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Broken trigger spring


TexasShootR

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Shot my Glock 35 at a match Saturday and I had some ok stages but some I couldn't believe the missed shots. When I got home I took it down for a cleaning and found a broken trigger spring. Asked around at the Steel shoot the next day if anyone had seen this happen and some say it would probally go full auto with that spring broken. The gun didn't do that, actually it felt pretty normal the whole day.

So I'm curious if a broken trigger spring would have an effect on accuracy or could it make it possibly go full auto?

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I have seen a gun "double" with a broken trigger spring, but never a full-on full-auto experience.

As a general rule, most people only find out that they have a broken trigger spring when attempting to load a Glock at the beginning of a stage. The trigger won't reset and will remain to the rear. Most people notice this when they draw and attempt to fire the first round of the stage and nothing happens.

There are two emergency solutions; one of which is more-positive, but also will get you DQ'ed and the other is hit-or-miss.

Positive, but risky (in a "Match DQ" sense): Pin the trigger to the rear while racking the slide. The trigger shoe itself will exert some positive lift on the trigger bar and will raise it high enough that it will engage the firing pin and cock it. The gun will run normally for the rest of the stage. The "DQ issue" comes when you get bounced for "finger in the trigger guard while clearing a jam".

Hit or Miss: Rack the slide as hard as you can; attempt to rip it off!!! The violent motion will bounce the trigger bar around a bit and it JUST MIGHT catch the firing pin and cock it. You'll know if it worked because the trigger will move back to its forward position. If it doesn't, it didn't catch.

Are you running the really shiny chromed factory spring (old style), the dull factory spring (new style), or an aftermarket one? Reason that I ask is that I have seen only one of the dull, current production ones break, while seeing countless numbers of the other two break....

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Are you running the really shiny chromed factory spring (old style), the dull factory spring (new style), or an aftermarket one? Reason that I ask is that I have seen only one of the dull, current production ones break, while seeing countless numbers of the other two break....

Soon after I got the gun I installed the ZEV Tech Fulcrum Trigger Ultimate, the trigger spring came with the kit. Here is the spec on the trigger spring from the manufacturer.

Features

28% MORE POWER THEN STOCK, FOR A MUCH LIGHTER TRIGGER PULL AND RELIABLE RESET.

100% AMERICAM AERO-SPACE HIGH STRESS HEAT TREATED AND CRYO STAINLESS MATERIAL.

COMPUTER TESTED RATE ELONGATION.

CLOSED LOOP NO FAIL CONECTION HOOKS.

99.99% REPETITION LOAD FEEL. THE SAME TRIGGER PULL EVERY TIME

EXACT O.A.L -+--0.002

Fits all Glock models

I would like to add that I have been very pleased with this trigger kit from ZEV and I have already replaced the spring with another ZEV spring. I took it Sunday to a Steel Challenge shoot and fired 150 or so rounds through it with no problems. Looking at the size of the spring it doesn't surprise me that it broke after 4 thousand streches.

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Yeah, the problem with the heavier springs (which reduce trigger pull weight) is that they're exerting a lot of pressure on a pretty sharp radius where it meets the lower tang of the trigger bar.

If you really want to run one of those, whether from ZEV or Wolff, it would be worth your time to ensure that the edges of that hole are well-chamfered.

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I replace my trigger spring every 5,000 rounds as part of normal upkeep and maintenance. Some folks might say that "every 5,000 rounds" is really overkill but they're not taking into account the literally hundreds of thousands of times I've dry fired the gun during that time. I've been told "go every 10,000 rounds." I tried it. Around the 8k mark the trigger spring broke. The only time that's ever happened to me, BTW. It's never happened the "every 5k" approach, with any make of spring.

Okay, so much for THAT idea.

I've also been told that the new battleship gray OEM trigger springs are much more durable than the old shiny factory springs, or aftermarket trigger springs in general - so again I can go every 10,000 rounds. As far as I'm concerned, all that means is that I can run a current production Glock OEM spring and be really safe until I replace it at the 5,000 round mark. :)

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  • 2 months later...

