Loaded my first batch...

[famous187]

I just got done loading my first 25rds on my Dillon 550b (thanks Brian!), after all the build up it was ALOT easier than expected. Anyways here is the recipe I used out of Speer #13:

Montana Gold 124gr FMJ

Alliant Bullseye 3.8gr

CCI Small Pistol Primers

Federal and Remington Once Fired Brass

I have a couple questions:

1. I set my COAL to be 1.120. After loading the 25rds I checked COAL and I had varied results from 1.123-1.130". Should I be getting that big of difference in COAL or is that amount normal?

2. Also, the primers are seated below flush on the cases but they're not as deep as my factory rounds. I can put a straight edge across the bottom of the rounds I made and see light between the primer and straight edge but they don't feel as deep as the factory rounds. Anything to be concerned about? And if so, how do I seat them deeper?

thanks

chris

[GrumpyOne]

I just got done loading my first 25rds on my Dillon 550b (thanks Brian!), after all the build up it was ALOT easier than expected. Anyways here is the recipe I used out of Speer #13:

Montana Gold 124gr FMJ

Alliant Bullseye 3.8gr

CCI Small Pistol Primers

Federal and Remington Once Fired Brass

I have a couple questions:

1. I set my COAL to be 1.120. After loading the 25rds I checked COAL and I had varied results from 1.123-1.130". Should I be getting that big of difference in COAL or is that amount normal?

2. Also, the primers are seated below flush on the cases but they're not as deep as my factory rounds. I can put a straight edge across the bottom of the rounds I made and see light between the primer and straight edge but they don't feel as deep as the factory rounds. Anything to be concerned about? And if so, how do I seat them deeper?

thanks

chris

#1. It's normal if you are using mixed headstamp brass, but it could be that the set up is not quite right. When you set the OAL, did you have a case in each station of the 550? If not, the shell plate can "wobble" a bit and when the shell plate is full, it will give a different OAL. But, .007 is nothing really.

#2. If they are below flush, they are fine. As long as they are deeper than flush, then they should be seated to their maximum depth, and should cause no problems.

[Sarge]

+1 to what Grumpy said.

[famous187]

a couple more questions:

#1. I checked all my rounds in a case gauge after loading them and about half of them wouldn't go in all the way. I took those rounds and ran them back through the crimp die and after doing that they fit in the case gauge fine. Does this mean I need to adjust my crimp gauge or something else??

#2. All of my primers have a small indent on them after seating them, almost looks like a light firing pin strike but obviously thats not it. Is that normal or is there a problem?

thanks

chris

[G-ManBart]

a couple more questions:

#1. I checked all my rounds in a case gauge after loading them and about half of them wouldn't go in all the way. I took those rounds and ran them back through the crimp die and after doing that they fit in the case gauge fine. Does this mean I need to adjust my crimp gauge or something else??

#2. All of my primers have a small indent on them after seating them, almost looks like a light firing pin strike but obviously thats not it. Is that normal or is there a problem?

thanks

chris

What die setup are you using in your press? Check the punch (not sure of the technical term) that pushes the primer up...it's probably got a fleck of powder or something stuck on it, and that's marking the primer. R,

[JThompson]

I just got done loading my first 25rds on my Dillon 550b (thanks Brian!), after all the build up it was ALOT easier than expected. Anyways here is the recipe I used out of Speer #13:

Montana Gold 124gr FMJ

Alliant Bullseye 3.8gr

CCI Small Pistol Primers

Federal and Remington Once Fired Brass

I have a couple questions:

1. I set my COAL to be 1.120. After loading the 25rds I checked COAL and I had varied results from 1.123-1.130". Should I be getting that big of difference in COAL or is that amount normal?

2. Also, the primers are seated below flush on the cases but they're not as deep as my factory rounds. I can put a straight edge across the bottom of the rounds I made and see light between the primer and straight edge but they don't feel as deep as the factory rounds. Anything to be concerned about? And if so, how do I seat them deeper?

thanks

chris

#1. It's normal if you are using mixed headstamp brass, but it could be that the set up is not quite right. When you set the OAL, did you have a case in each station of the 550? If not, the shell plate can "wobble" a bit and when the shell plate is full, it will give a different OAL. But, .007 is nothing really.

#2. If they are below flush, they are fine. As long as they are deeper than flush, then they should be seated to their maximum depth, and should cause no problems.

+1

[GrumpyOne]

a couple more questions:

#1. I checked all my rounds in a case gauge after loading them and about half of them wouldn't go in all the way. I took those rounds and ran them back through the crimp die and after doing that they fit in the case gauge fine. Does this mean I need to adjust my crimp gauge or something else??

#2. All of my primers have a small indent on them after seating them, almost looks like a light firing pin strike but obviously thats not it. Is that normal or is there a problem?

thanks

chris

The case gauge is a great tool for checking bullets for guns with tight chambers. Does your gun have a tight chamber? Use your barrel as a case gauge first, then the actual case gauge. If your rounds fit in your barrel, spin and drop out freely, they are good to go.

