HesedTech

Maybe a dumb question, why do you want to make a heavy gun even more heavy? I have been shooting Tanfos for about 6 years and currently the Stock Master (Stock 3) in CO. The recoil is very light and I found my grip is the biggest factor in control. To be honest, I've timed my draws to 1st shot and my lighter Limited Pro (IDPA legal) is actually consistently faster, but does carry a bit more recoil. Of course a light does have a cool factor.

It's the bottom where the primer tube attaches and is then bolted to the plate. What you are seeing is a view with the tube assembly removed from the press and looking into the channel where the primer bar runs. The metal isn't the hardest and on both my 550s it deforms after a few too many tightening sequencings. Thus a bulge is created and causes the bar to hang up.

Yep, same issue with two 550 primer feed systems. The answer is really simple and requires a file and a little bit of work. The assembly the primer bar rides back and forth bulges around the holes that hold the assembly to the press. Simple dismantle the assemble file and smooth the sides down until the channel is flat on both sides. Reassemble and it runs back and forth with out any binding. Here's an old thread on the subject: I do have an aftermarket plate with a support bearing under the assembly to help with long term wear.

Yes that’s true, however you can glean what you need from the list. The shell plate and button pins cover multiple calibers so the issues is the right powder funnel for the 6.5 cartridge. The case feed adapter and plunger for 308 you have should be fine, the bass is essentially the same length and same shell plate. Besides your dies you pretty much have it covered. Give it a run. I did notice Dillon is not making it easy to find the compatibility charts anymore on their web site.

Check here: https://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/caliberconversioncharts/Super_1050_Caliber_Conversion_Chart.pdf https://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/caliberconversioncharts/450_and_550_Series_Caliber_Conversion_Charts.pdf The two should give you the info.

Just so you know I use a 550 with floating dies and a locked tool head, but I do not powder drop the precision stuff with the Dillon powder measure. After sizing and cleaning I chamfer the brass for 223/5.56 and use a NOE plug to final the necks for bullet tension. It’s all about the desired amount of time and effort to assure reliable and desired consistency of each round. Each of us has a process.. If you all want a good video about using a 550 or 650 for precision loading check out F Class John on you tube. These days I don’t think Tubbs uses just a Dillon for precision rifle any more. Go to his web site and you’ll see what he uses now. Pretty high end stuff, precision dies .

While I dabble in long range rifle (308 win and 6.5 Creedmore), my main sport is USPSA pistol. However, in our area we have a State tactical rifle series, which is a combo of close shooting like USPSA and various accuracy stages with shots out to 400 yards (I use an un-magnified dot BTW) and like USPSA, time is part of the scoring. For the 200+ yard shots I found eliminating the ammo factor with very accurate and consistent ammo, allowed me to solely focus on positions, sight picture, wind, and trigger pull as the only variables. To make such accurate and predictable ammo we go to the whole precision rifle thing, including trickling the powder, in loading, but only for those stages requiring such. The close, inside 100 yard, stuff is run with cheap 55 grain bullets and a Dillon powder drop. It frankly doesn’t matter what the SD is or MOA are, as long as it lands in the A zone or hits an 8” plate. I apologize for being sarcastic and I was wrong, but when a person wants accuracy beyond adequate, we both well know the process gets more detailed. Thank you for your reply.

Ok Chills you win! After posting about your 3-4” accuracy, showing your hits (I assume 100 yard accuracy) with H335 then, and in-spite of all the precision rifle competitors and endless discussions across the internet about powder droppers verses trickle measure, the use of stick powders verses fine grain ball, you win. A drop powder measure is just as accurate as a trickle measure with a quality scale. It’s a hobby and a sport participate in what ever way brings the most joy to you.

For better accuracy, even with non-matched brass, use a charge master or equivalent for accurate charges. The Dillon powder drop just isn’t up to par for match grade production.

Reloading 223/5.56 is no different than what you have already experienced with 6.5. However, unlike pistol I found to prevent case failure it is a must to inspect all the cases for signs of overuse/pressure. The best way is to look for a line up from the base; F Class John has a great video on what to look for. Also I can assure you I have found cases near failure and had one fail during resizing, what a pain to remove from the die. How often can we reload 223/5.56? If you're diligent in inspections then as often as they pass muster.

Like everyone has said the FW auto centering is the best for depriming all brass. As far as resizing 9mm the Dillon 9mm does a perfect job and is slightly undersized to keep neck tension. I personally 2 pass, deprime, resize, wet tumble without ss pins, and then dry in old food dryer. Works great.

This web site is your friend, and answers your questions: https://www.dillonprecision.com/xl750-product-videos.html

You've probably already gone and found something, but for those who want something already cut Talon Grips makes a really good product. https://talongungrips.com/gun-grips/pistol-grips/cz-usa/

I'm not sure why you didn't like the sarge's post. If one wants to be a GM and run field courses well, 1.5" 50 yard groups really aren't the issue. The skills to draw, reload, plan, visualize, splits, transitions and execute all the above is crucial. However, normally one who can do all those also can shoot very accurate groups. My opinion is learn how to reload ammo that runs in your gun and is reasonably accurate and then go and practice the rest. And Enos could do the rest because he practiced them.

You can expect to have fun and become better with your gun than most people who think they’re good at shooting.

Personally I would only shoot off a rest to get the dot fine "tuned" at your chosen distance for zero (15 or 20 yards). Then Shoot the gun freestyle and find out how you actually shoot the gun, remember we never shoot from a rest in competition. Finally you have to know what the offset is at different distances. If you're mounting the dot on a dove tail mount and it sits high on the slide the POI at close targets will be lower, and it can be as much as a couple of inches. The point is this, zero at your preferred distance and then figure out point of impact at the various distances you shoot at. Finding zero is just a small part of the process. Probably too much info. The main point is have fun.