My Glock 35 broke another trigger spring this last weekend. I was at the range for a lesson and after about 100 rounds I noticed the trigger didn't reset. Not knowing what the problem was I cycled it and it was fine for a few more shots and it happened again. I cycled it again and it ran fine for a couple hundred more rounds fired. In the course of a thousand rounds it did this four or five times. Good thing was it kept shooting the whole day. Even let my instructor shoot a couple mags through it and he didn't notice a problem, or if he did he didn't say anything.

When I tore it down for cleaning I noticed the broken spring. This was a ZEV competition spring like the other. The spring broke just like the other but this time it was on the opposite side. Any ideas as to why it's breaking. Other than the ZEV Tech Fulcrum Trigger Ultimate kit I added .010inch to the bottom of the barrel lug for tighter lock up. By the way including this last outing I've shot about 3 thousand rounds since the last broken spring.

glockspring.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

The trigger spring has nothing to do with accuracy. And no, it would not make your Glock go full auto. What it would do is make your trigger die until you manually rack the slide which is what you do at the beginning of a stage.

By telling us your pistol ran thru the match one of two things happened:

1) It broke on the last round of the last stage

or

2) You use the trigger reset after each shot which will cause the pistol to continue to run. Good for you!

And yes, I am a certified Glock armorer for 9 years now. In fact, I just recertified yesterday...

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Check the hole in the trigger bar and make sure it has no sharp edges and use a different spring. I change all springs in all my Glocks at approximately 10,000 rounds or once a year for the ones that are not shot as much.

I think you broke the first trigger spring at the end of your shooting if it continued to function without absolutely working the reset or holding the trigger to the rear and racking the slide.

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A problem that the factory guys are seeing is prevalent with the new trigger bars with the groove cut in the lower part of the trigger spring tang: if you're not careful during re-assembly, you will make the spring's hook roll out of that groove. This puts a 90-degree twist in the spring and stresses it.

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A problem that the factory guys are seeing is prevalent with the new trigger bars with the groove cut in the lower part of the trigger spring tang: if you're not careful during re-assembly, you will make the spring's hook roll out of that groove. This puts a 90-degree twist in the spring and stresses it.

Jeez. And that change was supposed to make the trigger spring less likely to break. :rolleyes:

Does it at least work that way if you reassemble things correctly?

There's a reason I run NY1 springs in guns that absolutely must work....

After ten years or so on the platform, the trigger spring truly seems like the Glock's Achilles heel....

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I have given away a trigger spring or two over the years. It's a issue I have never had to deal with personally in either my 17 and 35. Makes me wonder. One would think after all the years of weekly matches (every week) I would have experienced at least some sort of breakage, split or crack or...nothing, nada, zip. I have experienced MANY stoppages in both these guns. Each and every one of those are attributable to...me.

Some sort of unbalanced spring conglomeration or crap ammo. I can wade up a Glock fast given the opportunity. Anyway...dry.gif

Jim

Edited by Jman
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I've never broken one either, and I've used both factory and aftermarket springs in a variety of Glocks with a variety of trigger components.

I think something that hasn't been mentioned is that depending on how you install the spring, it's pretty easy to "twist" it as you're mating the trigger bar to the trigger housing/connector, and I wonder if some of the broken springs are caused by installing the spring incorrectly.

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Thought this post sizzled out weeks ago. Here's an update on the 35. It's been four months now since I started this post and since then I have shot about a thousand rounds a month, without any problems. But to be honest that's about how many rounds the gun had through it on the first spring break. I did end up putting the original Glock spring in the gun so I might never see that spring break. Only time will tell and if it does I'll repost.

Thanks to all that replied,

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Texas,

Wanting to make sure your trigger spring is installed correctly. Mind you this post assumes nothing. Looking at your trigger assembly with the Trigger Mech Housing in your left hand and the trigger 'pad' itself in your right hand. Un-hook the trigger bar from the connector without disconnecting the trigger spring. From this vantage point the trigger spring should be shaped like a S. Is that what you have?

Jim

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