n2extrm

Hello n2extrm, I have a mostly functional RL 1000 but only have a shell plate for 45 ACP (fits all the shells for that base), a large powder bar, and expander plugs for .45, .357 and a .30 on the way from Dillon. What I would like to find are more shell plates, expander plugs, and especially a small powder bar and spacer which will allow me to at least load the .45 ACP. My case feeder tube is also warped and cracked but that is the least of my concerns. Any help or information would be appreciated. I sold the press after getting it running. It is hard to find alot on these presses. Dillon has some parts available, you can call and speak to them they are great to dealwith. You can also get a copy of the manual from them if that helps.

I sanded the pin (2 actualy) 0ne squared off one rounded and still had problems. I lowered the die till it was touching the shell plate same thing. Finally I swaped the assembly from my .38/.357 dies. Now it seems fine. I decided to try aand run some .38's to see if the problem moved and well it seems fine on that tool head? I am calling it fixed till it stops working because I am happy enough and never home to call dillon when I am infront of the press. If it happens again or if I get a day off during the week I will call dillon and see what they say. Thanks guys!

Just wanted to post a little update on the RL-1000 I bought. I tore it down cleaned it and re-assembled it, got it all adjusted and everything except the case feeder working. The tube for the feeder is warped, and the motors are burned out on both feeders. The Dayton number crosses to a new model and I have found them available for about $80. I think I have enough parts left over to put the second press together but some parts for the case insertion and the indexing pawl are missing. Still would make a great press for .223. Kinda like a 550 with a swage station? http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/n2extrm/100_1339.jpg

My only 2 issues with the 650 were simple. 1) I came from a 550 so I kept (keep) trying to index the press with my left thumb. Not really a big deal. 2) It is costing me a small fortune in range fees and components!

Thanks for the ideas. I did read the chamfer the pin thing and was affarid to try it I will try it nad see. I have a few other sets of DIllon dies, never thought to swap the pin from one to the other I am going to try it and see. The E clip is in place. I will post back in the next day or so when I give it a try. Thanks again guys!

Sarge I swaped the pin and the primers are CCI. I just don't hear the snap like I use to when the pin drops the primer. I couldbe pulling them back in, but I am not sure becuase they are bowed out and completly seated still? They barely come out of the shell plate. Problem is most of the time normal hours I can't call into Dillon. I may have to make a little time to make a call see what they say. MAybe I will turn the die down a little more see what happens?

You can just reclaim the primers that the machine puts down the ski ramp.Simplest way I can think of. I know other dissable the primer system, but I forget the easeist way.

My Dillon 9mm die has started to have a problem de-priming cases. It only dents out the primer on the first attempt some times (seems to be more and more lately). A second or third attempt usually drops the primer right out. The die is adjusted correctly, and sizes the case with no issues, they all drop right into a Dillon case gauge. The die is my first die I ever bought, it has so many rounds through it I could not even imagine the count. It seems like the spring loaded pin is weak? Is that possible? Any way to adjust the just the decaping pin? As far as I know the die was all I can adjust? The brass is not crimped brass, mostly once or twice fired Starline that I bought new.

Thank you Dillon! I actualy got the paper manual with it, believe it or not. Also had a bunch of receipts for parts bought back in 1988-89. I am so torn about sending it in to get it reassembeled. I think I am going to try and tinker a bit and see what I can figure out. It would look great sitting next to my 2 rl650s even if it did not work. I asked the wife if I could add them to the living room................her look was enough to know they won't be in there!

I searched here and it seems they no longer support the press. They had a one year warranty, and the parts are more or less obsolete. What they do have is limited and pricey. I may call them to see.

I just want to preface this buy saying I am not trying to sell this item, I am aware of the forum rules and don't want to get in any heat for this. I am simply looking for some input and ideas. I stopped at a garage sale today and bought a bunch of reloading stuff, mostly components and some shotgun shells, but amongest it was a basicly complete rl-1000 and a second rl-1000 in pieces. It is a little rough but it was part of the whole batch and I got what I think is a fair deal. I am thinking of trying to rebuild it and get 1 running and using the second as parts? Maybe I am better parting it out and selling it on GB? Any thoughts? Ideas of what these things are worth? Should I just make a set of lamps out of them for the living room?

Yes Bello is right, that is exactly how I fixed my 550 primer woes. The only thing that is better then a 650 is two of them one in SP one in LP. I think Bello knows what I mean! The primer system on the 650 is very different. It still uses the tube, but the seating anvil or punch and the primer shuttle or slide is different. So far both 650's have been flawless. If you don't mind the cleaning and tinkering the 550 will run for you.