I polish my powder funnels with a buffing wheel. Two reasons, helps not stick in brass, second no static cling. I have to ask this, how is your brass lubed and with what product? For one pass reloading I would only use One Shot, a very clean and non-transferring product. If you are using the common lanolin lubes then you are probably leaving some on the funnel and it’s picking up some of the powder.

Agreed

Sarge, Which leads to the question, is a 1/2 cocked gun which is not a de-cocker considered “hammer not fully forward” and therefore it is back and requires the safety to be on when holstered and ready to start? This is what needs to be clarified and therefore close the opinion gap.

Okay, we disagree. Until there’s a clear ruling from the home office as an RO I will stop a shooter with a non de-cocker gun who holsters it in the half cocked position. The rule is clear and defines the type of guns, those with and those without a de-cocker. To decide there is something in between is personal opinion. “Manually decocking to half cock is not allowed and will be moved to open division.” Open Division rule covered by 8.1.2.1 “hammer cocked and safety engaged.” If the competitor is moved to open ALL the rules for Open apply, including safety engaged . The rules are quite clear and there isn’t any In between land. Why is this so difficult and why would anyone want to compromise the rule and safety?

Correct, but the controversy is a gun without a de-cocker being placed in half-cock. It is not the same thing. A DA-SA gun without a de-cocker must have hammer fully down, period. If the shooter want to half-cock it then safety must be on like other divisions and the shooter gets bumped to Open. I think we are all saying the same thing.

I have only run a Beretta 92 once and the "safety-decocking lever" is not a the same as on the Tanfoglio or CZ, it allows the user to decock and put the hammer in a safe position. The question you should discuss is this, is the hammer fully down and or in a de-cocked position? According to the rules, at least to me, both of these are the same, "hammer fully down or de-cocked.” Neither requires the "safety" being engaged. As always this forum is for discussion only and rather than DQing the shooter get a ruling from the RM or whoever the match official is. I believe the rules do not state the safety has to be engaged when "de-cocked." However, the original question was "half-cocked," (which we tend to go off on) and yes in my opinion the safety would have to be engaged because the hammer is neither fully down nor decocked.

According to the rules, no. However, "decocked" has to be defined as the hammer fully forward as stated in the rules. If you mean a gun with a decocker instead of a "safety" then the answer is still no. And unless you have forgotten, at the end of the shooter's run the gun is unloaded, hammer forward and holstered without the safety on. I have guns which will allow the safety to be engaged with the hammer fully forward, "decocked" and others which can't be, however the rule remains the same; the safety is not required to be engaged when the hammer is fully forward. Hope that answers the speculation. Me thinks you are trying to find an exception to the rule book. As always the final answer is the RO is the Captain and holder of safety. If they see or feel something is possibly unsafe or questionable then stop the shooter, unload, show safe and call the RM for an interpretation.

I went back and read the rules, I’m an RO and have been so for a few years. I will admit there’s always something I may have missed, like what it means to start “fully outside the shooting area,” but I believe this to be true about “Make Ready” and preparing a DA action pistol. As an RO it is my understanding and obligation to observe for safety reasons, that a competitor may do whatever is necessary to prepare his or her gun for competition. With the DA gun this means before the gun is holstered and the “Are you ready” command is accepted, the gun is prepared with the “chamber loaded, hammer fully down or de-cocked.” As an RO this means to me the competitor may in the preparation safely take whatever steps or techniques are necessary to complete this. Should the gun’s hammer stop at 1/2 cock and the competitor notices and corrects this condition there should not be any penalties. The question of this poster, in my opinion, is not a violation of the special conditions rule,1 or 2, and would be considered part of the “manual” process of lowering the hammer. The rule(s) implies a 1/2 cocked gun is intentionally holstered in that condition. However, should the gun be holstered in 1/2 cock and without the safety on the rule 10.5.11.2 may apply and the competitor DQd for unsafe gun handling. The obvious answer is for the RO to pay close attention to the make ready process of the competitor and be knowledgeable about the USPSA rules. Of course maybe someone else has a better resource and example for this situation, I’m always open to learning more and being a safer RO.

I have loaded 10s of thousands of 9mm rounds and run multiple Tanfoglios (9mm and 40sw) and have never had a bent ejector. I don't even have any major wear marks on them. I highly doubt the issue is your ammo, that is unless your chrono is way off. BTW using the primer flattening on a pistol is a really unreliable method to check for over pressures. Rifle ammo is a whole other issue. To bend the ejector takes a massive hit by something and neither minor or major PFs will do that in a Tanfoglio. I've run recoil springs from 6 -12 lbs, and even cut down with zero issues to the ejector. Remember the role of the ejector is to push the brass away from the slide as it cycles back. A piece of brass stuck in the slide face should be obvious and create cycling issues. I have to point out I have had to clean up the extractor on one Tanfoglio I have. However the issue wasn't bent or broken anything it was the feed of the next round. Occasionally a round would not slide up and under the extractor causing a jam. Just a slight touch of file and polish fixed it. Tanfoglios aren't always the most refined machined pistol out there. The cracked barrel could be from over pressured ammo, but I would suspect you would have a case failure in addition to the failed barrel. Metal fatigue could be part of the problem with the barrel. I would suggest you run factory ammo in the TF and get a friend with experience to chrono your ammo. When trying to solve an issue remember to always go back to where things worked and then only make one change at a time. I have to throw this out, check your mags and their seating. While unlikely in a Tanfoglio, it has been known in other brands of pistols (1911) that after market mags stick up too high and bend the ejector. Just a thought. Good luck on this one.