Jeff686

OK, sorry about that... The guys on ar15.com have said a lot of good things about the one from Primary Arms. However, I'd seriously consider the new one from Bushnell. $144 from opticsplanet.com. A friend bought their holosight for his AR and is very happy with the value proposisiton. Edit: nice thing about it over the Aimpoint, is that you can mount it on the left side at 90 degrees. Close the the slide, but away from the ejeciton port. Should be easy to make a mount for it. http://www.bushnell.com/general/riflescope...phy_73-1303.cfm http://www.opticsplanet.net/printable-bush...dot-731303.html

At what point does it transition from a 'unique design' that is being copied/stolen to an industry standard form factor that is universally acceptable? Optic form factors are very ubiquitous. No one complains that Simmons stole the shape of Leupold's scopes, or did they? They don't complain that Burris stole their red-dot design from Tasco, or did they? How about JPoint and Doctor, aren't they Tasco knockoffs? Truth be told, Intelectual Property laws are very clear on what is 'stolen' and what is not. The poor home inventor not withstanding, usually those laws are successful in protecting a companies interest. I don't think that the little micro sized scopes are illegal, and are therefore not stolen. However, if they steal the circuit boad design, or the optic coating techniques, or any other feature that is patented or copywrited or trademarked, then it is theft. If I need a Ferrari, I'll pay for an Aimpoint, cause they make some of the best stuff. But I'm not going to when a Ford or Mazda will work the same for me. Just food for thought, not meant in an argumentative tone.

13957 primer shield cap doesnt attach to 20900 primer housing and shield. Strange! I've had two SDB, one old and one new. Both had the same cap, and it had threads on the inside, not the outside. Maybe that's a part from another press or somewhere else. Do you have a low primer warning buzzer? The cap fits inside the plastic bracket. Maybe the correct cap is hiding in there... Call Dillon or post pictures here. I'm at a loss...

Look here, page 3. Which part? http://www.dillonhelp.com/manuals/english/...al-May-2007.pdf The older square deal B is almost identical. The major difference is the powder measure. The only layout used a long spring wrapped around the powder bar to return it to pickup the next charge. The new system uses a rod activated safety interlock to prevent double charges.

Charge bar: The only surface of the charge bar that can't have defects is the top part that slides against the powder. The other surfaces can have imperfections, as long as they don't hang up on the housing. In fact, I think you should have two charge bars, one for small charges and one for large. Locator Buttons: You need three. Yes they look like brass screws without threads. They hold the brass in the shell plate at each corner (except the corner where the brass goes in/out). They are numbered because they come in different head sizes. Use all the same numbers at the same time, they are NOT numbered to indicate the position, only to indicate size. Primer Tube: If I remember correctly, there is an inner tube and outer tube. When you change primer size, you change the inner tube. The inner tube goes in (with the plastic tip on it), then the knurled cap screws onto the outer tube, capturing the inner tube and keeping it in place. I'm not sure if the 'aluminum piece' you talk about is the screw on cap, but probably. Don't hesitate to call Dillon. They are super helpful. Also, if you look in the manual or online you can find pictures and a detailed parts drawing of the press. That should help you with setup. Some videos:

Does it add weight to the muzzle?

Parkgt, You might find reloading a lot easier and smoother if you use the expander. A little bell in the case mouth lets you place the bullet into the case anytime, before or after the shell plate has rotated, and you can.... wait for it..... let go of the bullet. And, truth be told, you'd probably get better accuracy, since the crimp die would then have something to work with, and the crimp would be more consistent, rather than just letting the bullet dictate the final OD of the (non)crimp. Oh, and I love my LNL-AP too! I think the quick change LNL bushings are great, and make changing calibers quick and inexpensive. I've had great success with the case feeder, and the priming system works well. Just keep that primer slider dry and clean. I blast it with compressed air every once in a while. Everyone, Hornady is working on a nice little powder stop slider dohicky. It allows for quicker and easier adjustment of the powder-through expander and powder drop. Instead of the powder measure hitting the stops at the top of the stroke, then passing those forces to the expander to add some belling, the powder stop dohicky stops the travel of the powder measure just before hitting the top of the rotor travel, but keeps the forces needed to bell the brass away from the flexible levers and rods. The dohicky has a adjustable bolt so you can find tune the depth of the belling die into the brass. Adjustment is much easier, since you don't have to move those collars around and try to adjust the depth by changing the travel of the rotor. Search my username to find some pics and video of it working...

Maybe this is a hijacking (of the thread), maybe not. I was wondering about something similar. Doesn't anyone worry about their carry-on going through the 'sniffer' at the airports? I've had my computer bag swabbed with a small patch and run into a sniffer machine many times. It might cost you a missed flight and some time in the back room to explain why your range bag / carry-on popped positive for nitrocellulous based explosives (aka, powder residue). Furthermore, my luggage has been searched by dogs many times (usually looking for fruit/plants in customs), and they might be trained to smell some explosives too. I've always been very careful to not use my range backpack as a luggage when I travel because I'm really worried about setting off an alarm. Am I crazy, or should I be concerned? Any TSO people out there? Anyone who knows about the 'sniffers' ?