How old is the case feeder? If more than just a few years, then it is possible it has the problem I had on mine. The motor simply refused to spin. Given the price of a new motor, I took the old gearbox apart, and sure enough, the first gear was plastic, not metal. With time and lube the plastic had become swollen, and it would not spin freely on its shaft. Carefully opening up the hole with a right size drill did the trick, and the hopper has been running perfect for over a year now. I think I had to drill out the rivets in order to take the gearbox apart, so I then tapped the holes for screws. The motor for some reason is not covered by warranty. The case feeder is less than six months old. So the motor is not covered under warranty, I wonder why that is? My friend had a similar problem it ended up being the micro switch. His was a few months old, he called dillon they sent him a new switch no charge. He has been running for months now no problem. I am not 100% but I thought all electrical stuff was a 1 year warranty from Dillon.

Remove the primer slide. Place a spent or fired primer in the cup. Measure the distance in the picture above from Grump. Now if you need too you loosen the screw in the slide and adjust the height and lock it back down. Use some care the cup and punch are under spring tension. Pliers maybe required to squeeze the cup and punch. You can also try a bench vise.

The primer cup needs to be adjust to a critical length. I don't have the specs in front of me but it is in the Dillon manual. You have a very narrow range that it will work in, correctly. My suggestion is to try and call tech support when you are in front of the machine and they will walk you through it. I spoke to Jim I believe about mine and he was great to deal with. The dirt is going to collect in the primer slide and that is going to make it sluggish. At least that was my personal experience. Clean it and don't forget to clean it. The rod or wire that moves the slide back can bend, many have either tweaked theirs or replaced it. I never had that problem. Mine was off to the side, but BE thread helped me find that problem. Keep in mind I have read of guys breaking the wire trying to tweak it. The primer magazine tip is important as well as making sure it is in correctly, and don't over tighten the nut on top. In the end I loved my Dillon 550, but the primer system was an issue. I load in long sessions and it would kill me to stop to clean it durring a session.I sold it off and moved on to a (IMHO) much better press. I bought a 650, ok well two 650s now.

Hey Bello! A little more Dillon info here. The other place is going red!

Thank you! I will give it a try again. I did manage to out run it even though it was full when I started. When you get a rhythm going on that 650 it is amazing how fast it goes. I thought the 550 was good, the 650 is amazing! I wonder if more cases in the hoper might help it keep up? I will try it this weekend.

I recently sold my 550 and bought a 650 with a case feeder (actualy it turned into 2 ). So far I love the press. My only issue is once in a while a case does not fall all the way through the case feeder and jams the plate that spins around and moves the cases. It only happens on on high speed, but I can't run it on slow it won't keep up with me. This press is a dedicated 45 acp press, using the large pistol plate. The bench is rock solid, over built and bolted to the wall. Any thoughts? I was thinking of loosening up the clutch, but it does slip when it happens it does not stall the motor. This is the set up/bench.

I kept the 550 when I got the 650. Figured run 45 on the 650 the caliber I shoot the most, run the rest on the 550. I did not want to change primer systems and caliber conversions are pricey for the 650. Well I am selling the 550 for a second 650. When I go back to the 550 it feels slow to me and I miss the 650. I never really had a great relationship with the 550 primer system and the 650 is much better. I would plan on selling the 550 either now or to fund caliber conversions or a second 650.

Welcome. I am new here too, and from the same great state.

Boxer, My original powder drop has a black bar and does not leak. All my latter drops are silver and all leak. I have a drop on every tool head and everyone does it, never stopped it even as they got older. My friend shimmed his with a piece of an index card under the powder bar and he claims it stopped. I am interested to see what responses you get here. I just live with it. What color are the bars on the measure that doesn't leak? Just curios.

E-bay stuff is tough. Most of the time it gets real close to what you can get it for new, sometimes even more the the price of new. Then you have shipping and dealing with an unknown person. You have to expect that something will need repair or replacement because it was used. I know you can call Dillon and get free parts but you got a new toy and can't play with it. Plus it is nice to have someone to call if things go wrong, and to support that person and there business. Bottom line is it needs to be really cheap to be worth it.

Are you using anything like a powder check or do you have an empty station at position 3? I place the bullet on the flared case at 3 instead of 4, it helps a little. Of course this will not work with a powder check.

Hello every one. New here to the forum although I have read quite a few things here in the past few months. I have been shooting since 1990 pistol and rifle and reloading around 7 or 8 years (just guessing round about). I am new to IDPA IPSC USPA shooting sport, just started this year. Having fun and learning alot. Just trying to stay safe and absorb all I can. I can't even figure out which I like more, but having fun trying to decide. Found this forum on a recommendation from a member of another forum while looking for help with my Dillon 550. Picked up some very useful stuff here. Glad he lead me here!