As for re-crimping them, too much crimp will remove the shoulder of the case, kind of pushing it into the bullet (which may or may not cause accuracy problems, but will definitely cause feed problems in an auto loader). The auto case (most of them anyway) head spaces on the case mouth (the shoulder left after seating and crimping the bullet). If that case is crimped too much, there is no shoulder for the case to head space on, and upon getting stripped from the mag into the chamber, it will seat deeper than it's supposed to, normally jamming itself down into the lands and grooves of the barrel, which can make a for a very tricky extraction. Crimp just enough to remove the bell/flair you put into the case in the powder drop station.

Your second issue is one of dirt....Something is on the primer punch. Take an emory board, and with no primer in the cup, push the ram forward and run the emory board across the top of the punch a few times to clean it up. You'll probably have to do this about every 2-3,000 rounds. All kinds of stuff will get built up on the punch, and even though it looks clean, it can still have alot of gunk built up on it.

[MARKAVELI]

+1. On Grumps post!

[dabeaven]

Again, no expert but I do consult technical manuals and from what I can see, as long as the round will stand on its bas and not wobble when nudged the primer is below the base. That is what it is appeared is required to be considered proper seating. Finally, inspect rounds after firing to see if there are any indicators of high pressure (flattening) or firing pin penetration (escaped gasses and blackening); even the smallest of punctures will display a blackened effect on the shiny primer.

Don

[furyalecto]

I had this same indent mark on my primers. I recently bought a 550b as well.

I took a photo where you can see where the plastic part that seats the primer has a raised portion that leaves the indent.

I talked to Dillon. Excellent service. They immediately sent me another small primer bar assembly. The new primer bar leaves a slightly smaller indent.

It is a very small indent.

They said it should be fine.

a couple more questions:

#1. I checked all my rounds in a case gauge after loading them and about half of them wouldn't go in all the way. I took those rounds and ran them back through the crimp die and after doing that they fit in the case gauge fine. Does this mean I need to adjust my crimp gauge or something else??

#2. All of my primers have a small indent on them after seating them, almost looks like a light firing pin strike but obviously thats not it. Is that normal or is there a problem?

thanks

chris

Edited September 28, 2010 by furyalecto

[jid2]

I'd sand off the small bump on the primer seater so it leaves no mark on the primer. Looks like a slight machining artifact that is creating the bump.

For me I only get primer impressions when powder sneaks in there, otherwise the primers seat without any marking on my 550.

Edited September 28, 2010 by jid2

[gohuskers]

+1 on all the other great advice. Generally it's dirt, powder, or in some cases flecks of metal from the case primer pocket. I have a can of compressed air used for computer keyboards to keep the shellplate clean as I go if there are powder spills, etc.

Length: grumpy is right about the mixed head stamp giving you a slight variance. Also keep in mind that your setup and your arm motion will affect the length. If your press or bench flexes a little this can cause the variance, also the way you are stroking the press. Once you get into a nice, smooth, consistent rhythm you'll notice a lot of the variance gone.

[famous187]

Thank you VERY much for all the responses, this site has been great help.

furyalecto - Mine looks EXACTLY like that, I took some emry cloth too it but it still makes a little indent on the primer. Might mess with it a little more. Is it safe to remove the primer bar assembly with primers in the tube? If not, whats the best way of removing primers in the feed tube?

I shot the first 50 rounds I loaded up and had ZERO problems. They shot great, I'm still a horrible shot with my Glock 19 so I let my buddy shoot some for accuracy and at 10-15yds they were great. I loaded up some with 3.8gr and some with 4.0gr of Bullseye. I really couldn't tell that big of a difference, the 3.8gr grouped better but with that small of sample size and the lack of our skill I'm not sure if it was us or the grain difference. I'm thinking of loading up 150rds each with 3.8gr, 4.0gr, and 4.2gr. Then shooting those to see which groups and feels better, does this seem like a reasonable approach? I don't have a chrono and really don't care about power factor yet, I'm just trying to get my feet wet.

Thanks again.

chris

[GrumpyOne]

I had this same indent mark on my primers. I recently bought a 550b as well.

I took a photo where you can see where the plastic part that seats the primer has a raised portion that leaves the indent.

I talked to Dillon. Excellent service. They immediately sent me another small primer bar assembly. The new primer bar leaves a slightly smaller indent.

It is a very small indent.

They said it should be fine.

a couple more questions:

#1. I checked all my rounds in a case gauge after loading them and about half of them wouldn't go in all the way. I took those rounds and ran them back through the crimp die and after doing that they fit in the case gauge fine. Does this mean I need to adjust my crimp gauge or something else??

#2. All of my primers have a small indent on them after seating them, almost looks like a light firing pin strike but obviously thats not it. Is that normal or is there a problem?

thanks

chris

The two on the right have high primers as well. the one in the middle, not so bad, but the one on the far right, whew!