CC3D

This is an idea I've dwelled on a little bit and just wanted to put some thoughts down about. I really like the idea of major/ minor scoring in USPSA. It adds variety in how different divisions can approach stages or the philosophy of shooting in general. Even though .40 is a dead or dying caliber outside of this sport, I really like it for major power factor. I'll take reloading below factory PF any day over having to load above the intended specs for a given round. I am not crapping on 9 major by any means, but for me personally, I like not needing to worry about excessive wear on parts and the potential complications of running 9 major. I think a 168-170 pf .40 load in a properly tuned limited gun shoots pretty dang nice. All of that to say, I dont think allowing 9 major in limited division will kill .40 major. In an uncomped gun (with literally nothing more than speculation), I'd imagine .40 major is probably nicer shooting than 9 major. Could even balance out the extra few rounds 9 would allow for. I certainly wouldn't be selling my limited gun anytime soon. I'm not advocating for 9 major in limited, I think its a real bad idea unless power factor floor is dropped a bit, but I dont think it would kill .40 out right. I bring up the 9 major in limited thing because I hear it a lot from my buddies "I'd shoot limited if I could run 9 major", which is a pretty strongly opposed concept from what I gather. Just some thoughts. I get teased by my CO squad buddies about my "boomer division", but I'm still blowing their socks off in the overall. I'll stick with my boomer division for a while!

I am trying to avoid doing this, as I mentioned above I am already aware of this solution

As some people already said, I think it can cause problems for depth perception and shot calling. I can see the potential benefit if you're limited by distance at your range (some ranges may not let you place a target a certain distance from the berm), but regardless you'll only be training part of the skill you're focusing on with distance change ups. For the cost savings though, I usually just take shot up targets home after a match. They cost nothing, and unless your club prohibits it for some weird reason there is no reason to spend extra money on mini targets outside of dry fire IMHO. Better yet, cut the D zone off the used targets and boom, you have a reduced size target.

I hope I can explain this well without pictures, here goes. The 750 has the issue where running a bullet feeder in position 4 gets in the way of the powder drop. There are several solutions for this, getting the short throw bar from DAA, using springs instead of the failsafe rod, etc. One more solution I have thought of is simply rotating the measure so that the factory powder bar clears the bullet drop die. This obviously creates an issue with making the failsafe rod aligned improperly. My question therefor is, does anyone see an issue with relocating the bracket on the bottom of the Dillon (the one connected to the primer slide) where the failsafe rod interfaces? You could in theory move the bracket to be properly in line with the new location of the failsafe rod. My idea is to take some measurements and model one to 3D print. Before proceeding with this idea I wanted to run it by some other brains just to see if I'm inadvertently doing some damage or solving a problem that already has a solution. I hope that makes sense, will post some pictures for clarification if needed.

It's a good practice for sure. I try to go every few years given my circumstance, but anyone with any kind of frequent loud noise exposure should at least get a baseline.

I'm happy to report that after another visit to the ENT/ audiologist, I have not lost any hearing function. I have suffered from tinnitus for a few years due to loud noise exposure, not shooting related. For the past year or so I was to a place where I barely noticed it. After running shooters all weekend in a GSSF match, it was back with a vengeance. I wore my ear pro the whole time as I am always diligent, but man has the ringing been bad ever since. I went in again to get a hearing test just to be sure, as I am very worried about hearing loss (still in my early 20's over here). My hearing is still on the upper end of normal according to the tests, and I'm feeling relieved. I was to a point in my mind that if my hearing started to go this early in my life, I may need to give up shooting. I'm glad that is not the case. That's all!

I'd like to clarify my original point in proposing getting a printer and making it yourself: If you're going to spend 200 bucks on a 3D printed feeder someone else made, you might as well just spend 300 on the real thing. But if you're interested in the prospect of 3D printed accessories for reloading etc, that 200 would be much better spent on getting a printer yourself.

Same here, my printer has paid for itself over and over. Ender 3 is a great one to start with, probably wouldn't recommend anything else for someone getting into the community based on the support available for the Ender and price point. Sure there are other options, but you cant go wrong with the ender.

