gans

No, I just free hand it. A rotating jig would be good for a standard 1911, but I don't think it would work very well on a Para frame and some 1911 copies that have different contours. So, I just feed it by hand.

It would be great to see some pictures of that process. Do you do them often? Here are some pics of the lay up.

Thanks, Gary.

A few more.

There is a compensated barrel for sale at www.gunbroker.com, item #61014038, if you can find someone to instll it.

After not being able to get Schuemann barrels in a timely manner, I contacted KKM to have them make me custom barrels. I use standard diameter for coned comps and 1-32 twist for less torque. The last 2 pistols grouped 3/8" at 50' off of sandbags. A ransom rest should make that even better. I would think that the bull barrel would be just as good. I also like the locking lugs having a high point in the middle. It give more contact and easier to work on.

The smith at S_I is correct. Since the trigger floats, you have takeup in it to keep it away from the sear when the slide slams forward. If you are snapping the trigger and releasing it partially before the slide finishes cycling, you will not have enough of takeup and the hammer can follow.

Excessive pressure will leave a ring from the base of the bullet. You can try some lighter loads to see if the problem goes away. If it does, you can go from there.

So you want a rocket to fly backwards? Just kidding. How would the barrel link down?

I believe that a large portion of the gasses escape during the first port or two (depending on the acutal port sizes) and most designs attempt to keep the flow velocity up at the subsequent ports. To accomplish this they reduce the size of the ports to keep the flow velocity up despite the decreased pressure/volume of gas they have to work with. Some designs throw in a huge final chamber to get rid of whatever gasses might remain before they exit the muzzle hole. Good description of a current popular open gun design. This is usually based on the progressive style of comp where the ports get small. Some have asked, what do you do with the left over gas? You just described it. Make the final port/ports bigger. Small bleeders can be machined into the sides of those ports also, this makes it a combination port and bleeder. This offers the most compact and lightest setup. Also, large bleeders can be added onto the end, but they generally add weight.

Just wondering if you have any thoughts on the use of bleeders on pistol comps.

Lets narrow things down to a 38 super shooting major, as other calibers and power factor would be different.-----I believe that the first port should be on the large size as previously stated. The remaining ports should be medium to large in size. There is plenty of gas left to do some work. How many more ports depends on other factors like weight of slide and comp/barrel set up.-----Some shooters want less recoil so they opt for some bleeders rather than all ports. They sacrafice some flip for less recoil.-----Some shooters like big comps and light slides and see the dot drop, come up then back down onto target. Others just want the dot to flip a bit.-----One must remember that the comp only works in the beginning when it is under pressure. Once the pressure subsides, the slide cycles and the comp is only dead weight. The slide cycling agains the recoil spring will cause some flip, the comp can not do much at the point.-----Hope this isn't too general. If so, ask more.

I see that the discussion has been narrowed down to pistol compensators. I have not seen any definition, rule or formula on chamber volume though. EricW may be correct so far. I don't have one to offer either. I don't know that one exists because of the variables.------I agree with the basic theory of how a comp works, that R.P. submitted.------That is just the beginning as the design of a comp is different for a pistol used for Pinshooting from that of an open gun or a steel gun.------Also, the design of the ports can be varied to get different results. Bleeders and smaller ports to get more baffles for a decrease in recoil.------Different designs for different calibers and different power factors.------Oh, so much more.

What do you want to know?

Maybe you are not looking enough???? No. Between all the random variations with what the market has to offer and this thread (billski excluded), I stand by my original statement. There's a difference between what works, and the optimum solution. One involves hunting and pecking. The other involves understanding the objective and the underlying mechanics and mathematics. Still waiting... With all due respect, maybe there isn't one rule or formula that works for all compensators. There are too many variables as I alluded to in my first reply. Remember, the question was about rifle and pistol compensators. Maybe we should narrow down the original question a bit and go from there.

I have installed quite a few Ed Brown barrels and have not had any problems with them. There should not be any accuracy difference between either style. As stated, the bull will give you more weight up front if that is what you want.

I believe that most of the energy generated to cycle the slide takes place within about the first 1/8" of the slide cycling. About 20 years ago, I was doing repair work for a S&W Distributor. It seems that S&W was plating the feed ramps of their barrels and got some in the chamber that left a jagged edge. The fired round would get stuck and only make it out of the chamber about 1/16"-1/8". There was enough of pressure exerted by the casing in that short of distance for the extractor to rip part of the rim off and to cycle the slide fully and pick up a round.

adding more powder doesn't bother me, actually I heard a guy tell me to load the rounds hotter to effectively work the comp, don't know how true this is. I just want to know if adding blow holes will keep the gun flatter. The gun shoots sorda flat, but if I can get it flatter I will. I notice that most of the GM shooters have at least a couple of holes in the barrel. It seems to me that if the gasses are being pushed out of the barrel more towards the center axis of the weapon, that it would stabalize it more. I guess correct me if I am wrong. PK Actually, your hand will rise a little. The barrel ports are closer to your hand and will hold it down a bit. Don't expect a lot from a couple of barrel ports though.

no I don't plan on pulling out the ol craftsman drill for a project like this. Of course I would send it to a smith who has delt with this before. I can only imagine what the underside of a slide would look like if those slide holes were not placed properly. I have seen blast sheilds that look like someone took a chisel to it. So you would reccomend an oval shape cut or slot cut on the slide to ensure that the gases are being released into the air instead of under the slide? I guess that could also act as slide lightning to, although thats not my intent. does anyone have a pic or can take a picture of how thi is supposed to look like Thanks PK This is one way. I would recommend a blast shield, and yes it will get hammered.

Doesn't sell prebuilt guns. Only customer supplied parts used.

Do you want to buy a prebuilt gun or do you have the parts and want to build a custom gun? If you have the parts, it can be built in around 3 weeks.

Agree with cking. Peened rails will not last long if shooting a lot. Welding the rails would last a bit longer if you don't care about the appearance of the welds, but it costs more. Going to Accu-rails would last even longer if you don't care about dealing with the rails, but that cost more also. Or you could build a custom guns and get that smooth tight fit like jwing wanted in the first place. Son of a gun, sounds like you get what you pay for.

It would be great to see some pictures of that process. Do you do them often? I will try and remember to take some photos the next time I do a job. It isn't as popular these days as the classy skate board tape rules.