I don't think there is a lot of demand for it. Unlike bullet feeders and case feeders, you only have to fill the primer tube every 100 rounds. If you have the Dillon tube loader thingy, it's working while you are loading. When your low primer warning buzzer sounds, all you have to do is grab the next tube, drop it in, put it back in the Dillon and dump in fresh tray. That really doesn't take a lot of work or time. However, a bullet feeder or case feeder eliminates a significant amount of manual labor during each pull. They allow you to keep a closer watch on the press and pay attention to possible faults, rather than worring about placing bullets or brass in the press. These days I don't have any primers anyway.

I called them and they gave me a RMA number and shipping address. They said they were working feverishly to keep up with the military RMAs. Mine took about 6 weeks. Was free, however. Here's their contact info: North American - Sales Office Markets: USA and Canada Aimpoint Inc. 14103 Mariah Court Chantilly, VA 20151 - 2113 Phone: +1-703-263-9795 Toll Free: 877-Aimpoint Fax: 1-703-263-9463 E-mail: info@aimpoint.com Homepage: www.aimpoint.com

Called to check on my Aimpoint today. Got a UPS tracking number! It's on the way. Now I can start to practice for the Nationals. If I only had some primers!!

Ideas: Hide them in the X's trunk? Use them as faux tree bark around the shrubbery? Bring me a shrubbery! Randomly place one on a coworker's desk each and every morning? Use a butane mini-torch and make some 3-d art? Cut them up and glue into little mini plastic airsoft pepper poppers? Take one to the bowling alley to fix that wobbly table to keep your drunk team mates from spilling beer on your new bowling shoes? Guess where I got that idea!

Took these this weekend with my new Casio...

I wouldn't put one on my open gun, but I would get one for my AR, 22 pistol, 22 rifle, or carbine. I MIGHT try one of the new Bushnell Trophy micro style sights on a race gun.

yea, typo in the link. Here it is: http://www.orleanscasino.com/groups

What is an HAP? HAP = Hornady Action Pistol Type of bullet.

The standard 3-die set (assuming you are reloading straight-walled pistol cases) includes a resizer, expander, and seater. You can also buy them individually. I always expand the cases. With copper bullets, you can just expand a little. With lead, you must expand more. I usually expand just enough to hold the bullet without needing my fingers to guide the bullet/case into the seating die. If you want, you can powder-drop and expand in the same station. If you choose to do that, you will need a different expander, call the powder-through expander. It fits inside the powder measure and lets the powder drop through it while it expands the case mouth. For some reloaders, combining the expander and powder drop makes room for other features (such as a bullet feeder or powder check). What is strange to me is that Hornady doesn't sell the dies in 4-die sets. I think the 4th die should be the crimp die. Almost everyone uses separate dies for seating and crimping, so it makes sense. In fact, you could argue that most people also use powder-through expanders, and the included stand-alone expander is almost never wanted anyway. In my LNL for 38 super, I use: Station 1: Resize (and deprime) Station 2: Powder drop + expander Station 3: Empty (for powder cop or bullet feeder) Station 4: Seat bullet Station 5: Crimp bullet If I had a stand-alone expander, I would: Station 1: Resize (and deprime) Station 2: Expand Station 3: Powder Drop Station 4: Seat Bullet Station 5: Crimp bullet For 45ACP, I'm a little less picky and seat+crimp at the same station. I have a set of Lee dies from my last press, including a lee powder-through expander/powder measure. I think the Lee powder-through expander is easier to adjust than the Hornady. However, the Hornady powder measure is the most consistent one I've used. Station 1: Resize (and deprime) Station 2: Powder drop and expand Station 3: Empty Station 4: Seat and Crimp Station 5: Empty Hope this helps!

Well i'm not completely stupid, I just didn't know if since most moonclips are cheap, if they expected you to "loose" your moonclips. I thought that would be kinda nuts, but thought I would make sure. I thought I'd get a bigger laugh outa that one...

I take the de-mooning tool with me to the line. That way I can leave the brass and take the clips.

Do you have an old PDA or Nokia phone? Maybe you could get a PDA cheap on Ebay. PDA shot timers: http://www.soft32.com/download_163545.html http://guntimer.com/ui/home/home.aspx

wow I did flinch when shooting that one. I was pulling the trigger while jeff was on the camera. Good observation! Dude, you always flinch!

yes, I set the camera to 40fps and 1/2 second pre-record. As soon as I heard the shot, I pressed the button. Got a bunch, including the whole recoil cycle and brass in the air.

Accuracy is fine. I hit what I aim at. Can't quote you a group size. I'm shooting Montana Gold bullets. 121 IFP. I've got a bunch of other pics, without anything that looks like this one.

Here's some links to the slow motion videos I made today. http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=166435CA8C92988F

I there anything I can add to my load to make smoke? I'd like to take some pics and see the muzzle blast. I know, wait until dark, but I'd like to see some daytime smoke/comp blast too.