ezra650

I'm in the same boat. In fact outer limits is currently 1 of only 2 stages I've shot over 100% in RFPO. If I win a steel match I don't want it to be because I scurried between two boxes faster. I want to win based on shooting speed and accuracy. I do agree it looks a little lame when shot from one position. Plate placement could be modified. Maybe move the 12" plates closer and leave the stop at 18yd to create a distance change up... I don't know, but it would be nice for a change. I'm about to post some info regarding a conversation I had with Mike Valentine over the web about steel challenge changes.... or is that not allowed on the enos forum??

I'd also like to see this change and I believe most steel competitors would as well. Steel challenge is about fast and accurate. If we wanted to get our cardio in we would go shoot a USPSA match lololol. I wonder what if any changes will be made in regards to steel challenge with the presidential election coming up?? Any insight Zack? The only one I know of running besides Foley is Valentine.

+1 ZZT said it before I could. Un-parallel frame holes are not fun. Why do you think so many smaller shops are starting to make their own in house frames??? Especially with the cost of STI's now. STI no longer is primarily aiming their market toward the competition shooters. They are selling more guns to people who prefer to take pictures of their guns instead of shoot them and selling to tactical timmys.

My main takeaway of why I'm primarily shooting steel now and have uspsa on the back burner after shooting it for 3yrs+ is steel is less tolling mentally and physically. No stress, no remembering stage plans. I mean sure I wrestled with plate order at first, but even that is not stressful with 5 targets. Also I believe steel challenge is shooting in it's purest form and is more difficult from a shooting standpoint. It's fast, it's fun, it's simple, and it can be very challenging. Also the scoring metrics are much easier to track and set goals and compete against shooters sport wide. Also getting done at 1 or 2pm is pretty sweet and I got to shoot 2 guns. Stage scoring/reset is also very simple and fast. My same feelings apply about action steel although I have shot very little of it. Typically the stages require a little planning. I mainly prefer SC due to the scoring metrics and support across the member base. I don't really go to compete against local shooters. I go to compete against myself and the times put up by the top 10 shooters at LVL3 matches. If I had all 8 stages setup at home I'd wager that I'd spend more time there than at lvl 1 matches. I'm about to dip my toes into USPSA again, but I'm not leaving SC anytime soon.

Nice build! I wish VQ sold their Mk4 sear without the kit like they did/do for Mk3 sears. I picked up a mk 4 lite for my woman to shoot at steel challenge and it already had a mk3 sear in it. The trigger was terribly heavy (3-4lbs~). I stoned and polished the factory sear and the trigger is better now. Still may just bite the bullet and get the kit from Tandemkross without the trigger included. My gun already has a VQ trigger in it. The fact you got a 1.5lb trigger with the kit tempts me to buy it. After all my tinkering with this MK4 I have found I prefer the Mk3 22/45s. MK4 Pros: Easy Field Strip, slingshot bolt from the factory, sear spring cutout in grip makes full strip reassembly easier Cons: Loose upper and lower fit, heavy sear spring, heavy mainspring? could be newness, more difficult to reassemble hammer back in frame due to blind hammer strut alignment, 2 piece safety plate creates additional part. Also there is no LCI on the MK4 which I actually like, but an easy fix on the mk 3 is to simply remove it. I wish Ruger still made 22/45 Mk 3 Lites. I looked for one on the used market, but the negligible price difference made the mk4 a winner for the deal I found on a used one with upgrades included. I would never buy a stock mk4 new at retail price. Honestly, anyone who ever thought the mk3 field strip was overly complicated might need to reevaluate their firearm abilities and if they should be handling them. Ruger could have at least taken this opportunity on the mk4 to improve the trigger with a pre and over travel screw and a polished sear/hammer. The Mk4s sell for $450 new, they should sell for $350 new. When and if my mk3 bites the dust either through a worn bore or frame I'll be building/buying a VQ pistol for steel challenge. My MK3 will have me to GM soon!

I use the same sear. How can you tell when it needs replacing? Hammer follow? I know several people who have dropped in the brazos kit and with a little or no sear spring adjustment been ready to go. YMMV

Yeah I'm referencing to shooters before the match starts who don't know what's going on. These guys should have been grouped with some veteran shooters and RO/CROs. They probably also didn't want to admit they were new shooters to USPSA "muh military training" So their ego took priority lol.

Yep. Gives off the "I just shot one GSSF match with my new glock and now I am here to go fast" look. Seriously though nothing a new shooters briefing can't handle and maybe some additional Q&A and 1 on 1 assistance. Everyone has to start somewhere.

Nice! I'm also in the process of building a 10/22. Instead of spending $500 on the lite I picked up a 10/22 used on the local private market for $150 Here is my build wish list: Axiom Blackhawk Stock: $70 Volquartsen Carbon Fiber Barrel: $270 CMORE and allchin mount: I'll have $180 in this setup Kidd Trigger: $200 Total: $870 I plan to shoot the gun with the stock barrel for some time. The barrel will be the last upgrade. The above build list with a BX trigger/housing weighs in at 3lbs and 10oz total gun weight. If you aren't crazy about upgrading and shaving gun weight then the Target Lite is a good option and one I almost took. A friend of mine got one, but now he has the VQ barrel installed anyway haha.

