SingleStacker45 Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Yeah I have dummys that I use, but I guess the rounds coming out wouldn't have bullets in them would they? Maybe I need to used dirty unsized ones. Thanks! +1 on the old dirty cases with no bullets. I was using snap caps and quickly learned I was wasting my time when I finally made it to the range. My weak thumb ejection was no match for my +p load. Mule Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bones Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 A lackadaisical empty case ejection method will not work when a split or dirty case meets with a wet or dirty chamber. Open the cylinder all the way and force the empty cases out with intent and purpose. Avoid putting the gun between the empty cases and the ground. If the gun is downstream of the cylinder (as it appears to be in your video), some or all of the empty cases have to hit it to clear. It is not a big deal with moon clips - the assembly moves as a single unit. It is the whole deal with loose rounds, where all 6 have to clear all the time. Just one case caught or jammed behind the extractor star (usually the empty case in the 5 o'clock position for R handed shooters doing a switch hand reload) will absolutely ruin your day. Make gravity your friend or it will be a mighty enemy. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangertim Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 What are you using to cut down your Comp IIIs? Dremel blade? Hack saw? And how are you ensuring that they are cut evenly with the star all the way around? I'm just getting started with my revolver and this thread has been great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Easiest way is to punch the pin that holds the plastic cover through. Take everything apart. Be careful there is a small spring inside the top portion. Once you have it apart use a bench sander and agressively sand your Comp IIIs down. Then reassemble them. You may want to take a hot pin through the center of the roll pin on top of the loader burn through and with a puch run the roll pin out. That's the hardest part. Then there are two pins holding the top and bottom sections together. Roger Davis has a description on here somewhere that goes into it in full detail. He may even have pictures. I switched to Jetloaders because they are easier to take apart and do the modifications to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Nesbitt Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 What are you using to cut down your Comp IIIs? Dremel blade? Hack saw? And how are you ensuring that they are cut evenly with the star all the way around? I'm just getting started with my revolver and this thread has been great! http://www.coolcerts.com/IDPA/Modifying_Comp_III_Speedloaders.pdf Rangertim, this site is back up and shows how to cut your speed loaders. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 I use my band saw. No dis-assembly required; just ran a bit of blue making tape around the body of the speedloader to mark the cut. Cutting them takes 1 or 2 minutes per speedloader. Speed really isn't the main thing here, though - care is, as you can ruin a brand new never-used speedloader in 2 minutes as well. After trimming them down, I use a blade & file to dress up the raggedness. If needed, I'll fill the center hole with JB weld. Looks like JetLoaders are now coming with solid plungers, so no filling needed. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SingleStacker45 Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 I turned mine down on a Metal Lathe. I learned on the first one to use my flood cooler as the plastic wants to melt. Mule Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eisenhow Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 I turned mine down on a Metal Lathe. I learned on the first one to use my flood cooler as the plastic wants to melt. Mule How did you hold it? I tried both a 3 jaw chuck and a collet and couldn't get a good grip: I ruined one in the process. I ended up partially disassembling them and using a belt sander. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 I turned mine down on a Metal Lathe. I learned on the first one to use my flood cooler as the plastic wants to melt. Mule How did you hold it? I tried both a 3 jaw chuck and a collet and couldn't get a good grip: I ruined one in the process. I ended up partially disassembling them and using a belt sander. When I used a cheap mini lathe to cut the speedloaders down more and cut the diameter, ala Mike Henry style , I took the loaders apart and had an insert that fit into the body to keep the jaws form collasping the loader and cause it to be off center. The Mike Henry cut I am refering to is when the part that hold the rounds is smaller and the rims extend beyond the holder, thus giving more room between the sppeloaders and the side of the revo when reloading. Many ways to cut down the loaders, just go slow and get it right. later rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slflr Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Roger Davis has a description on here somewhere that goes into it in full detail. He may even have pictures. Roger has some more info here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cherryriver Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I hesitate to chime in with my own brutish method in the midst of all of the elegant and sophisticated solutions presented here, but for the terminally lazy, the bandsaw-in-one-piece method is fast if ugly and not likely to get you the pretty girl on the range. Here's a picture. The key element is the V-block. Similarly crude, all it is is a nice 2x4 block with a V bandsawn into the middle. It hold rounds... like dowels, or pipe, or Comp III handles. This really should be done with a metal-cutting, finer-toothed blade, but I'm out of serviceable 18tpi blades so I just hauled off and cut. I go a trace shy of the centerpost and then finish the cut with a utility knife, then dress the holes a little and go. Hard to believe I once was a cabinetmaker, huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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