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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

CC3D

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Everything posted by CC3D

  1. Interesting.. Do you have any pics of your finished product?
  2. The bullet isn't getting scuffed, the brass is. Sorry if that wasn't clear- there is a scuff mark but only on one side of the case. I can try to adjust again, however if the die is backed off any further the rounds won't plunk. From looking at my finished rounds it doesn't look like there is too much crimp on there.
  3. I recently started seating and crimping in separate steps after having issues with shavings when combining the steps. I am now having continuous issues with getting the crimp step just right- I was using a lee FCD die but my coated bullets didn't like it. I am now using a lee taper crimp die with more success- but am now getting scuff marks on most of my finished rounds. I'm using case lube but I'm feeling a bit of resistance going into the taper crimp die- I'm using a very small amount of bell on the case, any less and I'll start shaving the coating off my bullets. Cant figure out what is causing the issues- any insight would be helpful.
  4. Gotta be careful with pouch/ holster placement, needs to be placed on the joint instead of the link- helps mitigate rotation. As @tt350z mentioned, the correct inner belt is crucial- I have not had an issue with rotation myself but I can see why it might happen.
  5. Thanks for the update! Really looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
  6. Been 14 weeks... keeping us in suspense here. Any updates from Bar-Sto?
  7. There was a while there where infinity was posting their "2011 CO" builds on the competitive shooting subreddit over and over- was not well received and they got ratio'd a lot in the comments lol, haven't seen one of those posts in a while. You can search it up and read through the comments, it's pretty obvious what they're trying to do based on the tone of the posts. Not to mention infinity put on it's own match (infinity open 2022) under the USPSA rule set but created an entire division for 2011's with slide ride optics....
  8. yep. agree 100%. that was an unnecessary tweak to the rules to appease a minority of people and so is adding 2011's to CO
  9. Please. In reality there is a very small minority of people who have 9mm 2011's with a slide ride optic that want to shoot it in USPSA. We dont need to go changing our entire rule set so that small number of people can play in CO instead of open. Not to mention we'd be creating a huge **perceived** gear race in the process.
  10. Jeeeeez. Nice collection man- looks like you have enough to not miss one if you're feeling generous
  11. I've had mine for a few months now. I love the thing. It's the stiffest belt you can buy, which is awesome- but not the main benefit in my opinion. Because the design allows it to easily roll on itself, it contours perfectly to your inner belt/ body. This means it distributes the weight much more evenly compared to traditional belt styles. I had my buddy try my rig on, and he couldn't believe how "light" my belt felt on him- come to find out my rig as a whole is actually substantially heavier than his, but because of the weight distribution feels much lighter. Definitely an upgrade to the traditional belt style imo.
  12. .....titegroup I know you said low smoke but it burns very fast and is great with heavier bullets. I really dont think my loads are much smokier than my buddies who shoot a variety of other powders.
  13. Put simply the ones that have the muzzle support have one version, the one without it has another. Pretty sure both will wear on your finish eventually- still worth it over kydex.
  14. I do have wear on my finish from using "the one evo"- but "the one s" has the same mechanism as "the one evo", they only differ with the color pattern. The "ultimate evo" has a different mechanism (more of a polished ball) that may be easier on your finish, but that would be pure speculation. I think these style of holsters tend to just wear on that area of your trigger guard- but purely a cosmetic difference
  15. I have a ghost one eve for my TSO. It's great- dont hesitate to buy. If you want to save 40 bucks or so on the hanger I use a 3d printed drop/offset that works with a tek-lok I'll send you the file for.
  16. Season 4 slaps. Especially after the disappointment of season 3, this one had no business being as good as it was.
  17. As others have said, if it worked on the 550 I dont see why it would be an issue on the 750. I might add also, these progressive machines aren't magic. They require some careful tuning to get running 100%. I had a buddy who recently switched to progressive loading for the first time and was extremely frustrated with his machine saying the same things you are in regards to money spent. I took a look at his press and it just needed some tuning/ calibration- it may not be realistic to expect it will work 100% out of the box.. Speak to a Dillon tech as another said here, they will set you up right. Good luck with your machine I hope this is a small speed bump on the road to having a great running press. Keep us posted
  18. CC3D

    TSO 3D Printed Magwell

    PM me if interested!
  19. CC3D

    Mag Surface Rust

    I've had an ongoing issue with surface rust on my TS magazines. Hitting with some steel wool and keeping a film of oil on the mags at all times has worked, but wiping them down and re-oiling them even time I touch them is getting tedious. Are there any simple solutions or diy home coatings that will work for surface rust on a magazine specifically? I feel that sending them off to be coated is a bit drastic but just trying to explore options.
  20. 2 best options as I see it are: 1) Assuming you're a competitor, make an announcement at your next local match or post in your local club's FB group that you have one for sale. Someone will probably bite 2) Join in on some discussions here and eventually get access to the classifieds, but dont just bump up your post count with random bs Could also try gunbroker, and reddit or the reloading discord both have places where one can sell equipment to my knowledge. Good luck to ya
  21. Take a slow mo video on your phone. Use progressively lighter springs until you get 0 muzzle dip as the slide returns. Return to zero > arbitrary ejection distance I struggled with the ejection distance thing for a while but came to terms with it- you're not going to hurt your gun
  22. CC3D

    .40 Syntech in a TSO

    I was using 165's syntechs which I found pretty snappy out of my tso (at least in comparison to my reloads). I really my error now, OP was asking about 200 gn. Regardless of the weight they run well in the TSO and would probably be my go to if I shot factory.
  23. It sounds like you got the ammo mike feeder or similar. Far better designs are out there now optimized for printing. Being able to make parts on demand for cheap is the benefit to 3D printing- buying 3D printed things from others defeats this purpose. If a part of my "generic plastic" feeder happens to fail, I can instantly make another. Not everyone is willing to tinker and would rather spend the money, thats fine. But if you really cant see how making a perfectly functional item for 50 dollars versus buying it for 500 isn't beneficial, idk what else to say.
  24. You bought it from someone, instead of making it yourself. That defeats the entire purpose of a 3D printed part!
  25. My 3D printed feeder runs flawlessly and cost 1/10th a DAA feeder. Is the DAA feeder objectively better? Probably. Is it 450 dollars better? no lol If you're a DIY person and like undertaking projects, 3D printed bullet/ case feeders are the way to go. I'd even argue it's worth investing in a 3D printer for 150 bucks just to make the feeders. You can realistically make a case AND bullet feeder for ~250 bucks including the cost of the printer and filament. Not to mention all of the other competitive shooting/ reloading related items a printer will be able to make for you. But if you're not someone who likes to tinker and would rather spend the money, sure, spend 800+ on a case and bullet feeder
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