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Well.....the CMP itself is just across the state line in Anniston. Don't know about a CMP club.

Yep....precision for slugs.

I was able to make the Progressive button work real well. It required just a bit of build up inside the button. I cut a small piece of hook velcro and stuck it inside the button. It stuck out further and contacted the button sooner. But Mark is right.....the way it comes out of the package.....its a bit harder to push in to activate the bolt release.

Really? I talked to Manny just over a week ago and he told me S_I Tru-Grips were being lasered as we spoke and he should have them in a week. That would make it now. Color me confused. You're right,sorry....that is not 100% correct. They have been totally non responsive so one can only assume they are done. I would not expect to see much of their product.

Tru Grip is no longer but there is a relacement called Gorilla grip made by Millenium Custom. Forum dealer CPWSA carries it.

I have a better idea....lets just shoot and drink cold beer afterwards. Preferrably some of Kurts home brew. When it breaks.....then we can fix it.

I'm pretty sure it will serve you quite well. Keep a couple sets of replacement springs handy and replace them regularly. I run the Benelli standard recoil spring and the I like the Nordic mag tube springs. Also get a few of this lifter dog springs. I never replace just one spring in a Benelli. I always replace all 3. All 3 is like $13. Just good insurance. Make it a habit to replace at the beginning of every season and every 1000 rounds. Its just cheap insurance. Good luck with it. Enjoy!

It cleans up rather easily. Hot water and a nail brush works fine. I swab mine with cotton gun patches soaked with 90% alcohol and blow clean with air. As for removal. It will come off. I use a small screwdriver to pry up under the edge and it starts to tear off in small 1/4" pieces. Kinda tedious but you can get it off if need be. I just did a couple M&P backstraps with it. Really feels and looks good.

Yeah....Mike Benedict is the owner and member Madcap Magician on here helps Mike make them. He is local to me and actually taught me a good bit when I started shooting competition. I've used a many of his holsters in the past. Very functional. They just aren't the prettiest things. IMO.....he could spend a little more time buffing and rounding the edges.....but then again.....his price is/or at least was pretty cheap considering. Also....check with CPWSA. Chris is a forum dealer and stocks the Ready Tactical line of kydex holsters and he had ordered a bunch of revolver stuff for K,L and N frame Smiths.

I've been shooting my Limted gun every weekend for the past two and a half months and one day a week since I have done this and there is no noticable wear yet. I've tried it on other surfaces as well and it seems to be pretty durable and long wearing.

I have a Young ligthened NM and a JP SS lightened. The weight is quite a bit. The Jp is 5.2 ounces and the Young is 7 ounces. A Standard is like 9 ounces. I cannot tell the difference in the two rifles though.

Trapr.......I suppose it will vary on how many wolves it takes based on how hungry they are and their size. On some of the DPMS 308 guns that a few of us shoot.......we shoot alot of Wolf through them. After a couple thousand we started getting short stroking and could not find the culprit. Rob finally pulled a tube off and tried to blow through it and it was quite hard compared to a new tube. So now......we just kind treat it as preventative maintenance. We changed the gas tube on the problem guns and they ran fine again. When I get a more finite number on how many Wolf it take.....I'll holler at ya.

There is only one spring and its the $4 piece that Kenny at SSS stocks. It sits above the plunger in a hole.

Crappy mags? Not enough gas to fully cycle?

Heat the barrel nut and set screws up with a propane torch. It will soften the loctite. Just be sure to wear gloves.

I prefer the Progressive Arms Button. Its easy to install and adds alot of surface area while being cosmetically appealing. The larger button makes disengaging the bolt much easier. The BRA that CATMan has is pretty cool too. I've seen it in person. His smith does nice work on the FN.

Yep....used a 7 minute epoxy made for plastics and painted a decent layer on with an acid brush and then submerged the grip in Black Beauty blasting media. It added enough stiffness back into the thin grip to stop it from trapping(via crushing)mags and its still slimmer than a factory STI grip. Also feels great when shooting. It really allows you to get a hold on the gun.

Well......there you go.

Speed Shooter Specialties stocks them. They are a forum dealer.

I prefer the rifle length system for the smoothest possible impulse. I have a 17" and 18" barrel with rifle length gas. It is very smooth and forgiving and tracks extremely well when coupled with a Titan comp. Mid length works well also. Now there is also an intermediate length which is in between the mid length and rifle length. Mostly in use by Noveske. I prefer the mid length on any barrel 16" or less. You just want to avoid the carbine length systems.

I think Wolf is one reason for your problems. That ammo's gas pressure is low level. Change the ammo to 55gr Federal or similar. We have some experience here of Wolff ammo both 55gr and 62gr. Yes, mine worked also fine with normal carrier but with lightened carier it didn't work with any gas settings I used Change the tube, it only costs couple of bucks. Listen to what Sako92 is saying. Seriously consider changing your gas tube if you run that much Wolf. Gas tubes are cheap. Get used to changing it every 3000 rounds as a preventaitve. Wolf kills gas tubes. Especially in AR variant 308's. You can try removing it and soaking it in Kroil for about 48 hours but that is still questionable.

WOW ......I just saw this and found out I made the big post with six zeroes behind it. Awesome! ima45dv8 said something the other day about this but I was unaware he was speaking of this. Thanks Brian for making your forum the premier sight for competition shooting enthusiasts. Its truly a great place and my favorite place to spend time when I'm on the net. This just made my day! Maybe things are just starting to go my way for a change. First....my beautiful baby girl Kendall and now this.

For the 3 gun matches you will be shooting around your area....the Eotech is not a disadvantage. Its got a 1 moa dot. Your max engagement at A6 multigun is gonna be a 10" MGM flash target at 200 yards and some 4" micro poppers at 50-75. A 1x red dot with a 1moa dot is plenty competitive for young eyes. I rarely crank my scope up past 1x. Especially at A6. There is way more hoser/in your face targets that the Eotech will shine on than there is long range. One stage will have some long range engagement at A6. I suggest you go to the match with the Eotech before passing judgement and assuming that you cannot compete without a variable. Now there are some matches that power is a benefit. In that case.....adding a magnifier behind your Eotech helps alot. I know of several shooters that do well with an Eotech with magnifier.

I really don't think there is anything to worry about. If this ever gains enough steam......it will take a while before it goes anywhere. This is just discussion based on a suggestion in Front Sight. If there is change as discussed in this thread....I will embrace it.....if not.....I'll carry on as I was. Either way it matters not to me. There is always good and bad in new change. I feel I could be competitive regardless.

Charles.....is it going to come to a vote by the BOD? I don't so much endorse it.....but I also do not condone it. I also said I don't think it will ever happen. But 1x optics to replace an optic driven division.......really helps level the playing field. I think my Z6 will stay with me for a while though. It will get good use one way or the other.