Love my 550b, hate the primer feed setup

[rjacobs]

To start I have a 550b, had it about a year, always had small problems with the primer feed system(mostly with small primers) and I am now about fedup with it. This is the only issue I have with this machine and when it all works it all works great. Just cant crank ammo out as fast as I would like when I have to constantly babysit the primer feed system.

I went through Brian's primer feed tips that he posts from time to time and nothing seems to work.

Here are the problems I am having:

1: flipped primers

2: not picking up a primer because the slide doesn't go all the way back

3: picking up a primer sideways

4: not seating the primers deep enough causing a click but no bang(with a good striker hit on the primer and second time through all go bang)

5: dead primer chute gets hung up causing either flying primers or the primer bar gets pushed out of position and the ram wont fully lower.

Here is what I have done to try to remedy the above issues:

1: Dissasembled and cleaned the whole assembly multiple times including using scotch bright pads on the surfaces that Brian recommends.

2: installed a new tip to my small primer feed tube(old one was pretty chewed up)-I thought this would fix the issues and it helped a ton(no more flipped or sideways primers), but I still get the slide not going fully back, thus not being able to pick up a primer. If I grab the serrations on the primer feed bar and pull it back, it grabs a primer just fine. I have taken off the small flat metal "spring" and cleaned the little white button/striker looking thing with no change. I would think if something was out of adjustment it wouldnt even allow me to pull it straight back and pickup a primer. I am wondering if my primer slide rod that runs between the two pulleys and into the bar on the primer tube is bent and needs adjustment?

3: to try to fix the primer seating depth issue I have tightened down my shell plate about as tight as can go and still get it to turn. I also double tap the primer seating to make sure on every round I get it seated deep enough. I still get random primers that are not seated deep enough. I dont know how to adjust this portion anymore than the shell plate tightness goes. Can the primer cup/ram be adjusted?

4: I replaced the cotter pin on the primer chute with a safety pin as was suggested, guess what, the damn safety pin within 300-400 rounds bends just like the cotter pin. Thinking of going back to a cotter pin, it lasted through at least 1000-1500 rounds before needing to be straightened.

So, Dillon experts, I am at my wits end and I dont know what else to try beside calling up Dillon and having them send me a whole now primer feed system, which I will do if I am out of options, but I think I am just missing something, probably simple that I can do before calling for help.

[High Lord Gomer]

I swapped parts with a friend until I found the one that was causing trouble for me, though it sounds like you have multiple. Do you have a friend nearby that you could borrow a primer assembly to test?

[rjacobs]

Nobody else I know around here(at least not somebody I know well enough to let me swap parts with them to isolate a problem) reloads at all let alone on a Dillon 550b. Right now I am leaning towards the curved rod that runs from the primer tube and down through the two pulleys as being the main culprit in that its bend is messed up somewhere, or one of the pulleys is not right(but I dont think that could really be the problem).

[n2extrm]

The primer cup needs to be adjust to a critical length. I don't have the specs in front of me but it is in the Dillon manual. You have a very narrow range that it will work in, correctly.

My suggestion is to try and call tech support when you are in front of the machine and they will walk you through it. I spoke to Jim I believe about mine and he was great to deal with.

The dirt is going to collect in the primer slide and that is going to make it sluggish. At least that was my personal experience. Clean it and don't forget to clean it.

The rod or wire that moves the slide back can bend, many have either tweaked theirs or replaced it. I never had that problem. Mine was off to the side, but BE thread helped me find that problem. Keep in mind I have read of guys breaking the wire trying to tweak it.

The primer magazine tip is important as well as making sure it is in correctly, and don't over tighten the nut on top.

In the end I loved my Dillon 550, but the primer system was an issue. I load in long sessions and it would kill me to stop to clean it durring a session.I sold it off and moved on to a (IMHO) much better press. I bought a 650, ok well two 650s now.

[GrumpyOne]

Adjust the primer cup to the following..

Bend the wire to make the bar travel a complete cycle...There are several threads about how to do this...

Did you use a safety pin? Or a clothes pin (the kind you get out of new shirts?)

PS. 20,000+ rounds and I've had one flipped primer The bench came loose and rocked, causing it to flip), and this you will not believe, but it's 100% absolutely true. I HAVE NEVER CLEANED THE PRIMER BAR OR EVEN THE TUBE! I clean off the punch whenever it starts leaving ugly signs on the primers.

Edited December 10, 2010 by GrumpyOne

[rjacobs]

I will adjust the primer cup, that seems to be one issue. I will check the book for that and adjust accordingly. I am guessing(dont have my book in front of me) that the directions are in there.

As far as the rod that moves the slide, I think I need to tweak it, I may just call up Dillon and order a replacement. I will do some searches for the specific threads on how to tweak it.