To the point about issues with 3D printed parts, a Mr. Bullet feeder and Dillon case feeder set up will run you about 800 on the low end. For my fellow budget minded friends, I'll take the trade off of having to do a little tinkering any day. On top of that, buying something that someone else printed is a weird in-between that doesn't make much sense to me. I get it for niche parts that you only need one of, but the benefit to a 3D printed case feeder for example is being able to make it for 50 bucks, and have the ability to adjust, enhance, and make replacement parts on the fly. A lot of accessories these companies sell to you for 30 bucks can be printed for literal cents. Obviously there are limitations, I won't go printing a "strong mount" anytime soon but there are plenty of other justifications for investing in a printer. With that said it's certainly not for everyone.

Thank you!

I really should be able to find a clear answer on this but I cant. Which size fiber optic rod do I need for my TSO front sight?

The real answer imho is to spend 175 dollars on a 3D printer. Case feeders cost 50 bucks to make. I know that guy has to make a profit and all that but they are very, very cheap to produce yourself. You can buy a printer and make a case feeder + bullet feeder for the price of a Dillon case feeder. I just finished putting together my 3d printed case feeder last night. The thing looks extremely "clean". Functions incredibly well. There are a few community projects going on for these things, I used the "homefree bullet feeder". The files come with a user manual that walks you through exactly what you need to do to get it up and running. There is a very small learning curve to getting into 3D printing but the possibilities are nearly endless in a hobby like this one. Just my 2 cents, I'm happy to answer any questions you may have about this option.

Very nice build! Would love to see how it handles 9 major. What barrel?

Maybe commissioned? It's very well done for something homemade..

The correct answer has already been said, if it continues to bother you for more than a few weeks consult a physician for a possible PT referral. That being said, many shooters experience tendonitis from overtraining. I'm not saying thats what it is, but If you're doing a lot of live fire, dry fire, or weight training etc you may causing irritation there. If thats the case, chill out for a while and see if you get any improvement.

You literally cannot beat their holsters for 35 bucks. I've owned a few bladetechs and functionally they're just as good as the ones that cost twice as much.

Glockstore QC and customer service is terrible. Dont buy any of their stuff. That said, the black yikes connector works as advertised. Lightens the trigger pull and makes it a "rolling break". I have one in in my G34 with a 4.5 pound striker spring and polished trigger. Easy way to make a glock trigger serviceable for like 35 bucks. You can do better, you can do worse.

Welcome to the forum! I promise you, after browsing and leaning here you'll want to try it out. There is a great wealth of knowledge here regardless of your level of participation in the shooting sports, enjoy.

When I bought my TSO (used), it came with this extended slide stop/ slide release piece. For the life of me I cant find it anywhere online and I cant find any other information about it. It extends rearward to make it easier to send the slide home after slide lock with your firing thumb. I don't use it since I run the pins rather than the slide release but I'm curious as to what it is. Here are some pics, thanks in advance! On the gun:

My point is though that I'm not sure there is any "execution". In a match you shouldn't shoot any faster or slower than your ability to see what you need to see. Again, that's just my understanding.

Maybe.. but your mindset should never really be "speed up" or "slow down" based on a stage, right? I think the people who excel in this sport are the ones who always "see what they need to see" in order to make acceptable hits on target, and can do that quickly regardless of what the hit factor math on a stage is. Maybe I am misinterpreting though.

Let us know how it turns out!

Currently using the lightest spring that was included with the TSO (11 pounds I believe) and the thick buffer. My loads are also at 173 and I can confirm that recoil impulse is much better with the lighter spring, return to zero is much better as well. I was getting some muzzle dip with the heavier spring (gotta remember they come from the factory ready to run factory ammo with a PF of more like 200), switching to the lighter eliminated that completely. Try out the lighter ones and see what you think, your brass will be landing 3 bays over just FYI.

Yep, you seem to always get what you pay for. If someone ever comes along with a cheap solution be sure to let the rest of us know!

Weird, just had a conversation with a shooting buddy about this not long ago. Apparently they are few and far between and the ones that are available are expensive. There are some 3D models floating around out there, maybe someone will come along and pick up the slack.