Action Pistolero Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 That ejector is way too long. I used to seat Sierra 115 JHP's to 1.250" and ejected with no problems. Take a dremel cutoff wheel and cut 1/4" off of that ejector and the problem will go away. Try to cut it straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter hornby Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 this is going to sound dump but have you checked your callipers to make sure they are zeroed? in looking at your first picture i would almost say your bullets are two long. i run a true bore and i run my OAL at 1.25 with no problem at all. When you pull the slide back can you lock it back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehandyman87 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 this is going to sound dump but have you checked your callipers to make sure they are zeroed? in looking at your first picture i would almost say your bullets are two long. i run a true bore and i run my OAL at 1.25 with no problem at all. When you pull the slide back can you lock it back? I've never checked my calipers against something of known length, but they're mitutoyo digital calipers, so I'm pretty sure the quality/accuracy should be good. Yes, when the gun is empty, I can pull the slide back and lock it back. If there's a loaded round in the chamber, the slide abruptly stops before I can get it far enough back to lock it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 You need to find out why your slide is not going all the way to the rear (see picture). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andoy Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 The length of your loads seem o.k. the length of the ejector is more than likely the reason a loaded round will not eject. So is that to say that my Trubor's ejector just happens to be extra long in comparison to other Trubors? Anyone with a Trubor out there having the same issue? My stock trubor in 9mm major came with an extended ejector. From my experience extended ejectors are only fitted on 9mm open guns to aid in better ejection and reliability. Do what others have said, and grind off the ejector length a little bit at a time until you can cleanly eject a live round without hitting the barrel. Also try to ensure that the face of the ejector is as flat as possible because it may disturb the ejection pattern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 The reason it won't eject is not the ejector. It's the fact that the nose of the bullet is trying to go out through the port when the ejector is hitting the back of the case, but the nose of the bullet isn't clearing the port. Load a dummy round to the same OAL, put it in the gun, and slowly rack the slide. You'll see the bullet start to kick out of the port, but get caught. With the shorter OAL, the nose of the bullet will clear the port and eject. The ejector is forcing the side of the bullet into the port as the extractor is trying to kick it sideways and out. If it can't kick sideways and out, the slide won't move any farther back, as it's binding on the side of the bullet and the ejector. Yes, shortening the ejector will work, but they really need to be shaped when cut, and unless you know exactly what you are doing, you can be making a call to buy a new ejector and waiting for it. So, which would you prefer? Change the OAL of your ammo and see if it works or tempting fate with a Dremel? A Dremel is a wonderful tool to help amateur gunsmiths destroy perfectly good firearms. Remember, it's easy to take off, hard to put back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Pistolero Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 This is a Super and not a 9mm. The problem is the ejector. This is also the reason why the bullet nose dives and stops on the ramp. Cut 0.250" off of that ejector and the problems will go away. It's easy enough to cut it off with a dremel and a cutoff wheel. Don't force it. Let the tool do the work. If you mess it up, send me a PM with your address. I'll send you another one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter hornby Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 i would check to make sure your Callipers are zero. to me your rounds look long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWLAZS Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Are you saying the slide will not pull back any farther? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyburg Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Or have a gunsmith take a look. Never know, besides if the rounds to long or an ejector issue they will know a lot quicker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehandyman87 Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 (edited) The reason it won't eject is not the ejector. It's the fact that the nose of the bullet is trying to go out through the port when the ejector is hitting the back of the case, but the nose of the bullet isn't clearing the port. Load a dummy round to the same OAL, put it in the gun, and slowly rack the slide. You'll see the bullet start to kick out of the port, but get caught. With the shorter OAL, the nose of the bullet will clear the port and eject. The ejector is forcing the side of the bullet into the port as the extractor is trying to kick it sideways and out. If it can't kick sideways and out, the slide won't move any farther back, as it's binding on the side of the bullet and the ejector. Yes, shortening the ejector will work, but they really need to be shaped when cut, and unless you know exactly what you are doing, you can be making a call to buy a new ejector and waiting for it. So, which would you prefer? Change the OAL of your ammo and see if it works or tempting fate with a Dremel? A Dremel is a wonderful tool to help amateur gunsmiths destroy perfectly good firearms. Remember, it's easy to take off, hard to put back. GrumpyOne is describing the issue perfectly. That is exactly what is happening as I try to eject the live round. I also agree with him; I would rather fiddle with the OAL of the round first before I start removing metal. And I'm no gunsmith, so I would almost certainly screw it up. Are you saying the slide will not pull back any farther? It won't pull back any further when the live round is in the chamber. As the round is pulled out of the chamber, it begins to contact the ejector which pushes the round to the right. The round is long enough that as it begins to move right, the nose of the bullet is contacting the inside right edge of the chamber. So the slide movement abruptly stops because the back of the round is against the ejector, and the nose of the round is against the right inside edge of the chamber. Otherwise when empty the slide goes back and forth freely. Edited March 2, 2011 by thehandyman87 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blaster113 Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 the recommended load data from Brazos Custom for .38SC/super is 1.235" oal. I would try loading to that length before taking a dremel to anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 If it doesn't work at 1.235, then, and only then, take a bit off with a dremel. I think the OAL will solve your issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lcs Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 It is a brand new gun! Call STI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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