I think these are my two major problems since I replaced the tip on the primer feed tube(which fixed the flipped and sideways primers).

I used a safety pin(not a straight clothes pin). It has held up worse than the cotter pin, think I am going to go back to the cotter pin(I can buy em for like a nickel so I can keep a supply on hand). I wonder if its possible to drill out all 4 holes slightly and use a small bolt that will have much more strength than a cotter pin or safety pin.

Everything is spotless. I have run alcohol wipes down the tube on a cleaning rod, wiped everything with alcohol wipes, etc... No way its not clean.

[GrumpyOne]

I will adjust the primer cup, that seems to be one issue. I will check the book for that and adjust accordingly. I am guessing(dont have my book in front of me) that the directions are in there.

As far as the rod that moves the slide, I think I need to tweak it, I may just call up Dillon and order a replacement. I will do some searches for the specific threads on how to tweak it.

I think these are my two major problems since I replaced the tip on the primer feed tube(which fixed the flipped and sideways primers).

I used a safety pin(not a straight clothes pin). It has held up worse than the cotter pin, think I am going to go back to the cotter pin(I can buy em for like a nickel so I can keep a supply on hand). I wonder if its possible to drill out all 4 holes slightly and use a small bolt that will have much more strength than a cotter pin or safety pin.

Everything is spotless. I have run alcohol wipes down the tube on a cleaning rod, wiped everything with alcohol wipes, etc... No way its not clean.

You can drill the holes out and use a small finish nail (which is what I've done). I replaced the cotter pin the second day I had it. The picture I posted shows the section. It doesn't really give you any instuctions, just what the measurements should be. My guess is that you have the punch (the thing the primer sits on) too far down. Loosen the set screw shown in the picture, let that bugger rise up some, put a primer in there, and see that it is flush with the top of the primer cup, then tighten the set screw back down. With the operating handle pushed all the way forward, the primer should actually be raised above the primer cup a couple of thousandths of an inch.

[ChuckM]

I also had a problem with the primer not opening enough to pick up primers. First I put some oil on it and that did not work, it was still "sticky". I now lube it with a sticky marine lube, possibly like slide glide. I know this attracts junk, but it's been 100% since using the marine grease. It's just a thin schmear, not a big glob.

I also had a problem where the white pulleys were not in alignment. I fixed that by putting the primer bar in my press and adjusting the set of the pin. Now the actuator wire does not jmp out of the groove anymore.

I also worked on the bends of the actuator wire, to better suit me. I don't know if that really did anything.

Right now it's all 100% with primers. It's working like a charm and I greased it about 3,000 rounds ago.

Good luck.

[rjacobs]

You can drill the holes out and use a small finish nail (which is what I've done). I replaced the cotter pin the second day I had it. The picture I posted shows the section. It doesn't really give you any instuctions, just what the measurements should be. My guess is that you have the punch (the thing the primer sits on) too far down. Loosen the set screw shown in the picture, let that bugger rise up some, put a primer in there, and see that it is flush with the top of the primer cup, then tighten the set screw back down. With the operating handle pushed all the way forward, the primer should actually be raised above the primer cup a couple of thousandths of an inch.

OK, so the set screw moves the primer ram(again for lack of a better term)? I will adjust it a little bit until I get where I think I need to be. That will solve one problem. The other is the primer feeder. I will work on the bend of the little arm until it works 100%. Normally I dont care if I have a primer go click but not bang, but I just started shooting in a small league one night a week and that shit is embarrassing. I guess I could simply use factory ammo for that league, but it defeats the purpose to me and really doesnt fix the problem with my 550.

Thanks to everybody for the solutions. I will reply with what I find out.

[n2extrm]

Remove the primer slide. Place a spent or fired primer in the cup. Measure the distance in the picture above from Grump. Now if you need too you loosen the screw in the slide and adjust the height and lock it back down. Use some care the cup and punch are under spring tension. Pliers maybe required to squeeze the cup and punch. You can also try a bench vise.

[Glock3422]

I have had numerous problems with the primer system.

Mostly, I have had to manually tweak/pull the primer slide bar just a bit further.

Secondly, I have recently had a problem with the primer slide bar getting hung up moving the primer to the seating position.

I have polished all the contact areas and used graphite to smooth the action. I have "adjusted" the action rod a few times with little or temporary improvement.

I have checked the alignment and everything seems to be free.

Oh, I replaced the cotter pin on the spent primer catcher chute with a small finish nail. The bend on the cotter pin was hanging on the pivot action of the chute. Cotter pins use soft metal and wear to a point they bind.