Sounds like a failure on the MD to group 1 or 2 seasoned RO/CROs in the newbie squad. Haha the locked back slides at beginning of a match are always an easy way to pick out USPSA newbs. I believe GSSF did/does stipulate that guns be at slide lock when holstered

CMORE is the brightest and most affordable. Also you can switch dot size if your preferences change. I've been shooting an 8moa and recently have wanted to experiment with a 12moa. Also they are hardy/reliable. Also they support the sport by sponsorship more than any other optic manufacturer, except maybe Sig. What kind of gun are you using? My advice. Get the CMORE and an allchin mount if they have one that will fit your gun. That's what I have ran for 3 years on my 22/45. Only issue is sometimes the gun gets hot and oil over time will cause the tiny screws on the mount to work loose. Gobs of blue loctite helps. Edit: Welcome to SC! It's addictive and some of the most challenging shooting in my opinion. Have fun.

Sent my CMORE off for a rebody. Turnaround time was exactly a month. 5/6 to 6/6. Cost was $55 for the rebody and $12 for shipping. So you are looking at $67 for a rebody. They did a great job and gave me some cleaning tips when I called to ask about it. Sight looks great and I'm ready to start shooting. Next time I send one off I'll wait 5 weeks before giving them a call. The website says 2-4 weeks, but the tech I spoke with said they have been busy since SHOT show. I'd imagine the turnaround gets quicker in the fall/winter.

I shoot 2011, 1911, and a 22/45. So all 1911 grip angle. I used to compete and carry glocks. When I wrote off glocks for competition I found that while I still could shoot them proficiently it always took me a few draws to instinctively find the natural angle to find the correct sight picture with the glock. So I sold all my glocks and now I carry a S&W shield in 9mm with no safety. I love it. It was $288 brand new out the door and it works. Also closer grip angle to my competition guns.

If I don't make A right away I'll be a little sad. I was on the cusp of A class in limited 2yrs ago and life took over and I haven't competed in USPSA seriously since. All thats left now is a little mag tuning and load development.

That is correct. Unfortunately there was not a position that was comfortable for my thumb and also allowed take down. The optic mount got red loctite and the thumbrest got blue. I want to try an akai rest in person. It might work for me and allow normal takedown.

Here it is. It's an old tripp research frame from 1992. Marked GUNRACER238 where the SN would go. Actual SN is under the slide stop. Top end is a new 9mm setup fitted by a smith in North Carolina. STI slide ( weighs in at 11oz) with racker and KKM barrel with EGW cone comp. If it runs and I stick with open 2011s I will have it ceracoated. Right now it wears flat black engine enamel externally to keep away rust O_o Mainly using it to dip my toes into open for uspsa and to get started in open for steel challenge. A single stack open gun may be in my future for that game. It aint much, but it's mine. Wish me luck. This is my 2nd 2011 and I believe I have all the kinks worked out on it.

Safety is fitted. Had to remove a considerable amount of grip material. The most time spent was sanding down the back of the safety, because of how low it swoops the back sticks out of the frame causing an uneven surface in the beavertail area. I'm very pleased with the thumb position. My grip is much more natural and comfortable now and I can reach the trigger comfortably at all times. I'm wishing now that it was an ambi safety for one reason. When shooting weak(left) hand the knuckle on my trigger finger can bump the safety up if I'm not careful. I think a stronger safety plunger/spring would help this. Mine is pretty wore out. Also it didn't take much lug filing for the safety to fit the litespeed sear I have installed. Thanks all for the input and advice.

I was thinking that would be the easiest option, but for under $100 I'm not sure I would trust ones durability to remain outside in the weather. I have no need to take it down after shooting. Nice for a match but I want something larger that I can put up and never worry about. The idea about a used carport was good.

I've been thinking about options for shade on the home range. The canopies seem nice, but some seem overpriced for the quality. Also 1 person setup would be ideal, and the main goal is to have something that can stay up year round. The canopies don't fall into either category it seems. I was looking at large patio umbrellas. Home depot sells one that is held in place with a sandbag. Seems promising. What is everyone using to stay out of the sun and stay cool this summer on the range?

Yeah, but screw the NFA.

Hi-tek is one of my least favorite coatings. It's too smokey. It has a nice scent to it which I actually kind of enjoy. But way too smokey. The bullets I bought coated in it shot clean and accurate. But after 3 shots if the amount of smoke in front of your eyes breaks your subconscious... they are too smokey. I'll have to check out King Richards. Id like to shoot my own PC cast bullets but for the cost of 115gr it's worth buying them since I don't have the time to cast nor a 115gr mold.

This is the comment of the day. Gave me a good chuckle. I wish we could run pistol braces. A 10 or 12" PCC would be awesome. Especially in steel challenge. But I see the reasons why they are not allowed.

Does anyone know if CMORE will swap your diode for a reduced price while having it fixed? Was wanting to upgrade mine to a 12moa for steel. This week is the 4th week they have had it. No word yet, but was thinking about calling them this week.

I found a couple options at $5 per foot, but that requires buying a 24' stick. https://www.metalsdepot.com/steel-products/steel-rectangle-tube So if you do local pickup on your own it could be around $200. I like the idea of burying them. I just finished building 5 steel target stands. For now I'll just lug them to each spot. Perhaps I'll upgrade in a few years.

That's a great idea, but for all 8 stages that would be cost prohibitive as an individual. Rectangular hot roll steel is $25 per foot. A cheaper way could be PVC drain pipe and the 2x4 could be wedged into it.