reloading and was wondering how necessary is it to tumble 9mm brass that has been used only once or twice? I'm not concerned with cosmetics and will be using carbide dies. What about just soaking them in a solution of simple green after depriming and letting them dry completely before loading powder?

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Not necessary to tumble the brass as long as you remove any dirt, etc that could cause damage to the dies. Also I would use case lube on the cases before you size them-makes it a lot easier on the press and yourself. One-Shot Hornady is what I use-aerosol can.

Edited by The_Vigilante
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Cosmetics are pretty secondary as regards tumbling for me. As you cycle through a few reloads, end up with odd pieces from range pick ups, you'll end up handling your brass quite a lot. That is prime time to pick out bad bits that will inevitably get into your brass bag. Clean brass makes it easier to spot bad cases. It doesn't have to shine, just be clean. Odd colors stand out better. .380 looks a lot like 9mm after about 8 or 9 hundred cases. Split cases are easier to spot. Often you can more easily see weird bulges or berdan primed, brass plated steel. Those cause broken decappers. It is easier on your dies and press as well if you don't have junk falling off the cases. If you can get lanolin, you can make a satisfactory case lube with isopropyl alcohol and about 10% lanolin. It's a very good extreme pressure lubricant and it's easy to clean off. You won't need much. That is what most lubes like one shot are anyway.

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Definitely clean them. Even the carbide dies will wear much faster with sand particles on brass. Another reason - cleaning inside. Often range pickup contains sand or mud inside the shell, tumbling removes it. How clean you make it - personal matter. I like mine shiny, others as stated above just make them clean.

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Cosmetics are pretty secondary as regards tumbling for me. As you cycle through a few reloads, end up with odd pieces from range pick ups, you'll end up handling your brass quite a lot. That is prime time to pick out bad bits that will inevitably get into your brass bag. Clean brass makes it easier to spot bad cases. It doesn't have to shine, just be clean. Odd colors stand out better. .380 looks a lot like 9mm after about 8 or 9 hundred cases. Split cases are easier to spot. Often you can more easily see weird bulges or berdan primed, brass plated steel. Those cause broken decappers. It is easier on your dies and press as well if you don't have junk falling off the cases. If you can get lanolin, you can make a satisfactory case lube with isopropyl alcohol and about 10% lanolin. It's a very good extreme pressure lubricant and it's easy to clean off. You won't need much. That is what most lubes like one shot are anyway.

Where do you get lanolin?

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Cosmetics are pretty secondary as regards tumbling for me. As you cycle through a few reloads, end up with odd pieces from range pick ups, you'll end up handling your brass quite a lot. That is prime time to pick out bad bits that will inevitably get into your brass bag. Clean brass makes it easier to spot bad cases. It doesn't have to shine, just be clean. Odd colors stand out better. .380 looks a lot like 9mm after about 8 or 9 hundred cases. Split cases are easier to spot. Often you can more easily see weird bulges or berdan primed, brass plated steel. Those cause broken decappers. It is easier on your dies and press as well if you don't have junk falling off the cases. If you can get lanolin, you can make a satisfactory case lube with isopropyl alcohol and about 10% lanolin. It's a very good extreme pressure lubricant and it's easy to clean off. You won't need much. That is what most lubes like one shot are anyway.

Where do you get lanolin?

I got a 1# tub through my pharmacy, there are likely on-line sources that are cheaper. Bag Balm and similar products are mostly lanolin.

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I've always read that tumbling after loaded is a no no from a quality control and safety stand point. (changing the size and shape of the powder)

Not true! A complete myth! I tumble my loads for 20 to 40 minutes after loading to remove case lube. I have chronoed hundreds of rounds before and after, using Titegroup and Vihtavuori. About the same Pf every time. No holes in the tumbler either! Ammo looks purdy afterwards! Many folks do this with no problems. I learned about it on this forum.

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I like mine very clean (tumble 3 hrs with case polish) and then lube before reloading... that way when you have a problem with a certain loadout, it's not due to an incomplete job of proper case cleaning.

Remember, there are only 2 things that smell like Fish...and one of those Is Fish!!!!

Gotta be a clue...

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I think cleaning brass is overrated. I used to tumble my brass before reloading but I read in the Lee reloading manual that tumbling pistol brass is a waste of time. That manual also said clean brass tends to leave brass deposits on the sizer, and also claims that the carbon residue on the outside acts as a lube. Whether that’s true or not I don’t know. All I know is after I read it I tried it and I’m not going back to tumbling pistol brass. It takes way too much time and doesn’t make my gun more reliable, doesn’t make more rounds fit in the mags, just makes them pretty. I do a quick visual inspection before I throw them into the case feeder and let’er rip. BTW my sizing die is not wearing down as far as I can tell.

I still tumble rifle brass however because the cases get lubed.

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