Tweaking the slide bar to move far enough to pick up a primer is not a big problem. The slide bar getting hung up moving back to the seating position is a HUGE problem. I am concerned that excessive movement of the powder bar while fiddling with the primer parts is not conducive to safe loading. Maybe yes, maybe no.

There is some friction/binding problem in the primer system and I still looking for it.

Any thoughts?

[Sarge]

When I had tried everything mentioned so far I finally broke down and called Dillon. The Rep said it sounds like the slide bar might be warped. He sent me a new one right out. Have not had a problem all year. I would call them.

As far as the primer catch bin problem, I have never had a problem with it other than the fairly common primers that actually eject to god knows where instead of falling in the cup.

[Graham Smith]

You say that the tip of the primer feed tube was "chewed up". I'm not an expert and don't play one on TV, but it sounds as if the cup is catching the end of the tip. I would think that could cause each of the problems you mention.

If this is the case, then either the cup is a bit too high or feed tube is a bit too low. The former can be adjusted but I'm not sure how you deal with the latter.

I agree that a call to Dillion is in order.

[High Lord Gomer]

My problem was the bolts that went up and into the primer tube housing weren't straight and when tightened would tilt the assembly and bind the primer bar. I don't know if I caused that by overtightening them or if they were drilled wrong but Dillon sent me a new one and all is well. I broke one or two of those silver rods before I found that they weren't the problem.

[Sarge]

I broke one or two of those silver rods before I found that they weren't the problem.

I didn't break mine but I bent it every which way and it would only help for a short time. Once I replaced the slide it doesn't matter how bad the rod was bent it still worked. I think the rod gets a lot of blame for nothing.

[dillon]

It sounds like the cup and punch on the primer slide are not seated deep enough. Take the primer slide in hand. With calipers, measure from the underside of the primer slide to the top of the cup. It should measure between 1.215-1.220". If it is too tall, then use a clamp or vise to reseat them. Unless you are a bodybuilder, you won't do it by hand.

Now, check the height of the operating rod bracket, stock#13887, clamped around the steel primer shield. The lower front edge of this bracket should be within a few thousanths of an inch of touching the blue frame of the machine. If it is too tall, lower it until a sheet of paper barely slips between them.

Next, check the two bolts that secure the roller bracket assembly, stock#14280, to the underside of the steel platform. If these bolts are loose, not only does the operating rod not push the slide back fully, but the left bolt contacts the top of the primer slide, acting as a forward handle stop. This prevents you from fully seating a primer.

Now be sure the piano wire operating rod, stock#13869, pivots freely in the operating rod bracket.Use without grease here can cause the end of the rod that inserts into the bracket to gall. If the rod does not freely pivot in this bracket, clean the end of the rod and grease it.

For primers not seating, in addition to the loose roller bracket, check the following:

Look for a crack in the crank, stock#13409. If this is cracked, there is too much flex to seat a primer.

Next, push forward on the handle, and be sure the handle does not stop against the loaded cartridge chute bracket, stock #13803. If it does, reposition the chute bracket.

Check for stray spent primers or other debris where the link arms contact the stops on the crank. This debris will prevent primer seating.

What is your bench top made of? If plywood, then the top will flex enough to prevent consistant primer seating.

[GrumpyOne]

It sounds like the cup and punch on the primer slide are not seated deep enough. Take the primer slide in hand. With calipers, measure from the underside of the primer slide to the top of the cup. It should measure between 1.215-1.220". If it is too tall, then use a clamp or vise to reseat them. Unless you are a bodybuilder, you won't do it by hand.

Now, check the height of the operating rod bracket, stock#13887, clamped around the steel primer shield. The lower front edge of this bracket should be within a few thousanths of an inch of touching the blue frame of the machine. If it is too tall, lower it until a sheet of paper barely slips between them.

Next, check the two bolts that secure the roller bracket assembly, stock#14280, to the underside of the steel platform. If these bolts are loose, not only does the operating rod not push the slide back fully, but the left bolt contacts the top of the primer slide, acting as a forward handle stop. This prevents you from fully seating a primer.

Now be sure the piano wire operating rod, stock#13869, pivots freely in the operating rod bracket.Use without grease here can cause the end of the rod that inserts into the bracket to gall. If the rod does not freely pivot in this bracket, clean the end of the rod and grease it.

For primers not seating, in addition to the loose roller bracket, check the following:

Look for a crack in the crank, stock#13409. If this is cracked, there is too much flex to seat a primer.

Next, push forward on the handle, and be sure the handle does not stop against the loaded cartridge chute bracket, stock #13803. If it does, reposition the chute bracket.

Check for stray spent primers or other debris where the link arms contact the stops on the crank. This debris will prevent primer seating.

What is your bench top made of? If plywood, then the top will flex enough to prevent consistant primer seating.

