Separating 380s from 9mm brass

[calishootr]

at an indoor shooting range i used to run, we used to sell back the left on range brass to a commercial reloader, only rub was he wanted it sorted....used to get it swept up all together then go by groups, revolver stuff and auto stuff...the people doing it had a trick forthe auto stuff, pour it all in a large cardboard soda flat(the ones that hole 24 cans) stand everything up, and cull out the various calibers, by then you could run your fingers across the 9mm and 'feel' the shorter 380's and get em out

[AzYooper]

After cleaning and separation of the media I take a handful at a time, about 15-20 cases, and toss them from one hand to the other about 3 times. This removes any stray media, but also helps me identify cases of different calibers. I listen for the sound and if there is a 9mm in my 38 sc I can hear the difference. A 9mm makes a higher pitch, a 40 is a lower pitch and a split case sounds like a piano way out of tune.

[jmorris]

I built this little device back when I built my first bullet collator as a fail safe device to ensure all of the bullets were oriented properly base down going into the feeder. By coincidence it also sorts 380 from 9mm.

In this video there are 2 9mm cases followed by 1 380, two more 9mm, another 380. You can see how the taller 9mm throws the switch, a delay off relay keeps the solenoid energized (and trap door open) until the case drops but closing before the next case gets there. 380s pass below the switch so travel over the door before dropping through the next passage.

Not as fast as my brass sorter but it is hands free.

Click on the photo to run the video.

Edited August 16, 2010 by jmorris

[freakshow10mm]

I can tell when I'm sizing if it's a .380 or not. (9mm is tapered, .380 is straight. Straight wall in a tapered die is "loose" feeling.)

[njl]

I can tell when I'm sizing if it's a .380 or not. (9mm is tapered, .380 is straight. Straight wall in a tapered die is "loose" feeling.)

I finally had a .380 sneak through while loading 9mm. I "found" it after sizing when it and the primer popped out of the shell plate while trying to prime it. Just for the heck of it, I tried to see what would happen if I seated a 9mm bullet in it and was surprised to see the bullet would slide right in and down as far as I wanted. 9mm and .380 are both .355...did the 9mm die not resize the .380 brass as much as a .380 die would?

[JeffWard]

ill just see these little midget cases that didnt get charged with powder when i go to seat the bullet in them, toss it, wasted a primer on it but whatever

Don't toss 'em!!!!

Have you seen the price of 380 these days???? LOL...

I'm buying so 90gr bullets and loading them for practice w/ my Kel-Tec!

Jeff

[freakshow10mm]

I can tell when I'm sizing if it's a .380 or not. (9mm is tapered, .380 is straight. Straight wall in a tapered die is "loose" feeling.)

I finally had a .380 sneak through while loading 9mm. I "found" it after sizing when it and the primer popped out of the shell plate while trying to prime it. Just for the heck of it, I tried to see what would happen if I seated a 9mm bullet in it and was surprised to see the bullet would slide right in and down as far as I wanted. 9mm and .380 are both .355...did the 9mm die not resize the .380 brass as much as a .380 die would?

Correct. The taper of the 9mm case/die won't size a .380 case. It's "easier" to run a .380 in a 9mm die since there's almost zero resistance. It's even less than resizing a 9mm again (like resize, then resize again). That's how I can tell it's a .380 brass in there. I stop it at the swage station, remove, then continue.

[njl]

When I load pistol ammo, I put a little bit of lanolin on my right thumb and index finger and roll the brass between them on the way into station one. This causes the brass to resize as if it wasn't there...so I'm not surprised I couldn't tell the difference between resizing a 9 and a .380. Fortunately, the case head dimensions must be a fraction smaller on the .380.

[freakshow10mm]

The .380 head is the same as the .223 Remington, which is why you can swap between those with just a die change on the press.

[lll Otto lll]

I use the Shell Sorter™. It took 4 seconds to separate the six 380's from the 9mm's.

These sorters are a godsend.

[Boxerglocker]

I use the Shell Sorter™. It took 4 seconds to separate the six 380's from the 9mm's.

These sorters are a godsend.

I really need to get one of those .380 plates for my shell sorter set.

[austex]

I have one of the 380 plates, but have not been satisfied with it. The 380s do drop through OK, but the 9 sticks in the slots, sometimes to the point of having to be pried out. Maybe I got a dud.

[austex]

I use a Dillon 45 acp 100 round ammo box. I dump more than enough to fill each slot, shake the balance off. When all 100 slots are filled, you can tip the ammo box at an angle and see that the shorter 380's will be lower than the 9mm. Takes about 60 seconds to sort out each 100.

I do this when I sort out my 9mm brass after it goes through the tumbler.

JS

Of all of the affordable techniques in this thread, this seems to work the best for me. Thanks for the tip, Jerry!

[SonnyCrockett]

380 is the devil !...........

Nothing like rolling along peacefully on my dillon 550 loading 9MM and a bloody

.380 stumbles onto my decap die and causes an entire meltdown ...

Its like taking a sip of sour milk by mistake

Ewwwwww

Edited November 3, 2010 by SonnyCrockett

[lll Otto lll]

I have one of the 380 plates, but have not been satisfied with it. The 380s do drop through OK, but the 9 sticks in the slots, sometimes to the point of having to be pried out. Maybe I got a dud.

That's odd. My 380 plate works perfect. I just sorted several hundred 9's and none of the cases stuck.

But if you're unhappy with yours...send it back.

[ChuckM]

My solution for sorting all brass of varying heights is to use an 'egg crate' light diffuser panel from HD or Lowes. The are the 2'x4' plastic grid panels that go in fluorescent light fixtures. Each grid opening is about 1/2" square and fits all the 9/40/45 brass that I pick up. My process is as follows:

1. Place the grid on a flat surface.
   
2. Dump a pile of brass onto the panel. You'll be amazed at how many you can do at once!
   
3. Spread out the pile. The more spread out the better.
   
4. "Jiggle" the panel for a few seconds until all of the cases are standing on their heads.
   
5. Pick off any cases that are sitting on top of the grid or laying on the grid. Spreading the cases out more reduces the "double occupancy" issue.
   
6. Lift the grid straight up and place to the side.
   
7. Use any suitable stick or other object to round them all up.
   
8. Sight across to find the "shorties" or "tall-boys".
   
9. Use a parting tool to slice through the pile and separate the undesirables.
   

Enjoy!

Chuck

Edited December 5, 2010 by ChuckM

[G-ManBart]

I color mark my brass so the only thing I pick up is mine. When I get back from the range I dump the cases into a cardboard tray to make sure nothing but my brass made it home with me...pick out any strays and they go in the tumbler.

I'm amazed that people are depriming and cleaning primer pockets...no need, and waste of time, for what we do. R,

[joecichlid]

I'm amazed that people are depriming and cleaning primer pockets...no need, and waste of time, for what we do. R,

I guess I have too much time on my hands. And I have clean primer pockets. lol

Joe W.

[Emerson]

I use the colored sorting trays with the .380 insert. I've had great success using that set-up.

[Foxbat]

I don't see how you can finish loading a .380 on either the 650 or the 1050... you need to not pay ANY attention for that to happen, in my view. So I pull small number of primed .380's out, then push the primers out and reuse them, they work as new, although I only use them in practice ammo.

[Flatland Shooter]

For me its fairly easy. My 9mm open loads (major) use a full case of N-350. Just keep pumping away on the old 550 and when I see gunpowder scattered all over the shell plate, pull out that dang .380 case.

Bill