That pretty much covers it. If the primer cup is too high, it won't allow the primer to seat all the way. It would also cause the chewed up tips, as the cup would catch on the tip everytime it went back into the primer slide.

[rjacobs]

Finally got a chance to check everything over and measure it. Primer cup and punch were right at 1.218-1.220 measuring it like 10 different ways so I think I am good there. I think maybe the primer seating is just me being a pansy with the machine. The operating handle is not hitting the loaded cartridge chute, it has at least an 1/8" gap.

The operating rod bracket was to high, didnt measure it but I could see daylight through it so I adjusted it down quite a bit(like .050-.075 didnt really measure it, but it was a large gap).

I polished everything with scotchbrite and then cleaned it all with alcohol.

Didnt see anything else that would cause any of this(cracked or broken stuff).

Put it all back together.

The primer slide goes almost all the way back and then it hits a little bit of drag at almost the very end of the stroke and will not go all the way to the rear using the handle. i have to pull it about an 1/8 of an inch or so, maybe slightly less. Should I just polish everything up better? Maybe take some 400 and 600 grit sandpaper to it to clean up any machine marks?

My bench is 1" laminate counter top built over a 2x4 base(built like a wall with 12" center joists). Its definitely overbuilt and I am sure its not flexing.

I am going to go load some and see if I can work things out by going slowly so I have at least some ammo.

[GrumpyOne]

Alright, I just went out and looked at my 550. Sounds like you need to tweak the silver looking rod (see pic) to make the primer bar slide back further. It probably would hurt to clean it up some with some sandpaper as well. What you want to do is ever so slightly tweak the bottom part of the rod so that it pushes the primer bar back.

[Sarge]

I finally broke down and called Dillon.

Have you?

[rjacobs]

Kinda got it rigged up. If the primer slide operating rod rides in the pulleys(like it is supposed to) it doesnt push the primer bar back far enough. If the primer slide operating rod rides in the slide pulley and on the side of the pulley on the shell carriage it runs like a champ. I guess I need to tweak the primer slide operating rod a bit so that it can ride in both pulleys correctly. I wrapped a rubber band around the rod to hold it tight against the operating rod bracket to basically force the rod to ride in one pulley and on the side of the other pulley. Loaded up 200 rounds last night with zero issues.

[duct tape]

It sounds like the cup and punch on the primer slide are not seated deep enough. Take the primer slide in hand. With calipers, measure from the underside of the primer slide to the top of the cup. It should measure between 1.215-1.220". If it is too tall, then use a clamp or vise to reseat them. Unless you are a bodybuilder, you won't do it by hand.

Now, check the height of the operating rod bracket, stock#13887, clamped around the steel primer shield. The lower front edge of this bracket should be within a few thousanths of an inch of touching the blue frame of the machine. If it is too tall, lower it until a sheet of paper barely slips between them.

Next, check the two bolts that secure the roller bracket assembly, stock#14280, to the underside of the steel platform. If these bolts are loose, not only does the operating rod not push the slide back fully, but the left bolt contacts the top of the primer slide, acting as a forward handle stop. This prevents you from fully seating a primer.

Now be sure the piano wire operating rod, stock#13869, pivots freely in the operating rod bracket.Use without grease here can cause the end of the rod that inserts into the bracket to gall. If the rod does not freely pivot in this bracket, clean the end of the rod and grease it.

For primers not seating, in addition to the loose roller bracket, check the following:

Look for a crack in the crank, stock#13409. If this is cracked, there is too much flex to seat a primer.

Next, push forward on the handle, and be sure the handle does not stop against the loaded cartridge chute bracket, stock #13803. If it does, reposition the chute bracket.

Check for stray spent primers or other debris where the link arms contact the stops on the crank. This debris will prevent primer seating.

What is your bench top made of? If plywood, then the top will flex enough to prevent consistant primer seating.

I received the same reply from Dillon when I called them about a similar problem and resetting the cup/punch depth and retightening the set screw fixed my issue. +1 on using a clamp, don't even try it by hand, the spring is way to stout.

[blaster113]

I had the exact same problem with my 2nd hand 550; I sent my whole press to Dillon and they weren't able to fix the problem. I called them up and they sent me a new primer slide assembly which fixed the issue. One of the small parts was worn and probably out of spec; don't remember which one. I guess with reloading presses you need spares just like we need with guns; stuff wears out because of the amount of rounds we shoot/load.

[Bello]

the quickest fix for that is buy a 650 lol ask n2extrm

[duct tape]

the quickest fix for that is buy a 650 lol ask n2extrm

Is the primer feed set-up significantly different with the 650 c/w the 550? Doesn't there still have to be a tube, and a mechanism such as the sliding primer bar which picks up and delivers the primer?